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daphillenium 10-14-2011 02:38 PM

Basement Remodel
 
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Hey everyone. New to the forums here. I'm starting on finishing my basement soon. I've got child #4 on the way and have run out of room upstairs!

Im going to update this thread frequently with pics of progress.

I've already laid everyhing out on paper. First step is going to be putting ine two egress Windows for the 2 bedrooms going in. I've got one hole dug and working on the second! Next weekend is my date for cutting the holes and installing the Windows!

I'll be sure to include my mistakes and lessons learned!



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That's the first window spot. I'll be taking out that window and putting in a 48x48 sliding window.

oh'mike 10-14-2011 05:53 PM

Sounds like you thought this job out.

Digging the windows open is a lot of work---Are you hiring out the cutting? I've helped on a few of those cuts---the pros are amazingly accurate---

Keep us posted---Mike----

daphillenium 10-14-2011 08:06 PM

Yeah its been a long week! I'm actually going to have one of my friends who does concrete work make the cut for me.

Gary in WA 10-14-2011 08:51 PM

Be sure to double-up the rim joist (if acceptable for the added load) or even triple it, if the concrete to be removed is bearing any floor joists there. Stay away from the heavy concrete when breaking it out. Allow enough rough-opening for p.t on sill sealer jambs and sill plus the jamb/sill material.... permit for the paper trail.

Congrats on #4!

Gary

daphillenium 10-15-2011 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GBR in WA
Be sure to double-up the rim joist (if acceptable for the added load) or even triple it, if the concrete to be removed is bearing any floor joists there. Stay away from the heavy concrete when breaking it out. Allow enough rough-opening for p.t on sill sealer jambs and sill plus the jamb/sill material.... permit for the paper trail.

Congrats on #4!

Gary

Im putting the Windows on the exterior wall that's parallel to the joists. I won't need a header structurally, but to be the required height off floor for the bottom of the window I need to either build a header or some other way of filling in the

daphillenium 10-15-2011 03:45 PM

(Cont.) filling on the void left from where I took the original window out. Then on the other window I'm putting in there was no window there first. Therefore my cut won't be to the top of the foundation wall. It's on the same exterior wall as the other window so I'd like them to match. I'll have to think of a way to do that. Any ideas?

Gary in WA 10-17-2011 04:00 PM

I need a picture or two, I'm old. A single rim joist isn't enough support for multiple floors above it, you may still need a header, just smaller.....

Gary

daphillenium 10-17-2011 04:25 PM

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It's single story house with a 48x48 slider window. I talked to an architect that said I wouldn't need a header. I just finished digging today!

The first pic is the window that's coming out when I cut and there will be 8 inches between my pressure treated frame and the rim joists.



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The second is the one where I will simply make a top cut 8 inches below the rim joists for that new windows frame.

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I'll make a box with wood to sit above the first windows gap and fill it with insulation. I just wonder how to finish it on the exterior to make them match to hide the wood.

Gary in WA 10-17-2011 10:39 PM

Use p.t. wood for the rough frame over sill sealer for a thermal/capillary/air break to the concrete block. Add your trim wood, window and any flex flashing. Slope the trim wood under the window for water run-off. No fiberglass insulation (air permeable) for gaps inside, use non-expanding foam. Caulking on backer rod at outside gaps.
Sounds like you already are aware of egress codes- for others reading: http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=...33otStRi7Aff7g

We can move this thread to "Project showcase" for you, if it is on-going.....

Gary

daphillenium 10-20-2011 09:06 PM

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Well I got the first hole cut. I used an electric concrete saw with diamond blade. 12 inch saw.
Lessons learned- electric saw tripped the breaker few times but cut through Luke butter. I would have liked a. 14 inch saw, but the 12 worked ok.

I had my first oops though. Before I cut the windows I checked for rebar on the sill. Well there was one there I missed. It was receseed in the sill, not protruding up so I missed it. I already cut through the bottom of it. It wouldn't be a problem to cut it out right? Thanks!


You can see it in the picture there. MAKE SURE YOU CHECK FOR REBAR!

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daphillenium 10-21-2011 09:57 PM

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Alright. Got window #1 in! Took about 4 hours to frame and seal with dap foam. I used the great stuff window foam first. Stay away from that stuff. Makes a mess and still expands too much. I've got to finish the brick mould and exterior trim with silicone on Sunday. Have a few more tapcons on the inside to do as well.


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There she be.



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You can see the box above window I had to make to keep the bottom 44 inches off floor. I had to make it wider because one block op top broke.

Now to repeat for the other window!

daphillenium 10-29-2011 11:17 PM

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Ok, well I put the second window in today. This time I rented a gas powered saw instead of electric. It was a 16 inch compared to the 12 inch electric saw I used for the first window. The gas saw was heavier, but took half the time. Plus no tripped breakers!

Now all I have to do is finish the extrior trim tomorrow and put the wells in. Then it will be time to get busy framing.

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Thats the opening.


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Another view


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And another


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