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Old 04-14-2011, 10:25 AM   #1
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Baseboard/Drywall Gap


Contractor is renovating a room in my house, which dates to the 1880's. Renovation included demo of the original plaster, rewiring, and installation of drywall. I had requested that all original trim be saved for re-use. However, it was impossible for the baseboard to be removed without splintering, so it was left in place. When they installed the drywall, they cut the bottom of the panels even with the top of the baseboard, so there is no overlap. Consequent to mudding, in some spots a gap remains between the top of baseboard and the drywall, because in those areas, the mud just fell down into the wallspace. The contractor would like to remedy this by installing quarter round on TOP of the baseboard to hide the gaps. I'm not too thrilled with the idea. I considered using base cap moulding, or cove moulding, but the standard sizes would not be as wide as the top of the baseboard and gap (1" total), and would leave a narrow ledge. Suggestions? Would tape and caulk be a possible solution? I don't think shims (and caulk) would work--the baseboard would support them on one side, but since there is no drywall behind the baseboard, there's nothing to support shims from behind. Would appreciate suggestions from anyone who has encountered such a situation--thanks!

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Old 04-14-2011, 10:59 AM   #2
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Baseboard/Drywall Gap


Some pics would be nice, I have no doubt that this can be fixed either by flat taping the edge against the baseboard or by cutting out some drywall and installing a wider piece. Don't settle for quarter round if you don't want it.

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Old 04-14-2011, 11:16 AM   #3
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Baseboard/Drywall Gap


Why would they not have used a recip. saw with a metal blade to cut the nails behind the baseboard? Or even a multi-cutter? I would also like to see some pics.
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Old 04-14-2011, 11:41 AM   #4
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Baseboard/Drywall Gap


It seems I can't upload a photo, for some reason. I don't know why they did what they did. I think they should have extended the drywall so that it went behind the baseboard, instead of cutting it even with the top of the baseboard. The baseboard doesn't overlap it, not does the drywall hit the top of the baseboard--hence, the gaps in spots.
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Old 04-14-2011, 12:50 PM   #5
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Baseboard/Drywall Gap


Check out this thread Jane

How to Upload Photos - A short Guide
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Old 04-14-2011, 02:00 PM   #6
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Baseboard/Drywall Gap


A drywall guy should be able to tight tape it to the baseboard then. Then use caulk to finish it off for a consistent clean look.
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Old 04-14-2011, 04:35 PM   #7
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Baseboard/Drywall Gap


Baseboard/Drywall Gap-gap-drywall-baseboard.jpg

This is a basic diagram of the problem. I drew this for the contractor to illustrate the problems I could foresee using quarter round on top of the baseboard. Now that I have figured out how to upload photos, I'll go take a couple to post.
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Old 04-14-2011, 09:40 PM   #8
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Baseboard/Drywall Gap


Baseboard/Drywall Gap-img_5038.jpg

Baseboard/Drywall Gap-img_5039.jpg

Baseboard/Drywall Gap-img_5040.jpg
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Old 04-15-2011, 12:05 AM   #9
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Baseboard/Drywall Gap


My opinion is not taking the drywall to the floor was the wrong choice. The trim was painted. If destroyed durring removal, it could have been replicated by a trim maker. Once painted, you would not have noticed. It will be hard to make this look good. Try to get some backer in the gap and then caulk it. It is still alot of caulk and may crack in time.
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Old 04-15-2011, 07:02 AM   #10
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Baseboard/Drywall Gap


Base cap molding is a standard in most homes.
Not quarter round like the Contractor is suggesting



It's readily available in most stores



Call Tom. He'll come do it right for ya....



It's a much better look than just the square top of baseboard.
Besides.....you can just say you upgraded the room.
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Old 04-15-2011, 07:47 AM   #11
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Baseboard/Drywall Gap


also remember "Base shoe" moulding is different than "quarter round". The vertical side against the base moulding is longer than the floor side.
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Old 04-15-2011, 07:55 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beerdog View Post
also remember "Base shoe" moulding is different than "quarter round". The vertical side against the base moulding is longer than the floor side.
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Old 04-15-2011, 11:37 AM   #13
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Baseboard/Drywall Gap


It does not look like there was much point in not taking off the trim in this case. It's nothing more than 1x6 from the looks of it. It's not like it had some sort of edge profile that would be difficult to replicate/match to the rest of the house.

Basecap is the ideal solution and currently available profiles do not vary that much from what was standard for Victorian design although it's not clear that is what your house it. What style is it?

If you really don't want edge cap another approach would be to inject the crevice with insulating foam. The stuff expands and would backstop the crack. Let it set, cut/carve it flat and then skim it. Would be a bit more rigid and durable than tape IMHO.

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Old 04-15-2011, 06:29 PM   #14
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Baseboard/Drywall Gap


I'm not sure that the house really has a style, per se . . . it's just a really old wood frame house. I've always been told that it was made of walnut, including the trim, which is why I had initially asked them to re-use the trim. The posts and beams do appear to be walnut, possibly(visible in the basement and when they gutted the room)--some still have the bark, but the trim has proven to be some sort of pine. I wasn't home when they decided that the baseboard couldn't be removed, but if I had been, and had known it was only pine, I wouldn't have been so concerned about re-using it. Hindsight being 20/20, not much I can do about that now, except to remedy what is. I do appreciate all the input and suggestions from everyone and will discuss with the contractor to see what he thinks he can do. Thanks much!
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Old 05-12-2011, 05:09 PM   #15
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Baseboard/Drywall Gap


base cap is going to look like crap if you cannot keep the reveal of it and the baseboard consistent.

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