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no drain blues 04-11-2012 09:16 PM

Window Stool question
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I have a window over the kitchen sink that needs a stool.

The previous owner installed a horrible make shift one. Anyway I am completely redoing the kitchen and need to fix this mess.

The situation: 1920's window, window ledge is at an angle (aprox 15 degrees), I have about 3/4 to 1 inch of window sill to work with once the sash is lowered.

The questions: 1. Is/was it customary to have the window ledge so jagged and then cover by the stool originally (see pic)? 2. How do I install a new stool to such a small area?

My plan/thoughts: I bought some thick poplar that I will mill down to about 1.5'' then cut the 15 degree angle on the table saw the entire length of the board on edge approx 1'' deep. then set up the table saw to do a flat cut and cut off the extra not needed part of the bevel. Now there will be a 15degree piece running the entire length. Mark the inner dimensions of window, and cut on bandsaw. then mark for "ears" part for the side trim to sit on, and cut. Then route the decorative face profile on router table. Please tell me there is a better way.

Here is a bad, pic of what I am dealing with.

joecaption 04-11-2012 10:47 PM

Not sure why your trying to make one, window stool moulding is a stock item at Lowes, Home Depot, any lumber yard.
And yes it's common for a stool to window distance be that small. The apron helps to support the stool.

Concider a wider stool, the ladys like it to set there flowers and do dad's on.

You install the stool, the apron, then the casing in that order.
Make sure to make the stool long enough that it sticks out behond the casing about 1/2".

no drain blues 04-11-2012 10:57 PM


I wanted to make my own to match the existing stools. I'll check the lumber yard and see what they have.

no drain blues 04-12-2012 06:22 AM

I found the stool stock on the Lowes website. The profile is close enough to what I already have it just might work, and keep me from milling my own. :thumbup:

My only issue is once I cut to size the stock stool, the "ears" that the casing will sit on will have a straight cut on the edge. The edge profile don't wrap around. I guess I could miter the corner and wrap the edge profile...

woodworkbykirk 04-12-2012 07:10 PM

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from the looks of the photo you have very little to fasten the window sil to.. meaning the depth of the rough opening is minimal to the window frame. in cases like this a large sil isnt recommended as theres too much room for it to wiggle unless your going to use pocket hole joinery to fasten it to the window frame itself as opposed to the rough sil

if your using a sil that has a profile the correct procedure is to put mitred returns on it so the profile is continous on the horns of the sil.. also for the reveal of it at the casing a 3/4"- 1" projection beyond the face and edge is the standard practice for a professional trim install. the measurement beyond the edge of the casing should match what it projects off the face of it so its symmetrical

heres a few sample pics from my personal portfolio.. hopefully they help

no drain blues 04-12-2012 09:39 PM

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Wow... thanks for al the tips WWbK :thumbsup:

I really like your suggestion to pocket join the stool to the window frame rather than to the sill. I have the KREG system so I should be able to set something up. Would you drill on the top of the stool to screw into the window frame then fill the whole?

If I go this route, should I still be concerned with having the stool "bevel rabbeted" to match the sill?

I called around and the big box stores don't carry the stool stock with factory "bevel rabbet" even though there sites list it, just not in my area. The best I can do is stock stool moulding with face profile flat back.

This is what I had in mind but can't find it local:

joecaption 04-12-2012 09:44 PM

That's called Anderson window sill I believe. Very common stool. My local small lumber yard even carrys it.
Look in the phone book for a lumber yard that sells Anderson Windows.

woodworkbykirk 04-13-2012 04:19 PM

ive installed hundreds and hundreds of window sills. either made on site or bought through trim suppliers.. none of the big box stores sell premade sils locally. and the ones that do dont have the rabett in them. we do it on site on the table saw. if we mill sills on site ourself we just use either 3/4" pine or stair tread stock then put a routered edge on it then make the rabbett. typically its always for new construction windows which requires a simply 1/4 x 3/8 straigh rabbett out of the underside of the sil so it slides into the jamb extension slot in the window itself provided its a vinyl window

as for using the pocket hole screws. if you use this method never do it so the pockets are visable. hide them as best as possible by drilling on the underside.. the apron will cover most of it and the rest can be filled with plugs

no drain blues 04-17-2012 10:31 PM

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Well, all I couldn't find locally pre made stool thick enough, all I could find was what they are calling 11/16'' stool moulding. It's much too thin. I need a full inch for the profile. I milled the angled rabbet tonight, and I'm going to knock the rest out tomorrow.

Is there a preferred method to handle a situation where the stool will go over tile? Here are a few pic of what I am trying to do. 3x6 tile back splash to the window casing. I'm thinking about running the tile, so it buts to the cashing and then notching the ears of the stool to go over the tile. Have the tile go all the way under the stool and then mill a thinner apron and glue that on top of the tile. I am trying to avoid tricky/ugly tile cuts especially around the ears of the stool.

Any advice on this is greatly appreciated.

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