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brobinson 11-16-2008 11:31 AM

I have a 30'x60' basement that is on the block for remodel. The plan is to have a bedroom, bathroom, entertainment area, office area and rec area. There is a wood burning stove at the north end of the basement that is used to offset the furnace from running($$). It does well in heating the house but it is not intended to through radiant heat and the stairwell, also located at the north end of the house. The house is a single story ranch. Location is in central Ohio, so the climate swings quite a bit. This project may take some time due to funding. Not a shortage of funds, just taking a conservative approach.

Here is a small list of questions that I'd like some input on:

1) The current debate is to drywall or tile for the ceiling. I have enough tile for the job of the entire basement, just no runners yet. Within the entertainment area a surround sound system will be used. Will ceiling insulation be necessary for sound-proofiing? Will the insulation cut down on the radiant heat?

2) The block walls do not leak or seep water so I want to cover them with insulation and drywall. Is there any ramifications to starting entirely with the outer walls and covering them to start. Then adding the interior walls as needed?

3) Bathroom: Any ideas? Probably build the floor up for the bathroom and install a plastic tank with a sewage pump to get the wastewater out.

bjbatlanta 11-18-2008 04:37 PM

1) Neither drywall nor a grid system with acoustic tiles will sound "proof" the area even with the addition of insulation. At best, either will deaden some of the sound and insulation between your floor joists will help to an extent. And ,though not my area of expertise, I would think that any covering you put over the existing floor (whether insulated or not) would detract from the radiant heating to the upstairs (which is how I'm interpreting your question.......)
2) If by "covering them" you mean adhering directly to the block walls, I would advise against that. Even using 1"x furring strips or metal furring "channel" is not the best option. Frame a 2"x4" wall inside the block walls and insulate with batt insulation. That gives you room to place electrical boxes, plumbing, etc. properly.
3) There are sewage "ejection" systems that can be used without cutting the floor and placing the tank and pump in the ground. I'm not that familiar with them to really recommend them, but it does seem the easiest way to go for the DIY'er.

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