Basement remodel

Bks

Need some advice on a basement remodel. Due to recent water I have stripped off existing paneling. Found 1x2 furring strips with no insulation. Walls, strips and paneling looked fine. Small amt of efflor on the lower wall. I have sealed cracks, wall/floor joint and will be addressing a clogged foundation drain tile which all contributed to the damage. Question is since strips and walls look good after 25 years as is, can I hang mr drywall on them or should I foam board,stud wall then drywall. Thanks!

joecaption

There's well of 2000 post on this one subject, go up to search and check it out.
Really need to figure out all the moisture or water issues before doing anything.

Bks

I browsed the search responses and they confirm that best practice is to foam and frame. Just wondering if it would be reasonable to assume drywalling on the existing furring would hold up as well as the previous panelling. I'm struggling a bit with the time and expense of foam and frame since we have had no mold or wall moisture issues. The room is currently holding at 62 degrees and 43 percent humidity with no heat and a dehumidifier running. We are in Va so we get a little of everything weather wise. I don't want to create a moisture issue where one did not exist . My moisture testing has not shown any inward or outward condensation. Any input to help with this decision would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

joecaption

I would not do it. Drywall will soak up moisture like a sponge.

Gary in WA

Appears you are in Zone 4; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic..._11_par002.htm

Code required basement insulation is R-10----13 insulation, see footnote "c"; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic..._11_sec002.htm

You will be losing heating energy if the furnace/ducting is down there, without insulating. Any insulation will help save energy dollars: http://www.quadlock.com/technical_li...Insulation.pdf

Though in your milder climate, not as quick of a pay-back with the cost of foamboard. It will reduce any incoming moisture, stop outgoing moisture from condensing on the concrete, and slow the heat loss. Pretty much a win-win.. Using your average low temp of Jan., Feb., and Dec.http://virginia.stateguidesusa.com/a...-in-virginia?/, of 30*with 1/2" of foamboard (R-2.5 XPS) and R-13 in a frame wall, your relative humidity would be safe to 29% at grade, and 45% at six feet below grade at 70* room temp. With 1" (R-5) XPS= 34%RH at grade/50% below. As the frost line is only 10-20", depending on your location, this will change the condensation risk as well as the exposure time. http://www.soundfootings.com/pdf/US_...t_DepthAVG.pdf As far as foam or not, stop using the dehumidifier and monitor the RH, then you will know to use some or not. OTH ,with your earth/water temps closer to 50* than 60*(location), and high basement humidity, you may want some f.b.- if not just for peace of mind; knowing it can handle moisture going both ways to keep the cavity insulation dry at heat loss minimal.http://www.epa.gov/athens/learn2mode...enrys_map.html
The moisture won't show on the concrete if exposed to basement air as it dissipates away before forming. Poly on a section is good for only that localized area (incoming moisture), check in numerous locations/times of year.

Gary

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