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Old 02-14-2012, 05:14 PM   #16
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Window seat between two built-ins under low window questions.


I couldn't see the back end of the 368k in the picture on the DeWalt page, but it did say rear pivot N/A. I don't think that saw has the bed adjustment I was describing for making the bed edge parallel to the blade.

I get my pink styrofoam from the insulation section of Menards. Anyplace that sells insulation should have it. The reason for having a sheet of any kind of plywood and the styrofoam underneath is to provide a "catch" surface for when you saw your piece apart...this prevents the piece from falling on the floor or tearing a big splinter out as you get to the end of the cut and gravity takes over. The styrofoam isn't destroyed so you can use it over and over.

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Old 02-14-2012, 06:52 PM   #17
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Window seat between two built-ins under low window questions.


i agree with the others with not letting hd make your finish cuts for you... not only are the blades on their saws not very sharp but the guys using them arent the most skilled at measuring things... if by chance i do need to get them to cut something i get them to overcut it so i can break sheet goods down for transport i make the actual finish cuts myself


regarding what you want to do for the trim of the bench.. this isnt a right or wrong thing, this is a matter of what you personally like.. just take a look at the small moldings at any big box store or go to a trim supplier and see what they have
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Old 02-14-2012, 06:56 PM   #18
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Window seat between two built-ins under low window questions.


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i agree with the others with not letting hd make your finish cuts for you... not only are the blades on their saws not very sharp but the guys using them arent the most skilled at measuring things... if by chance i do need to get them to cut something i get them to overcut it so i can break sheet goods down for transport i make the actual finish cuts myself


regarding what you want to do for the trim of the bench.. this isnt a right or wrong thing, this is a matter of what you personally like.. just take a look at the small moldings at any big box store or go to a trim supplier and see what they have
Good idea. I'll just have them cut it wider than needed if it doesn't waste too much.

Do any of you transport full sheets of ply on the tops of your SUVs? I don't have a pickup truck and don't want to tear up my SUV if I don't have to. May just have to rent the Home Depot truck for 20 bucks.....
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Old 02-15-2012, 03:13 PM   #19
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Window seat between two built-ins under low window questions.


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Do any of you transport full sheets of ply on the tops of your SUVs? I don't have a pickup truck and don't want to tear up my SUV if I don't have to. May just have to rent the Home Depot truck for 20 bucks.....
I've been known to do that on occasion. I just pick up a half dozen 2x4s and lay down 3 of them first, then the sheets and then the last 3 2x4s. Ratchet down the whole sandwich and you're good to go. The extra stiffness keeps the wind from separating the sheets. I've even done foam sheets this way, and who can't use a few 2 bys laying around?
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Old 02-15-2012, 03:34 PM   #20
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Window seat between two built-ins under low window questions.


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I've been known to do that on occasion. I just pick up a half dozen 2x4s and lay down 3 of them first, then the sheets and then the last 3 2x4s. Ratchet down the whole sandwich and you're good to go. The extra stiffness keeps the wind from separating the sheets. I've even done foam sheets this way, and who can't use a few 2 bys laying around?
Nice. That sounds like the 2 x 4's will even hold off the ply from rubbing on my rails. Yet another good suggestion!

Last edited by noone; 02-15-2012 at 03:39 PM.
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Old 02-15-2012, 05:54 PM   #21
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Window seat between two built-ins under low window questions.


or buy 4 2x4's and turn em into saw horses so you have something to cut on when you go to cut your sheets
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Old 02-15-2012, 07:45 PM   #22
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Window seat between two built-ins under low window questions.


I thought I answered this yesterday, but I don't see my response posted. I buy my styrofoam at Menards, but any lumber yard will have it. The reason I make this set up under the plywood I am cutting is for support. During and after the cutting the plywood stays right in place. It doesn't fall to the floor...and the plywood doesn't splinter because the styrofoam acts like masking tape, holding the veneer tight, while the jig holds the veneer tight on the front side.
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Old 02-15-2012, 10:01 PM   #23
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Window seat between two built-ins under low window questions.


Trying to get a materials list together for this paint grade project.

Is Birch ply the norm?
3/4 for the sides tops and bottom. 1/4 Birch for the back or luan?
What kinds of clamps and glue do you use?
What size screws do you use for the against the wall sides?
What size finish nails do you use for the visible sides? Or since it's paint grade, just glue screw and biscuit join all sides and wood putty the screw holes?
Do any of you use 4 or 8 foot clamping metal straight edges to rip and crosscut ply sheets? What kinds?

Thanks again.
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Old 02-16-2012, 07:27 AM   #24
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Window seat between two built-ins under low window questions.


Just my thoughts---
Is Birch ply the norm? Probably, but any smooth sanded sheet should be good for paint.
3/4 for the sides tops and bottom. 1/4 Birch for the back or luan? Yes and yes.
What kinds of clamps and glue do you use? Pipe clamps and quik clamps. TiteBond II.
What size screws do you use for the against the wall sides? 3" #10 or #12 thru the back frame and into the studs.
What size finish nails do you use for the visible sides? Or since it's paint grade, just glue screw and biscuit join all sides and wood putty the screw holes? If you're using biscuits and glue, clamps and just a few finish nails to hold it all together until dry--no screws needed.
Do any of you use 4 or 8 foot clamping metal straight edges to rip and crosscut ply sheets? What kinds? I've got a 4.5' one I use- BUT- the jigs described in post #12 by MNsawyer can't be beat for accuracy and cost.

Thanks again.
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Old 02-16-2012, 09:54 AM   #25
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Window seat between two built-ins under low window questions.


What kind of plate joiner do you recommend I buy?

What kind of finish nailer? (air) Can I buy just one finish nailer that is 16 gauge? Or do I need an 18 gauge also?

Do you all scribe the side panels that are exposed so that they fit the wall or do you just make the box and then scribe a piece of trim to cover up any gaps where the built-in meets an irregular wall? I guess if it's not too bad you can just caulk it since this is paint grade we are talking here.


And then, looking far ahead here, how do you recommend I paint this unit? HLV sprayer? Or just hand paint with zinser cover oil primer and then top with a few layers of latex enamel with floetrol added sanded in between layers?

Last edited by noone; 02-16-2012 at 03:36 PM.
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Old 02-16-2012, 03:34 PM   #26
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Window seat between two built-ins under low window questions.


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I couldn't see the back end of the 368k in the picture on the DeWalt page, but it did say rear pivot N/A. I don't think that saw has the bed adjustment I was describing for making the bed edge parallel to the blade.
Do you mean adjusting the depth of the blade? I don't think I am understanding what you mean correctly. I have been reading both the instruction manuals for the 364 vs. the 368 and can't see any differences, to be honest.
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Old 02-16-2012, 06:40 PM   #27
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Window seat between two built-ins under low window questions.


I am not talking about blade depth adjustment. At the back of the 364K and the 384 there is a little ball joint in the pivot hinge area that has an allen screw adjustment in it. This adjustment pivots the base plate of the saw so if you measure from the wide side to the blade at the front of the blade and the back, you can make the measurement exactly the same. This makes the blade track precisely through the cut so the back of the blade doesn't drag on on side of the cut or the other and tear out chips of veneer. All the other DeWalt saws and every other circular saw that I have seen do not have this adjustment. Maybe a new one has come along that I haven't seen...I haven't been saw shopping for a while. I hope this helps.
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Old 02-16-2012, 07:41 PM   #28
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Window seat between two built-ins under low window questions.


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What kind of plate joiner do you recommend I buy?

What kind of finish nailer? (air) Can I buy just one finish nailer that is 16 gauge? Or do I need an 18 gauge also?

Do you all scribe the side panels that are exposed so that they fit the wall or do you just make the box and then scribe a piece of trim to cover up any gaps where the built-in meets an irregular wall? I guess if it's not too bad you can just caulk it since this is paint grade we are talking here.


And then, looking far ahead here, how do you recommend I paint this unit? HLV sprayer? Or just hand paint with zinser cover oil primer and then top with a few layers of latex enamel with floetrol added sanded in between layers?
Bump in case this post was missed......

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