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-   -   What wood stock and joints can be used for this? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/what-wood-stock-joints-can-used-188314/)

dbooksta 10-09-2013 02:07 PM

What wood stock and joints can be used for this?
 
Looks like these shelves are made out of stock with true thickness of 1.25"-1.5", with hidden joints. Where can I buy stock that thick that's at least 24" wide, or what am I asking for?

And what methods should be used to fasten it at right angles and to the wall/stairs?

http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/73...b3ab9dfd41.jpg

Arkitexas 10-09-2013 06:35 PM

Glue two sheets or planks of 3/4" together. Cost a lot less than buying 1 1/2" from a specialty supplier.

kwikfishron 10-09-2013 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dbooksta (Post 1251467)
Looks like these shelves are made out of stock with true thickness of 1.25"-1.5"

Looks like it maybe...It's likely just faced 3/4" stock.

joecaption 10-10-2013 12:48 AM

Just looks like 3/4 cabinet grade plywood with edge banding to me.
Easiest way to build it would be with Kreg screws.
http://woodworking.rockler.com/c/kre...utm_creative=e

oberkc 10-10-2013 02:06 PM

I still like rabbet joints for this. Cut a shallow slot into the suface of one side, equal in width to the board to be joined. Add glue and clamp. Toenail a finish nail from the underside if extra security is desired.

There are variations, but a google search should answer any detailed questions.

Kreg screws are quick and functional, as suggested by joecaption. I simply find it fun and worth the effort to mill out the slot and avoid the exposed fastener.

framer 10-13-2013 08:55 AM

I would just use 3?4 ply and do a 1 1/2 face frame. For construction the shelf's I would use dados as they provide a lot of strength but for the face frames I would use a kreg jig and glue the joints even though they say that you don't have to.

joecaption 10-13-2013 09:07 AM

I suggested the Kreg because what's the chances a first time DIY is going to have a router and over sized straight bits or a table saw and a dado? Kreg's can be done on the under side of the shelves and the holes filled with there tapered plugs so no holes show and only need a drill.
I agree a dado would be better, but.

chitownken 10-13-2013 09:28 AM

Undersized straight bits. 3/4 ply is actually 23/32.

dbooksta 10-13-2013 04:06 PM

Well I do have a plunge router and table saw. I've done cheater dado cuts with the table saw's regular blade and fence, and if it's that much better than screwing I'd invest in a dado blade for this project.

Although yes, if Kreg screws + glue can support the loads without squaking I might still just do it that way.

For the face frame are you talking about using Kreg screws to connect the face boards to each other, or to the plywood (or both)?

Thanks.

framer 10-13-2013 05:20 PM

if you have a good table saw I would get a dado set. If your table saw is not so god I would go with a straight edge and a router.

I would use the kreg jig to attach together the face frame and if there was enough room I would use it to attach the face frame to the cabinets.

oberkc 10-13-2013 09:46 PM

Quote:

I've done cheater dado cuts with the table saw's regular blade and fence
Nothing cheating about that.

My experience is that rabbets are stronger, but kreg joints are probably plenty strong enough. I am also more confident with alignment and keeping shelves straight using rabbet joints.

I guess it is simply a decision on whether it is worth your time.

dbooksta 10-13-2013 10:55 PM

OK, dado it is. And I assume a 3/4" dado is appropriate for nominal 3/4" plywood, and the glue takes up any of the 1/32" difference in actual thickness?

For a cross joint like '+' is there a best practice on how deep to cut the rabbet on each side of the horizontal piece?

One other thing: I actually want 30" deep shelves, not 24", so standard 4x8 sheets aren't ideal. Will any suitable jointed board be price competitive with paint-grade cabinet plywood? Or, if painting, can one use baltic birch plywood (which has the advantage of coming in 5x5 sheets) and just sand or round-off the front edges instead of facing?

oberkc 10-14-2013 11:30 AM

Quote:

And I assume a 3/4" dado is appropriate for nominal 3/4" plywood
I would make an effort to avoid the 1/32 gap. Measure your material and make the slot match. Sometimes, I make the slot tight, and bevel (slightly) the end of the shelf board, using a block plane.

As others have pointed out, there are router bits that match the width of common plywood thicknesses.

I prefer relatively shallow slots, in order to avoid degrading strength. I have used 1/8" deep with good success. Perhaps a little deeper, but my gut says to keep it less than 1/4" on 3/4" stock. If you have cross joints, I would avoid anything deeper than 1/8.


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