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-   -   Applying joint compound to corners (http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/applying-joint-compound-corners-19877/)

DK75 04-13-2008 08:16 PM

Applying joint compound to corners
 
I am remodeling the bathroom and the ceiling-wall corners needed to be scraped, retaped, and smoothed out with compound/spackle. (they were cracking). I am also using the mesh type drywall tape.

I am a novice at best with drywall and applying compound. Anyone have reccomendations on which brand and type of joint compound to use. The sheetrock brand seems most popular, however I noticed there are blue and green label containers. I used the dry mix in the past as well.

Also, should I buy a corner tool for spreading the "mud", or use a large flat knife when spreading. All suggestions on applying the mud and finishing the surface are welcome.

brneilly 04-13-2008 09:25 PM

You don't have to use mesh tape in corners. I have seen metal angle brackets with paper already embedded for corners with drywall. Your choice though but it might be helpful getting a good corner. I would also recommend getting a corner tool (official name?) I've found it to be helpful getting the first coating of compound on the wall. Then use a large flat knife for subsequent coats. I'm not a pro though so take my advice with a grain of salt.

CowboyAndy 04-14-2008 05:31 PM

Mesh tape is harder to actually get into the corner making a nice crease. I would recomment staying away from it.

yummy mummy 04-14-2008 10:08 PM

I am taping my basement reno right now and I am using the regular paper tape, and the all purpose drywall compound, that is thinned out with water as it is too thick to apply on it's own.

I apply the compound with a 4 inch knife approx 4 -5 inches on each side and give it a good swipe, and repeat 2 more times, making each subsequent coat wider than the last and feather it out.

I have been able to get really nice corners with paper tape. I have never used the mesh tape, but I hear it is not easy to work with.

Good luck.

You will become a "pro" in no time. :thumbsup:

pjm 04-15-2008 10:22 AM

I tried the mesh tape my first time taping and found it hard to cover. It seemed a little thicker than the paper tape. I have used paper tape since then with no problems and will have to redo the bedroom I used the mesh tape. I also use the corner tool for the first coat then let it dry then use a knife for each side slowly fanning it out. It's hard to get the hang of it and can be a little frustrating, but you'll get it. The most important thing I learned was don't use too much.

Good Luck.

Sir MixAlot 04-15-2008 11:27 AM

Since it's a bathroom I'd stay away from the paper/matel tape. (humidity issue)Also that stuff is more for outside corners than inside corners.
The mummy's suggestion sounds like the route you should take.

But if your feeling froggy here's some camera phone pics I took of my corner tool in action.



http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/8123/23384730qx1.jpg

http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/3830/39342822oe4.jpg

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/1632/57599895hq9.jpg

http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/2898/87854330jl6.jpg

DK75 04-15-2008 06:26 PM

thanks for the all replies and a big thanks for the common theme to stay away from the mesh tape. Before I posted I did use the mesh tape in two sections and found teh same difficulties. It was hard to get a tight seam.

This time I went with the conventional paper tape. After laying a coating of mud on each side of the corner, I wet the tape and shook off the excess water, laid the tape in place, used my fingers to press a little, and then used a 5" knife to spread out. It worked out great. I was actually surprised how well it looked after the first coating.

Now some more questions:

1. how long do I wait for the second coat?
2. Should I add some water to thin the compound out.
(I found that wetting the knife a little to make the mud move easier helped get a very smooth layer.)

yummy mummy 04-15-2008 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DK75 (Post 116636)
thanks for the all replies and a big thanks for the common theme to stay away from the mesh tape. Before I posted I did use the mesh tape in two sections and found teh same difficulties. It was hard to get a tight seam.

This time I went with the conventional paper tape. After laying a coating of mud on each side of the corner, I wet the tape and shook off the excess water, laid the tape in place, used my fingers to press a little, and then used a 5" knife to spread out. It worked out great. I was actually surprised how well it looked after the first coating.

Now some more questions:

1. how long do I wait for the second coat?
2. Should I add some water to thin the compound out.
(I found that wetting the knife a little to make the mud move easier helped get a very smooth layer.)


1. 24 hours
2. yes, definitely add water, too thick on it's own
I also wet the knife too and find it good.

Handyman50 04-15-2008 10:12 PM

I never thin the compound for the first two coats. Then, I use topper mud for the final coat. It is a bit thinner and smooths much easier.

murray59 04-16-2008 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DK75 (Post 116636)
thanks for the all replies and a big thanks for the common theme to stay away from the mesh tape. Before I posted I did use the mesh tape in two sections and found teh same difficulties. It was hard to get a tight seam.

This time I went with the conventional paper tape. After laying a coating of mud on each side of the corner, I wet the tape and shook off the excess water, laid the tape in place, used my fingers to press a little, and then used a 5" knife to spread out. It worked out great. I was actually surprised how well it looked after the first coating.

Now some more questions:

1. how long do I wait for the second coat?
2. Should I add some water to thin the compound out.
(I found that wetting the knife a little to make the mud move easier helped get a very smooth layer.)

The first coat is always the easiest. By the way you don't need to wet the tape. For small projects I buy the premixed mud and thin it a bit for top coat. One day is the usual wait in between coats under normal drying conditions. It's easy to see if it's not dry yet. A fan helps on wetter spots, usually near the bottom. On inside corners a lot of drywallers just do the tape and one finished coat. If you are inexperienced sometimes when top coating corners it helps to do one side , wait a day and do the other side. After each drying use a dry knife to knock off any ridges, bumps etc., or hit it just a bit with a hand sander. The best tip I ever received was to use some sidelight to illuminate the work area. You'd be amazed how much detail you can see. I use a single halogen light on a floor stand off to the side about 45 degrees. Great for mudding, sanding or paint prep work and painting.

DK75 04-17-2008 07:47 AM

For some reason the compound in the corners is taking longer than 24 hours to dry completely. I am writing this off as there is no air movement in this room and it will take a little longer. I also probably put more mud on than need for the first coat. It seems from what I noticed and heard from all of you that a few light coats is the way to go.

Great advice Murray on the light trick. I have a clamp mount light that I was using to shine on the areas I was working on. It really helps to see any imperfections or spots that need finishing.

I really appreciate the advice and suggestions. I will be back at the second coat today or tomorrow and will share any feedback or observations.
Take Care

yummy mummy 04-17-2008 08:28 AM

I just mudded some corners yesterday, and the mud really needs to be thinned out, you can't do it without adding water. Also, you need to apply even pressure, first on one side and then on the other side, so that most of the mud comes out. Leaving a very even straight corner.

Good luck.

Maintenance 6 04-17-2008 03:55 PM

I never liked the corner tool. I always use a 5" taping knife to do corners and seams. If you are taping drywall to existing plaster or retaping cracks, then mesh tape will be stronger and will help to prevent re-cracking. For finishing flat joints, I prefer a drywall trowel. It looks like a short concrete finishing trowel, but has a slight curve to the face. When taping I use the trowel as a hod to carry my mud and the knife to apply it. same for finishing corners. When finishing flat joints, it's the opposite. The knife is the hod and the trowel does the work. ALWAYS stir your mud before you start. If you stir it properly, you don't need to thin it, unless you leave the lid off and it dries out. Put the lid back on while you work. It will be loose enough to spread thin. If you have some wide joints, you could have to wait a full day until it dries. A fan will help. When you apply tape, put a thin layer of mud on top to seal it into place, and smooth it out. If you don't put a top coat on it right away, sometimes the dry tape will suck the moisture out of the mud. Then when you apply a second coat it will loosen the tape. Long strokes with your knife/trowel, top to bottom without stopping will give you fewer ridges. Several light coats generally produce better results than heavy coats will. Inexperienced folks tend to want to pile it on, then sand most of it back off.

HandyPete 04-17-2008 04:18 PM

I don't use pre-mixed mud for bedding the tape, I use Durabond45 or sheetrock45 (same stuff really) it has more adhesive in it and will prevent cracking a lot! A 6" taping knife works great in my hands and by all means DON'T PUT TOO MUCH MUD ON THE FIRST COAT.

One more thing...when you do the other coats only do one side of a corner at a time...never try and mud both sides!

- pete

yummy mummy 04-17-2008 07:50 PM

Here is a site that has good tips on the diyer taping drywall.

www.drywallinfo.com


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