Basement partition walls - can they be framed without attaching to overhead joists?

leitht · 01-09-2012, 04:01 PM

I have an unfinished basement that has 10' Superior Wall foundation walls. This yields close to 10' possible ceiling height in areas where there are not overhead mechanicals (HVAC ducts) and support beams.

I plan to utilize 8' of 9' ceilings in the basement. Drop ceilings will be used in the larger rooms with smaller rooms having framed ceilings for drywall.

My question is about connecting the partition walls to the bottom of the first floor floor joists. It seems that most basement framing does connect to the joists to stabilize the wall and seal the rooms. In my case, I am trying to avoid buying 10' studs to do all the partition walls which would be required to connect to the joists. I am wondering if stand-alone partition wall will pass code, and how this will affect draft and fire stop requirements.

Thanks in advance,
Tim

abracaboom · 01-09-2012, 04:05 PM

There are several solutions to your problem, none of which is simpler than just getting 10 foot studs.

mae-ling · 01-09-2012, 04:12 PM

For us there are no fire code issues with this, may differ for your area.

This is done often in commercial work with the ceiling going straight through and the walls coming up to it.

Can be done with a double top plate up to 16 feet long, I prefer 12feet or under, less flex. the interesecting walls strengthen it. You can also brace the wall up to the floor joists above if needed. for long walls build in two sections with a full height stud between the two sections. This stud would tie into the floor joists above and give it strength.

<*(((>< · 01-09-2012, 04:20 PM

Have you priced the difference between 8' and 10' studs? Without question if that is the sole reason of trying to figure out a way then, I don't know what to say.

sixeightten · 01-09-2012, 05:04 PM

If saving just a few dollars is important, then get a few 10' studs and just run them up at the ends of the walls. This will make it easier to brace and tie off.

coupe · 01-10-2012, 11:30 AM

Hi Tim. I have built millions of square feet of office spaces, industrial buildings, hospitals, and shopping malls. using metal studs. with nothing going to the joists at all, except a few braces. some walls were attached to the outside structure=block walls. some attached to interior beams. these attachment points are where all walls are braced from.

all were designed by architects/engineers and stamped as such all were vigorously inspected and passed, I assume must be under codes of all sorts!

I'm assuming your basement walls will be attached to your structure at some points! I prefer metal studs for their easiness to work with and adjust ability.

lay your basement out as you want it, frame long walls first, brace them to joists to keep plumb and straight. run other walls into your strong walls, attach to structure where you can, brace walls from structurally attached corners. make sure your rooms to be drywall ceilings are straight and lumba crooked wall, can be a drywaller's nightmare and tapers. drywall ceilings should be 5/8" walls need to be designated type X fire retardant. drop ceilings, make sure you pick a fire retardant tile and use fire grid, the grid is a bit more films than regular grid. it's made to collapse under extreme heat. helping to extinguish fires. be sure to pop rivet every beam and T in the grid on both sides to keep walls stronger. attach nothing! no any kind of duct work, and make drawings marking exactly where shut off cales and any other mechanicals are for future reference if need to cut out for repairs?

if you need any tips or help? give me a holler in a new thread to me as I may miss them under other treads