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wreckless123 09-30-2005 09:23 PM

Will this work?
 
I just had a 26X26 garage built and am already finding that I am running out of space. I have 12 a foot ceiling so I have decided to hang the wave runners from the ceiling and back the boat underneath them.. What you are looking at is still a prototype but it is close to what I will end at. There will be two of the wave runners, 450 pounds each, pictured side-by-side and the boat underneath. The weak point I worry about is the winch. It is a Harbor Freight special. It was $149 on sale for $79. It will supposedly lift 900 pounds, but will it hold it for 5 months?? I have heard some concern about the rafters sagging also, any ideas? Constructive criticism welcome...

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y40...3/IMG_0036.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y40...3/IMG_0032.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y40...3/IMG_0035.jpg

Teetorbilt 09-30-2005 10:56 PM

No. was too short.

K2eoj 09-30-2005 10:58 PM

Probably what you have is fine but I think i would go with a microlam. Your bottom cord should have a dead load rating per sq ft. Just get the weight spread out as much as possible. Those bottom cords always hold my fat butt just fine and Im closing in on your wave runner. HS

BigA 10-05-2005 09:39 AM

Is it a WINCH? or a HOIST? a 900 lb winch in this situation is definitely not what you want. a 900 lb hoist is probably fine.

If you are not sure, look at the specs, and if it is designed to be a hoist, you should see it say somewhere in the braking specs "rated load holding" - or something to that effect.

If it does not say that, I wouldn't trust it. I suppose it would be possible to use the winch to get it into position, and then secure it with a safety chain - provided you never stand underneath it.

one more thing - make sure it does not free-wheeling clutch as an option.

mighty anvil 10-05-2005 04:50 PM

A residential roof truss is designed to use the minimum amount of material to support a uniform roof load. The truss is obviously not designed to carry a point load of this size and it is not easy to modify the truss to take such a load unless you have a computer truss simulator.
Install a beam that will span the space and carry the load. Leave the truss alone.

jproffer 10-05-2005 05:55 PM

I agree with Mighty. Trusses are made to hold the roof..most aren't even built to hold a floor on top unless that is specifically asked to be considered in the design. This is worse than a floor, it's all loaded on just one truss, at least the weight on a floor is spread by the plywood.

K2eoj 10-05-2005 07:07 PM

In this region trusses are built for 55 lb live and snow and 20 lbs. dead and storage on the bottom chord. That = 3900 lbs. per truss and 11,700 lbs. over 3 trusses on a 26 ft span. I believe our local truss engineer could design a mod to pick up a 450lb. point load and would put his stamp on it.> Looking at the above pics I would guess the design is for little or no snow so maybe the above posts are correct in saying this should not be done. HS

mighty anvil 10-06-2005 11:27 AM

You don't have to load the roof trusses. Just add a beam diagonally just below the top plates. Two 2x10's should do it. Add some stud supports and tie the beam to the trusses for lateral stability. Use a safety cable in case the hoist fails.

'Andyman 10-07-2005 08:01 AM

Don't load the trusses
 
Using that double 2 x 6 to support two machines is putting a point load on all of the trusses and although each truss will see a load of a different magnitude, you are still putting a stress on the bottom chords that should't be there. Why go the extent of having an Engineer analyze the situation, design reinforcing and leave yourself with a lot of work.

Mighty Anvil's idea is excellent. Looking at the pictures, counting wall studs and truss spacing, I can pretty well pinpoint where the machine is hanging and if you put a built up beam ( the (2) 2 x 10's as Mighty suggested ) at 45 deg and retain the machines location, you end up with a beam approx 10'-0" long with negligable deflection.

I would add to Mighty's other suggestion about installing a safety cable(s). When you have the machine in position, lower it just enough to take up any slack in the cables and let the cables do the holding. With even an inch or two of slack in the cable, if the hoist let go, arresting the fall of the machine would produce considerable shock loads.

K2eoj 10-07-2005 09:04 AM

Andy, respectful disagreement here. Your 10 ft. beam is only 7 ft. from each corner, about 6 studs. a sq+ b sq = c sq. Pathagoras.

'Andyman 10-07-2005 10:19 AM

Pythagoras
 
Hammerslammer,

You are agreeing with me. Looking at the first picture, one end of the diagonal beam would be at the left side of the lintel above the window 7' from the corner. The other end, would just over 5 studs from the corner, also 7' feet. However, the square on the hypotenuse (the beam) equaling the sum of the squares on the other two sides, equates to 7^2 + 7^2 = 98. The square root of 98 = 9.89 (approx 10')

K2eoj 10-07-2005 12:19 PM

More respectful disagreement. " Two objects cannot occupy the same space simotaniously",(my plumber). Center of the beam is 3.5 ft. from either wall. Those waverunners look bigger than me and my plumber put together and I don't think two of us could fit in that corner. But I've been wrong before. HS

mighty anvil 10-07-2005 12:47 PM

Wreckless has posted this question in the Contractor Talk Chatroom and he's either not following the answers here or he's just ungrateful for them, unless of course he's just wreckless.
http://www.contractortalk.com/showthread.php?t=4608

K2eoj 10-07-2005 01:01 PM

He has probably answered a few plumbing questions with no thanks. I'm just clearing some cobwebs out of the brain and practicing some typing. I really should be at work. HS.

'Andyman 10-07-2005 01:37 PM

Oops!
 
Hammerslammer,

By pointing out to me that the centre of the beam is 3.5' from each wall took me back to the first picture. My cobwebs are now cleared and see that the hanging point for the machine is in fact 5'-4" from the window wall and 3' from the stud wall. Now, puting the 45 deg beam across, the ends would be 8'-4" from the corner. This can be adjusted a bit to clear the wall studs if need be but now gives a beam length of approx 12' and the double 2 x 10's are still adequate. Thanks for the clarification on the beam location.

As for you and the plumber fitting into one corner, I think the intention was to have a beam at each side of the garage with one machine in each corner.


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