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Old 03-27-2013, 12:44 PM   #16
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Window sill/returns


I dont see a problem with that, but doing it this way you may want to consider using BC or better plywood to build your box, with pine back nailers at the corners. Dont forget asphalt saturated felt between masonry and wood and insulation. Dosen't a fire egress have to be made on non combustible material though? Maybe JoeC knows.

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Old 03-27-2013, 08:42 PM   #17
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if the window has a slot in it to accept a jamb extension , nail the top to the two sides peices first then slip the assembly into the slot.. then fit your sil to that.. shimming it so that it is tight to the legs of the jamb.. from that you can get the length of the horns on the sil.

standard practice for all trim carpenters is to have the horn extend out 1" from the edge and face of the trim so its symetrical. also dont use cheap pine as recommded. upgrade to clear pine so you dont have to deal with knots bleeding through the paint.. the advantage of using pine compared to mdf is that if the window sweats.. gets left open during rain or for some reason the window leaks pine wont swell up like mdf does
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Old 03-27-2013, 10:26 PM   #18
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You deserve two thanks for your post--Kirk---

Beepster---on those deep basement window jamb extensions---

Building it as a box is the easiest for me------you may need to test fit and tack your shims in place--
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Old 03-28-2013, 04:54 PM   #19
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if you build the jamb as a box theres virtually no need to use shims. if the window is installed correctly the jamb wont move.. just shoot the jamb into place then use a small flatbar to tweak the box so its stays square so your mitres will work perfect via precutting 45`s. then you just have to cut the legs to length.

ive trimmed thousands of windows this way and its pretty much flawless
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Old 03-28-2013, 09:52 PM   #20
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nice work, kirk

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