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-   -   Window seat between two built-ins under low window questions. (http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/window-seat-between-two-built-ins-under-low-window-questions-133638/)

noone 02-13-2012 06:12 PM

Window seat between two built-ins under low window questions.
 
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I am getting ready to tackle an advanced (for me) carpentry project which will involve two built in bookcases on either side of a window with a window seat in between.

How do I handle the low height of the window which is only 17.5" from the floor to the top of the sill?

I guess I am trying to figure out how to handle the existing stool and apron.

I assume my options are to remove the existing stool and apron and then create the window seat top that flows into the window, kind of like a combo window seat/window stool I guess. Or cut off the apron to about a 1/2 inch underneath the stool and have the top of the window seat at about 16 inches, which seems kind of low to me..... And if I did this the window seat cushion would not sit flush with the wall because of the protruding stool, and I don't want to make the height of the seat even shorter to accommodate the 2 or 3 inch height of the seat cushion so it would slide underneath the reduced apron height, so i'm not sure which way to go here. I'm thinking the first option.

Thanks for any suggestions.

oh'mike 02-13-2012 06:56 PM

I agree----loose the 'stool' and make that the bench height----

Do you have a table saw? That will help a lot on this project----Mike----

woodworkbykirk 02-13-2012 07:07 PM

im with mike on this. loose the stool and apron. just be ready to have to clip some finish nails . some finish carpenters will nail down through the stool into the apron to lock things together better. makes for a stronger assembly


heres another question though. how big is the window and how high off the ground is it on the outside. reason being... the risk of a small child falling out of the windowa

noone 02-13-2012 07:17 PM

Glad you guys agree. The only downside is that I will have to remove the seat cushion to open up the shutters, but that's not that big of a deal, and a small price to pay for a better seat height.

This is the first floor so it's just ground outside that window 17.5 inches down. Perfectly safe.

I have a table saw, Craftsman, so ok, but definitely not the best. I also have a router, band saw, and a Dewalt 12" compound miter saw (not sliding), and of course the Bostitch finish brad nailer.

I was thinking about possibly having Home Depot make the cuts for the sides, backs and shelves off the 3/4 ply (3/8 for the back) for these built-ins. Seems like it would be easier than me having to do it, since they could cut a side, and then trace that side off, and then make another cut exactly the same, etc. I figured if I supervised them correctly, this could be a real option. Thoughts?

MNsawyergp 02-13-2012 08:29 PM

I would be cautious about letting Home Depot make your pieces. Mainly, how sharp is their panel saw blade. Ripping the pieces won't be the problem. Cross-cutting the plywood can produce horrible splinters. Make sure the back side is facing forward and I would like to see you use masking tape where the cut will be. They may not like you taking the time to mask the cuts, but it will give you much smoother cross-cuts.

About the window seat, I agree with the others: replace the stool. One thing, though...when you make the notch in the back to take out the area of the wall thickness on the left and right side of the window, leave about 1/4" for scribing along the wall. If you do a good job of scribing you won't need trim around the edges. Just a suggestion and may not be worth it to you.

noone 02-13-2012 08:55 PM

Great suggestions.

Sounds like I should maybe have Home Depot do the rips and I can do the cross cuts. This would at least make it easier to get in and out of the suv. It's a full size but I'd rather minimize the scraping up of the inside of it.

Here are my other questions for now-

1. If I were to use trim where the seat hits the wall, what kind would you use? Cove?
2. What type of blade should I use on my tablesaw? This saw was given to me so I don't know how to tell how old the blade is. I think I'd just assume by a new one.

Thanks again.

joecaption 02-13-2012 09:35 PM

Since you going to have a seat coushon covering up the back side just use latex caulking.
For the cuts along the wall I would make them at a slight angle. That way just the tip would be making contact and it would not be as likly to hold you off the wall.

noone 02-13-2012 09:43 PM

Good point.

What kind of wood stock would you use for the stool/seat? I'm not interested in any flip up storage or anything. It will be a fixed hollow and empty seat. What's a good seat depth? I'm thinking 14" deep shelves, 16 or 17" deep seat? Maybe I could bullnose route on the front of the seat with a little bit of cove underneath? The front of the seat I plan on doing the standard recessed panel wainscoting.

**edit**. I guess I can trim it out however I feel fit. That's the fun part of this whole project. I can do it however I want!!

joecaption 02-13-2012 09:48 PM

I would use 3/4" cabinet grade plywood and bull nosed molding on the front. Trying to route a profile on plywood is just going to tare it up and leave end grain exposed.

noone 02-13-2012 09:57 PM

I thought that was an option too. Thanks for confirming. More questions to come as the project progresses. It will be a few weeks before the project starts.

joecaption 02-13-2012 10:03 PM

I also would use biskits between the bull nose and the plywood, Tite Bond II glue and at least 2" long finish nails.

MNsawyergp 02-13-2012 10:07 PM

I would use colonial door stop around the edges or ranch door stop, which ever fits the theme of the rest of the room or house. Cross-cutting long plywood on a table saw sucks! I would get a 40 carbide blade. I would still tape Both sides of the cut...a table saw tends to blow out the back side when cross-cutting.

Do you have a good circular saw? If you do, you could make a fence jig that clamps to the plywood and your saw rides on it to make your cross-cuts. I make mine out of 2 layers of 1/4" plywood, The bottom layer about 12", the 2nd about 6". Glue the 2 layers together flushing one edge. Make sure that the edge of the 2nd layer that runs down the center is arrow straight, preferably a factory edge, but they aren't always straight. You can glue these by putting weight on them to press them together on the floor. Once they are dry, run you circle saw with the bed on the 1st layer and the edge against the straight edge down the middle. The saw will cut a portion of the 1st layer off, but that will be your reference edge for all future cuts. You will be able to line up this edge to a cut line, clamp on the jig, clamping to the 2 layered edge and run you saw along the jig. I have a jig at 3' and 5' for cross-cuts and 8' for rips. I make a sawing table out of 4 saw horses and a sheet of plywood. I put a sheet of 1" styrofoam on that, then the plywood I am cutting on that. I set the saw blade to cut through my plywood piece and into the styrofoam about 1/4". I have built complete kitchens and entertainment centers and library cabinets on sight with this set up. I use vise grip C-clamps to clamp the jig to the plywood. I use a DeWalt-384 8" circular saw. The 364K will work also. It is a 7" saw. I like this saw because you can adjust the bed edge to be parallel to the blade. This is super important for preventing chipping on any saw. This set up saves your back because you don't have to man handle sheets of plywood. You just move the saw.

noone 02-13-2012 10:20 PM

Wow. Excellent tips. Thanks for sharing!

noone 02-13-2012 10:43 PM

Anything wrong with the Dewalt 368K? It's 3lbs lighter than the 364K.

noone 02-14-2012 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MNsawyergp (Post 852970)
I would use colonial door stop around the edges or ranch door stop, which ever fits the theme of the rest of the room or house. Cross-cutting long plywood on a table saw sucks! I would get a 40 carbide blade. I would still tape Both sides of the cut...a table saw tends to blow out the back side when cross-cutting.

Do you have a good circular saw? If you do, you could make a fence jig that clamps to the plywood and your saw rides on it to make your cross-cuts. I make mine out of 2 layers of 1/4" plywood, The bottom layer about 12", the 2nd about 6". Glue the 2 layers together flushing one edge. Make sure that the edge of the 2nd layer that runs down the center is arrow straight, preferably a factory edge, but they aren't always straight. You can glue these by putting weight on them to press them together on the floor. Once they are dry, run you circle saw with the bed on the 1st layer and the edge against the straight edge down the middle. The saw will cut a portion of the 1st layer off, but that will be your reference edge for all future cuts. You will be able to line up this edge to a cut line, clamp on the jig, clamping to the 2 layered edge and run you saw along the jig. I have a jig at 3' and 5' for cross-cuts and 8' for rips. I make a sawing table out of 4 saw horses and a sheet of plywood. I put a sheet of 1" styrofoam on that, then the plywood I am cutting on that. I set the saw blade to cut through my plywood piece and into the styrofoam about 1/4". I have built complete kitchens and entertainment centers and library cabinets on sight with this set up. I use vise grip C-clamps to clamp the jig to the plywood. I use a DeWalt-384 8" circular saw. The 364K will work also. It is a 7" saw. I like this saw because you can adjust the bed edge to be parallel to the blade. This is super important for preventing chipping on any saw. This set up saves your back because you don't have to man handle sheets of plywood. You just move the saw.

Where did you buy your 1" sheet of styrofoam?? Any disadvantages to just laying your 3/4 on some 2 x 4's resting on the 1/4 ply table?


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