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Old 04-03-2007, 10:25 AM   #196
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Basement Renovation Question


Looks really good.



Who said bathroom renovating isn't exciting?


Last edited by AtlanticWBConst.; 04-17-2007 at 06:56 PM.
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Old 04-17-2007, 09:04 AM   #197
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I have done most of the laminate flooring on the basement. There are somthing to share:

- while it looks good, but laminate flooring still very different from hardwood flooring experience, one problem with it is it floats, so there are some spots which really has a floating feel(bouncing), this probably be able to be fixed by putting concrete mix below the underlayment before laying... but I doubt in reality, anyone can 100% eliminate these spots as there will always be some spots cannot be detected... when doing the leveling excerise, although I skip this step... but I doubt I can eliminate all floating spots... from the experience of my sisters' condo and my father's condo which installed by contractor, laminate flooring always has some floating spots (which bouncing a bit)... I wounder even professional can 100% eliminate these few bouncing spots completely, I heard my coworkers say they put heavy furniture on the floor which will eliminate some of these spots...

- my kids love the floor though, they already running on it and have a lot of fun, driving their car..etc... For look and maintainability, it still better than carpet in my opinion

- if I do it again... I probably will do the annoying leveling exercise... but I won't bother for now...
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Old 04-17-2007, 01:49 PM   #198
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Hi There.

I am also about 60% done in my laminate flooring project for a 9x11 bedroom. It is kind of neat how everything has fallen into place it seems. The toughest part now is to stick my head into the closet to try to measure, cut and install those parts...

However, like you, I noticed a few spots are a bit more bouncy than others. However, it might have to do with the underpad? I went to Rona and found that the selection they had for underpad was greater than at Home Depot and the quality of the pad I bought was a lot more sturdy. The one I purchased is called "Comfort Walk" and it also provides a bit of R value insulation (works well for me as, the room I was doing is cold in the winter).

Anyways, the biggest problem I will likely have is getting the doorway to properly be cut and a nice entrance be framed...
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Old 04-17-2007, 02:51 PM   #199
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Thanks for the sharing, for 100 sq. feet area... you should finish pretty fast... My next challenge is the stair to basement.. I intend to lay hardwood on it... It is going to be fun... I got my table saw today...

anyhow... a friend suggest to put heavy rug on bouncy spot of laminate floor...
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Old 04-17-2007, 02:59 PM   #200
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Speaking of saws...

I kind of didn't want to spend several hundred on a table saw, so I basically have been using either my hand saw or jigsaw. However, I find that when I do use it, the laminate cuts are slightly chipped. In most cases, this doesn't matter because the cuts which are rough will be hidden under the baseboard/quarterround, but I am a bit afraid when any of these rough cuts will be 'exposed'

Any ideas or suggestions?

About laminate on stairs...man, that looks to be a challenge...I don't know how that would be done...?
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Old 04-17-2007, 03:10 PM   #201
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the best saw to cut is Miter saw/chop saw... the best saw to divide is either table saw or circular saw... and jigsaw is indispensible in various minor irregular cut....

anyhow... I got table saw because I intend to do more than just laying laminate floor... I intend to build some furnitures (like bar table) later on... after purchasing some plans from internet...

and I do not building laminate on stairs as I know that does not last... I am building Oak hard wood on the stairs... just got most of the materials today... the one kill me is the stair Nose... two steps of this guy cost the same of 20 sq. feet of Oak hardwood... and the 12 steps stair cost me about $500 in materials... Gee... didn't know it will be that expensive for a basement stair...
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Old 04-17-2007, 04:58 PM   #202
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Yes...it seems like the cost/work for the stairs is a challenge.

But when its done, I'm sure it will look nice.

I'm not that ambitious yet - I think I'd buy carpet for the stairs
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Old 04-19-2007, 08:38 AM   #203
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I spent 2,3 hours last night finish building the first step of my 12 steps stairs... what a adventure...

I am the first time user of both table saw and Porter Cable Finish nailer... both of these tools require some sort of brave to operate them in the beginning, especially the table saw, got to use it bare hand without guide. But it is this type of dangereous make this exercise more attractive/fun...

Anyhow, waked up at 6:00 am this morning, starting on this guy. didn't open the window at the basement, smoke alarm come off after doing a couple of table saw cut, use a big piece of sheet to circulate air hoping the alarm shut off. didn't work, find the chair and go up unplug the detector worring my wife coming down anytime holding the babies.....

anyhow... although a lot of work. the result is satisfactory and a lot of skills learned for using table saw... next time I wear a ear piece to make it less scarely...

1 down 11 to go, that should be faster as I learn the experience for the first one...

the Porter Cable cordless nailer is super, so cool...

anyhow, this is the link of how to lay hardwood on stairs:

http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/har...-measuring.htm
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Old 04-19-2007, 10:20 AM   #204
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Kui****g -

I suggest you learn a little more about table saw operation and set-up.
There are NEVER any cuts that should be made without some type of guide. The guide is either a miter gauge or a rip fence. There are a few cuts that, unfortunately, must be made without a blade guard. I suspect your stairs cuts may not be one of them.

As for the smoke detector. You should NOT be setting off a smoke detector. This tells me of a few possible problems.
1 - you have a dull blade or wrong blade or blade is installed incorrectly.
2 - your rip fence is not adjusted properly
3 - both

What kind of cut were you making with the table saw when the smoke detector went of? Rip or crosscut? What kind of table saw do you have?

be safe - Listen to your inner voice. If a cut seems unsafe it likely is. There are safe ways to make all cuts a table saw is designed to do. Learn what they are before you proceed.
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Old 04-19-2007, 10:30 AM   #205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brik View Post
be safe - Listen to your inner voice. If a cut seems unsafe it likely is. There are safe ways to make all cuts a table saw is designed to do. Learn what they are before you proceed.
Good safety advice...
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Old 04-19-2007, 11:55 AM   #206
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Safety is definitely an issue, but the wood dust in the air can be a contributor to triggering the smoke alarm.

Our smoke alarm can go off when a piece of toast has become 'well done' (not burnt).

I think if you were to setup the table saw in the garage (if possible), you would avoid the mess, dust particles and smoke from going off (including alarming the little family members of your house!).

I have found that when cutting the laminate floor planks in my current project, I measure and mark the cut spot and take the plank to the garage and do my cut. I know it is a pain and it is more time consuming to go back and forth, but I really don't want dust in the air inside the home!

If you can do that, it might be more helpful.

Be safe and successful in the project.
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Old 04-19-2007, 12:23 PM   #207
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Thanks for the advice for table saw, here is the situation,

I have craftsman 10 inch 3 amp table saw
When I use the guide, I find hard to made the wood not to deviate a little bit from the lean against guide.
Also some time the cut is not a 90 degree cut, it is easier to do free hand, and yes, I take off the protection shield as it let me see clear. and sometimes you only need to trim 1/8 of a inch or smaller, for that, do you still use guide?...

I do wear a safty glass though.

I will try to take your advice to use guide somehow... thanks...

as I am cutting Oak, pretty hard, there are black mark at the cut due to heat, that probably cause smoke, I think one reason is I didn't open the window which I do now...

Dust control is definitely an issue in renovation. but I probably won't go that far to run to garage.. you are talking about up and down a 12 steps stair... I probably should put some encloser plastic to protect the finished area though...

Last edited by KUIPORNG; 04-19-2007 at 12:53 PM.
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Old 04-19-2007, 12:51 PM   #208
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Yea, your saw is out of adjustment. A 3AMP say is very small. Sure its not a 3HP saw?

I cant give you specific advice for making adjustments on your particular saw. Go over to woodnet and ask if you do not have the manual for making the adjustments I describe. http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php (power tools section)

First, make sure the blade is exactly parallel to the miter slot. Second, make sure the rip fence is exactly parrallel to the blade and the miter slot.

It sounds like you are also making cross cuts. You never use the rip fence and the miter gauge at the same time. Your miter gauge is designed so you can set an angle if you need to. You can attach a longer piece of wood to it to make it easier to cross cut larger pieces.

To adjust the blade you may need to either loosen bolts on the table or adjust the "trunion" from below the table. To adjust the fence will be done on the fence itself but will vary depending on what fence you have.

Bottom line - You should never have any burning of wood when you cut and you should always have the wood supported on either the fence or miter gauge, not both.

Also, may I suggest you get this book
http://www.amazon.com/Table-Saw-Book.../dp/1561584266
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Old 04-19-2007, 12:57 PM   #209
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yes it is not 3amp, it is 3 HP... and thanks for all the advice... I do have a neighbour who is very good at wood working... after hearing from you... I probably do the easiest, invite him to my home to see if I need to tune and how to tune, may ask him how to use the table saw ...etc. I will also read those link when I have time...

Thanks a lot...


Also, I have a cheap chop saw, I found when it cut, it does not leave a perfect cut like the table saw, so I cross cut a bit more with the chop saw, then use the table saw to fine tune it....

Also, I think I did use the guide most of the time, the "rip fence ", I seldom use the "miter gauge" because when I use the "miter gauge" to push forward the wood, the wood do not go straight... so that is what I mean I use free hand... I try to use the "rip fence" most of the time though, only when I am triming I use nothing.... Does that sound better? I didn't know you don't use the "miter gauge" and the "rip fence" at the same time...


I just order the book, thanks again Brik...

Last edited by KUIPORNG; 04-19-2007 at 03:48 PM.
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Old 04-20-2007, 08:35 AM   #210
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This morning I used the tablesaw again with the precautions I didn't take as I learned somthing yesterday... This time the experience is much better. I did feel more safe when using the tool and feeling that I found the tool be so useful on various things... I wouldn't be surprise this tool is the "most important" tool when working with wood...

anyhow, what I did this morning to make it more safe is:

- lower the blade so that it kind of just enough to cut the material
- put on the protection shield in most cuts.
- wear my ear piece

I still need to use free hand without guide though when try to dividing a long piece of laminate... I don't think you can use any guide because it is too thin to reach the fence and too long to use the other guide... free hand is the only possible option and I don't think it is dangerous as it is so long and your hand is so far away from the blade....

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