Basement remodel planning - Guidance needed for framing around oddities

visim14

Hello,
I have just stared the initial planning stages for a basement remodel in the next year. Being a 1950s house that I assume was never designed to be finished I am finding a few oddities that I am struggling what to do with.

I have attached photos showing my first issues. The first two photos show the vent stack for the house, main drain pipe as well as the dryer vent that exits out the basement window.

I would like to put foam board on all the walls as a moisture barrier and to insulate and then frame on top however I can not figure how the framing would run around this window. The main drain pipe sits directly against the wall so I can't get the foam board behind it and it sits at the window bottom so I couldn't build a soffit. I can't drop the line down any further that I can see. How would one frame around this window as is and around that pipe in general (including the dryer vent? I will eventually be tying into this line for an added half bath along that wall as well.


In the third photo the problem is the pipe leading from the exterior of the home to the oil tank in the basement. Instead of coming directly out of the wall and then a 90 degree bend it comes directly off the wall and tapers to the tank, creating a very narrow angle. I am not sure how to get foam board behind there if I wanted to cover those walls as well. Does it make sense to leave this as a utility room without any wall insulation? I am afraid of putting foam board and framing on all the other walls in the basement and then the utility room being a vastly different temperature, possibly causing condensation on joining surfaces...


Thanks!
Neil

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oh'mike

First suggestion----get that dryer duct moved----can you punch through the rim joist where it starts? Short dryer ducts are best--

Next---if you are framing a wall and insulating that stud wall with fiberglass--there is very little gained by adding foam board to the foundation.

If you are careful---you can keep the lateral copper pipe right behind the drywall----gun blocking to the foundation and suspend the framing above and below the drain---

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visim14

Thanks. It may be difficult to go through at the joist, it may be into the brick of the house already at that point to vent outside. There is another window on the other side that may be a shorter distance however that would require me buying two new windows to replace my two newer windows. Guess if I had to I would.

Regarding the foam I was just going by building science's recommendations to stop moisture from developing between the wood studs and the concrete wall (which while they don't leak definitely will sweat). They recommend adding 2" xps to the walls and 1" to the floors, studs on top with non faced batts inside.

I'd probably have to see what you mean regarding the copper pipe. Its so tight to the wall and close to the window theres not a lot of room. I could build away from it once it passes the window but the window is such an odd setup.

I'm wondering if I should get a contractor in here to get input. I'd like to know in the beginning if I have to reroute pipes, etc.

oh'mike

Re routing pipes is seldom needed---

Brick is soft and easy to cut through---I'd do that before I used a window----

I'll leave the foam to others---I have never used it behind the framing.

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GBrackins

where are you located?

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Gary

"You get what you pay for, and sometimes free costs more!"