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Old 07-21-2008, 10:22 PM   #1
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window casing stool help? Images posted


ok just bought me a new miter saw from sears and new jigsaw,
my wife and i are going to be installing window casing & stools,
the stool we cut out fits nice and tight but has some gap in it,
i was wondering is there anything you can get to fill the gap,
we will be painting these casing and stool white once done,Thanks,Chris


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Old 07-21-2008, 10:37 PM   #2
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Congratulation on the purchase of your new tools, I use painters caulk and whip it off with water and a sponge. your not looking to go in business are you????????. Nice job On the sills, Next time in sears get your self a wood file set. then when you do your next sill you can file the sides to bring the profile of the stool around. Do the same if your going to install a sill apron. Keep up the good work. BOB

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Old 07-21-2008, 11:04 PM   #3
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i just read around on the internet, ppl actually are talking about not to use caulk. they said it would shrink and also discolor after a while. would you please tell me if there is any difference between the painter's caulk and regular caulk? or is there any other better solutions?

thanks much

Chris
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Old 07-22-2008, 12:00 AM   #4
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Bob is full of solid advice, and this thread is no exception. Use caulk, just use something that will remain flexible. Siliconized acrylic latex caulk will work fine, and can be painted once it has dried.

Like Bob said, use a damp sponge to strike the excess caulk off the gap.
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Old 07-22-2008, 06:10 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by buletbob View Post
Congratulation on the purchase of your new tools, I use painters caulk and wipe it off with water and a sponge...BOB
Exactly. Water and sponge is the way to go for wiping the caulk and getting it perfectly blended with the woodwork (no gobs).

3rd Vote: Latex/silicone Caulk. Paint the new trim = perfection.
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Old 07-22-2008, 07:24 AM   #6
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Will regular caulk crack after a while? I am totally a newbie, Thanks for everyone's answer
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Old 07-22-2008, 07:42 AM   #7
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It all depends on what regular is made of. Stick with painters caulk its more flexible when dried. or with what ALANTIC said above. I have used caulk that had a high content of acrylic which when dried it turned hard and cracked. Stick with something flexible.
suggestion!! don't use a caulk that's 100% silicone, the paint will not adhere to it . it will flake off.
Good luck Bob.
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Old 07-22-2008, 11:46 AM   #8
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Great idea. Thanks.

It's too bad he used caulk. I've done a lot of crown molding and some gaps are inevitable with mitered corners. Even if the walls meet at 90 degrees, or if you compensate for walls that aren't square, there is the problem of the ceiling sometimes not being square with one or both walls. That's especially frequent in old lath and plaster homes or old homes that have settled.

In that case, and if I don't have materials to do it over, I'd use water mixed plaster such as "Easy Sand" drywall mud, or "Water Putty", or "Fix-it-All". to carefully fill in, using a small spatula to force the material deeply into the predampened gap and to shape it to the molding in both directions. Plaster powder that you add water to cures before it dries, so it doesn't shrink like caulks or premixed spackling compounds.

After drying and sanding, I "prime" with a thin coat of caulk to flexibly bridge small expansion cracks that might develop over the years. Then, prime the repair and paint with water based flexible laytex acrylic paint. I did this in a 1906 home about five years ago, and the corners still look good.

If the molding isn't laid properly so that the edges don't match, and if the mismatch is too big to fake it with a bit of chiseling and sanding, you would need to redo.

I hope you can ignore your cunado (that's Spanish for "beloved" brother-in-law) for the sake of your sister and possible nieces and nephews. They need all the support they can get from the rest of the family because unlike you, they have to live with him!
I found this post for a bad crown molding work. In this post, this guy mentioned to use water mixed plaster such as "Easy Sand" drywall mud, or "Water Putty", or "Fix-it-All". to carefully fill in, using a small spatula to force the material deeply into the predampened gap and to shape it to the molding in both directions. Plaster powder that you add water to cures before it dries, so it doesn't shrink like caulks or premixed spackling compounds.

Guys do you think this method is applicable to my situation?

Thanks muchzzzz
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Old 07-22-2008, 04:18 PM   #9
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Not in your case. Old homes with some big gaps and a homeowner that's a fanatic yes that's the way to go.
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Old 07-22-2008, 04:20 PM   #10
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our home is a 1997 model if that helps,
Thanks,Chris
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Old 07-22-2008, 08:29 PM   #11
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you should be fine with the caulk. Your cuts where good. If you would like to know how to fine tune your cuts where you cut down on your caulking I'll be glade to go over it with you. BOB
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Old 07-22-2008, 11:13 PM   #12
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Yeah, please do tell. We would love to know!!!
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Old 07-23-2008, 09:04 AM   #13
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First you must get a bevel gauge, then let me know. BOB

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