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Wood type for small built-in

2K views 16 replies 6 participants last post by  1488rob 
#1 ·
Hi All,

I have an opening which is about 18x48 and wanted to build some small shelves.

I havn't decided on how I will finish (stain vs paint), but I'm looking for the type of wood for either.

I was thinking maybe a 1/2 pine if I paint and maybe a cherry / walnut if I stain. Thoughts / suggestions?

Thanks
 
#2 ·
Are you planning on some built-in shelves? How deep is the opening?

I just finished a house where the (HVAC) whole-house return took up the bottom half of a chase. The space would have been a linen closet if the return was placed elsewhere. I added shelves, framed and cased the opening and built a frame and panel door to make it a "closet". The opening was about the same as yours. Since the rest of the doors and woodwork in that hallway were painted, I did the same.

For wood type, select white pine or poplar paints up very nicely.
 
#4 ·
Cabinet grade plywood with edge banding or a decorative solid wood edge is the most frequently use product for shelving and cabinet work.

Solid wood is great to work with---but the cost will surprise you---If you want real solid wood,find a hardwood lumber store---what is available at the Home Depot is over priced and very limited---
 
#5 ·
I agree with the comment about hardwood. If you plan to paint the work, I'd go with the alternatives; plywood (with a solid wood edge), MDF, or select white pine. I generally aviod anything expensive if I am going to paint a project.

If you want to use plywood, Home Depot sells a Sandeply that finishes up nicely. Strips of pine would make a good looking lip or band. If there will be any end grain showing, you can smooth it up with sandpaper and then wood filler before you paint. You can sand this plywood but keep in mind that the skin if about 1/64" thick and easy to sand right through. I'd hand sand with 180 grit.

If you use MDF, it does not hold fasteners very well. There are specialty screws for MDF... and do pre-drill holes for the screws. This stuff takes paint and looks good.

Maybe you could post a photo when you get the job done. I'd love to see how it turns out.
 
#7 ·
Short answer: yes.

Your link took me to birch plywood. I've used Home Depot's birch ply to make some bookshelves. The material worked and finished very nicely... but then is it furniture-grade. Cut carefully as you can get some tearout. You probably already know this, but as a reminder... if you cut with a circular saw, the good face should be down; on a table saw, the good face should be up. You can use a stain and clear-coat finish on this stuff.
 
#8 ·
Very cool!! Maybe I'll buy an extra piece and stain and clear coat just to see how it looks before I make up my mind.

Thanks again all!

Not to p!mp my thread, but I will be posting the pictures of this project in my basement thread from my signature.
 
#9 ·
I second the birch. I would use 3/4" and not the half.

I actually did a built in a rock wall facade in our kitchen for cook books. Initially I chose birch to paint because the builder told me the mason was a messy rascal. He wasn't so I got to stain them instead. The birch takes stain well and of course there is always paint.
 
#14 ·
I do like that stain on the right. Yes, if you try stain and then change to paint, you can cover the stain with BIN or Kilz. If you test the stain and it seems splotchy, it could be the wood. Softwoods and some hardwoods, like cherry, can be difficult, but you can use a sealer / stain control first and then apply the stain. Sometimes a gel stain works better on difficult wood. I generally prefer stain but you do have to experiment a bit with some samples of the chosen wood to get the look you want.
 
#17 ·
too bad you live in Virginia I could hook you up with some gorgeous lumber Im selling my stock of walnut maple ash cherry and my 12" jointer..hate to do it but want to sell the house im buildng but never have time or money to finish. I wish myproblem was down to a shelf option lol
 
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