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-   -   Andersen Casement window stuck at top (http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/andersen-casement-window-stuck-top-69193/)

mark2741 04-16-2010 06:37 PM

Andersen Casement window stuck at top
 
I have a bay window that has has Andersen casement windows (the kind with the crank handle to open/close them). One of them gets stuck at the top only when trying to open it. In other words, when I crank the handle, the bottom starts opening but after a few inches the stuck top edge holds it back. All I need to do is give it a mild bump with my hand towards the top of the window and it gets unstuck.

Problem is, I'm selling this house and the buyers noticed this problem and want it fixed.

How do I fix this? I looked for some sort of adjustment screw but didn't see anything. I can snap a pic if it will help, but basically the casement window is about 45" tall by about 18" wide. It sticks at the top edge opposite of the hardware/hinge side.

mark2741 04-16-2010 06:38 PM

One more thing - the problem definitely is not paint. It's all weatherstripped and new pvc/plastic coating on everything. The windows were installed by the previous owner about 5 years ago, so they aren't old. I'm guessing that the house shifted a bit and the opening no longer is square with the window. What can I do?

Ron6519 04-22-2010 04:31 PM

The bay window was not adequately supported when it was installed. It is now dropping down, binding the sash. Go outside and raise the bay and put in the proper support and the windows will work properly.
Ron

Yoyizit 04-22-2010 05:21 PM

Or sand off the interfering area with a belt sander or file or small arbor-mounted grinding wheel run with your elec. drill.

You may need to remove only a few thousandths, if you find the right place.

Ron6519 04-22-2010 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yoyizit (Post 432112)
Or sand off the interfering area with a belt sander or file or small arbor-mounted grinding wheel run with your elec. drill.

You may need to remove only a few thousandths, if you find the right place.

Andersen casements are cased in vinyl. You would sand right through the protective vinyl to solve the problem and create another.
The only fix is to lift the front edge and add support.
Ron

kwikfishron 04-22-2010 07:16 PM

Andersen casements are also notorious for hardware issues, especially if used a lot. I’d at least check the frame for square before jacking anything around.

oh'mike 04-22-2010 08:25 PM

Anderson bays and bows are suspended from the soffit (rafter tails) using a cable and turnbuckle.

If lifting the window is needed you will need to remove a piece of soffiting to expose the cable and turn buckle. they are located where the outside windows meet the center window.----------------

--measure the windows corner to corner---see if they are racked.

Yoyizit 04-22-2010 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron6519 (Post 432171)
Andersen casements are cased in vinyl. You would sand right through the protective vinyl to solve the problem and create another.
The only fix is to lift the front edge and add support.
Ron

I should have asked for a photo or a link; my bad.

Ron6519 04-23-2010 07:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oh'mike (Post 432202)
Anderson bays and bows are suspended from the soffit (rafter tails) using a cable and turnbuckle.

If lifting the window is needed you will need to remove a piece of soffiting to expose the cable and turn buckle. they are located where the outside windows meet the center window.----------------

--measure the windows corner to corner---see if they are racked.

This is one option of support. Many bays are supported by supports under the bay.
As kwikfishron said, you would first check for out of square before you did anything. You would also need to know exatly what your doing so you don't crack the glass.
Ron

kwikfishron 04-23-2010 08:17 AM

I have to say I gave up on Anderson a long time ago. There’s basically only two things that can be happening. #1 Installed wrong, or #2 Hardware frailer (or mabey framing moving). Living on the Coast with all the Salt Air we experience a lot of #2. For the most part I can figure out that the window needs, a new this or that and looks easy enough to replace. The problem for me is by the time you think you’ve got past the language barrier with the inexperienced sales rep on the phone, 2-3 weeks later the wrong part arrives. I have a customer who comes to me with what on the surface is a simple problem and now I’m looking like a idiot for what should be about one billable hour. If it’s a installation issue I can see that and fix it. If it has to due with parts, I (now) hook the customer up with the Anderson Service Dept. Usually in less time that it takes to get the wrong parts they’ll have their issue fixed. Primarily because Service Guy has all that stuff on the truck.

Oh and one more thing, you better be sure it’s a hardware issue and not a another problem if you call their Service Dep. because Anderson will walk away if they decide the window was put in wrong and bill you for that fine advice.

mark2741 04-23-2010 10:06 AM

Thanks everyone. I just went ahead and sanded it down and rubbed some candle wax onto it and it's not nearly as 'sticky' as it used to be. I'm 99% sure that the frame has gone out of wack. This is only a 5-year old bay window but based on the other contract work that the previous owners of this house did, I'm sure this window wasn't framed out/installed by a quality contractor. I sold the house and just want the window 'unstuck' for the final walkthrough, so changing out hardware/reframing/etc ain't gonna happen on my watch : (


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