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STL B. 12-28-2010 12:25 PM

What wood glue?
 
I need to remove 1/4"x1" trim and install 1"x1" on the my front door frame in order to give the tollerances needed to hang a stormdoor I have a small window of warm weather 45 high to 35 low later this week. My ? is what glue would work best for the frame to trim joint ?

oberkc 12-28-2010 12:41 PM

If you are going to glue it, I like polyurethane glue, such as gorilla glue. It fills joints nicely and is waterproof.

STL B. 12-28-2010 12:54 PM

I am going to use a brad nailer to attach the trim but a little glue seems like a good idea. It looks like the storm door attaches to the trim not the door frame?

mrgins 12-28-2010 04:33 PM

you don't need glue. Use exterior screws and caulk the edges after

jules4 12-31-2010 08:06 PM

Tightbond III is the only wood glue I'd use for exterior work.

TheDoorGuy 01-01-2011 08:29 AM

I think you might want your filler board to be wider than 1" (3/4" net or are you milling it?).
to avoid having it split when you put all of those screws in through the flanges.

STL B. 01-01-2011 01:42 PM

The J-channel is butted tight around the door and the 1x.25" trim so I have only 1" to work with. According to the stormdoor install. booklet I need 1" of with for the flange and 1" of depth for clearance for the door it's self. The problem is I only have about 5/8 depth with the 1"x.25" trim that's there so I have found 1"x1" stock that is going give me the clearance's required. This is the result bad planing and lack of understanding on my part I could have removed the old trim and replaced it with brickmold before the siding was installed thus solving the problem but.........
The new trim is a true 1"x1" so give me all the pointers that a door guy can please.

TheDoorGuy 01-01-2011 07:03 PM

Sounds like you are on the right track.
I am glad that your instructions say that you only need 1" for the flange.
I guess I had it in my mind that it needed to be wider...It's been a while.

Can you get that 1x1 in fir or is it only in pine? I think fir would hold the
screws better. Drilling small pilot holes for the screws would help the
boards tend not to split. Smaller holes in pine because it is softer.

Regarding glue: I guess I am a titebond fan also...No personal experience with
the polyurethane glues...I know they are popular. If you are only nailing with a
brad nailer I would definitely glue it also. As Mrgins said, screws would be a help
especially near hinges and latches. Pre drill and counter sink screws.
Regarding exterior wood trim: seal the end grain of any boards that will get wet
to avoid rot and peeling paint in the future. I use exterior glue as sealer on the
tops and bottoms of my exterior doors.

Hope that helps a bit.

STL B. 01-02-2011 10:30 AM

The 1"x1" I have is pine if I glue it and screw it will it be strong enough ? Or should I search for fir

TheDoorGuy 01-02-2011 11:35 AM

The pine is probably fine....Just keep your screw pilot holes small enough so that the
screws have plenty of material to create the threads and therefore holding power.

STL B. 01-02-2011 12:41 PM

Just for the sake of knowing how is the stormdoor frame attached to entery door frame, is screwed into the frame from the inside or face screwed ? Second question is the hinge like a piano hinge and about how many screws attach the hinge side of the frame ? And lastly would 2" screws pre-drilled and counter sunk every 12" be adequate to attach the 1"x1" trim if also glued ?

TheDoorGuy 01-02-2011 02:01 PM

1. Mostly face screwed but with a screw hole (or two) by each hinge inside the opening.
2. It is a piano hinge.
3. More than adequate on your proposed screw layout.

STL B. 01-14-2011 09:53 AM

Well door guy they are in and lookin good and it was very easy. They are emco doors front and back costing around $400 total with the trim/screws and caulk. It took about 2hr for the cheaper rear door and I could have finished the front in 1.5hr if it wasnt for the 3/4" drill bit(that I didn't have) for the lock set so I took a beer break and went to lowes for a $30 taper bit and finished soon there after. So thank you sir for the tips and advice It could'nt have went any better.

TheDoorGuy 01-14-2011 12:53 PM

Thanks for the update B...Glad it went well.
Sounds like you made good time on them too...
You should add that to your business card!!

Judging from intellicast weather it looks like storm doors are
definitely in order in St Louis this week!!

RC/DG

mrgins 01-14-2011 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by STL B. (Post 569935)
Well door guy they are in and lookin good and it was very easy. They are emco doors front and back costing around $400 total with the trim/screws and caulk. It took about 2hr for the cheaper rear door and I could have finished the front in 1.5hr if it wasnt for the 3/4" drill bit(that I didn't have) for the lock set so I took a beer break and went to lowes for a $30 taper bit and finished soon there after. So thank you sir for the tips and advice It could'nt have went any better.

I've installed around 3000 of those for a large box store over the last few years. I just do it on the side. I use pre-primed material and often have to build out both sides of the frame up to 4". I usually countersink 5" ceramic coated screws but not glue, just because of the expense and the fact its a bit overkill. Those take me about 1 hour a piece, so you did well:thumbsup:


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