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Old 01-11-2011, 10:41 PM   #16
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Window extensions and trim


I'm asking because on every single window in my home there is a different reveal on the existing window frame. example the picture where it shows the entire window that window will have 1 1/4'' on side and 1/2'' showing on the other. So when I'm trying to install jambs on all sides of the window the white window frame will have different reveals (IF ANY) Thats why I'm checking to see if I need to tear out drywall and cornerbeads.

Also, If I rip some MDF from 5/8 to 3/8 that would somewhat fix the window frame issue but now I will not be able to fire finish nails through because the trim is going to have a 3/8 reveal and I'll be nailing into that cornerbead... (could I nail into that with a nailgun?)

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Old 01-12-2011, 08:01 AM   #17
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[quote=oh'mike;567886]Peal the dry wall so your reveal is the same all the way around.

It will only take a few minutes to remove the corner bead and peal the drywall---The new casings will hide the corner damage---Just go do that--

It will be easier to shim properly with a bit more room.

You are good to go--Mike--
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Old 01-12-2011, 08:32 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by lucasrcole View Post
I'm asking because on every single window in my home there is a different reveal on the existing window frame. example the picture where it shows the entire window that window will have 1 1/4'' on side and 1/2'' showing on the other. So when I'm trying to install jambs on all sides of the window the white window frame will have different reveals (IF ANY) Thats why I'm checking to see if I need to tear out drywall and cornerbeads.

Also, If I rip some MDF from 5/8 to 3/8 that would somewhat fix the window frame issue but now I will not be able to fire finish nails through because the trim is going to have a 3/8 reveal and I'll be nailing into that cornerbead... (could I nail into that with a nailgun?)
With all that difference, just go ahead and rip all the sheetrock and cornerbead as Mike said.
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Old 01-12-2011, 08:38 AM   #19
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thank you guys for your time and experience
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Old 01-12-2011, 09:01 AM   #20
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thank you guys for your time and experience
Once you set the stool you can measure the top and sides of the extension jambs and cut to length. After that, you can nail the top into the sides like a prehung door. Lift them into the opening, shim and shoot them in place. Will you be you using a nail gun?
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Old 01-12-2011, 09:44 AM   #21
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Lucas--An old fashioned sliding tri-square is handy to have on this job--Use it as a depth gauge to get an acurate number or numbers---often the windows are cocked in the hole--requiring a trapezoid shaped piece.---wider at one end that the other--
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Old 01-12-2011, 10:30 AM   #22
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I will be using a nailgun (2" 16gauge finish nails)

I'm going to tear the drywall and beads back and install 1x or MDF for jambs leaving nearly the same window frame reveal on each side.. hopeing for a minimum of 1/2'' maybe 3/4'' on each side. Then install my casing and hide all the damaged drywall, caulk all the seams then paint. Sound about right?

Again thank you guys for the tips, I'll post some pictures this weekend.
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Old 01-12-2011, 10:45 AM   #23
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Window extensions and trim


please use wood for jambs it will hold its shape better when shimming and you will be happier with finished work. have you checked windows for plumb and level on the frames, may need to fudge your jambs a little so the reveal on casing to jamb is true. I usually install sill first then nail jamb together set on sill and shim plumb and level. then case to that
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Old 01-12-2011, 10:45 AM   #24
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You will be fine---You will figure out the little details as you go.
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Old 01-12-2011, 10:51 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucasrcole View Post
I will be using a nailgun (2" 16gauge finish nails)

I'm going to tear the drywall and beads back and install 1x or MDF for jambs leaving nearly the same window frame reveal on each side.. hopeing for a minimum of 1/2'' maybe 3/4'' on each side. Then install my casing and hide all the damaged drywall, caulk all the seams then paint. Sound about right?

Again thank you guys for the tips, I'll post some pictures this weekend.
Before you remove the cornerbead and sheetrock, take a sheetrock knife and score several lines around the opening about 1-1/2" or just behind where the back of the casing goes. This will help you with eliminating any possible cracked spackle going past your casing so you don't have to do spackle touch-ups.
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Old 01-12-2011, 12:55 PM   #26
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Window extensions and trim


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The places where the mdf is to thick, why don't you just rip it down with a table saw? There's no need to take off the sheetrock and corner bead. The texture doesn't appear to be to thick where the ripped mdf would be wavy.
Dumb question guys, but isn't ripping wood cutting it long ways with the grain? If you wanted to make the MDF thinner, wouldn't you be resawing it; essentially making a 3/4" thick piece two 3/8" thick pieces?
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Old 01-12-2011, 03:08 PM   #27
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yea your correct I just used the wrong term.. I could resaw if I owned a band saw... or I could buy a planer.
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Old 01-23-2011, 05:36 PM   #28
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Here's one I did this weekend. I replaced the window last weekend and did the extensions jambs yesterday. I used Poplar for the jamb and Primed pine casing.

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