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Old 01-31-2011, 11:49 AM   #31
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What tools do you need for installing crown molding?


So lets recap all of the advice here into one reply:

If you intend on using any air tools for future projects then I would suggest you get yourself one.

Crown jigs: A jig is great, but do NOT buy the orange clear plastic 'see-through' model. It is made of very brittle plastic, and will snap the very first time you drop it on the floor.

Rockler, (a very good company in my opinion) where I bought that jig, was great and replaced it immediately, 'no questions asked', but I now use it only with a short teather cord tied to my miter saw stand.

The only jig I use is one the DeWalt puts out for their chop saws. It just screws onto the base plate of the saw so that your moulding is seated in the same place each time. I also use a round rasp to fine tune the back cut on the coped ends.


Beer. Lots of beer.


Miter saw, coping saw, utility knife, scribe, and I prefer a non-air nailer(no hose to drag around). I also use a stud finder to locate studs for nailing the lower edge.

A round and a flat file also work to fine tune the cope. Sometimes sandpaper wrapped around a dowel. Some use a dremel type tool or some type of grinder.


Don't use silicone caulk unless you know it accepts paint well. Use an acrylic latex.

I use ADHESIVE CAULKING (Permaseal, I think) to caulk the edges after everything is in place, and it anchors the molding up there like a rock.


two ladders and a plank too

the finish nailer is the most important tool, IMO.


Buy this book: COMPOUNDMITER.COM

One set of tools that I find ABSOLUTELY indispensable for hanging crown are "Crown Molding Hangers". See various incarnations available.


First off, don't use silicon, it's not paintable. Second, you don't need fancy jigs. When I first started putting up crown moulding I kept messing up the cuts from an outside corner to an inside corner. I made these templates to help me remember where the blade needed to be. Example, inside 1 to outside 2. i'd bring the templates with me and match them to the 45 I needed. Saved me from a lot of headaches. First you need jigs, now you don't. It is a wonder than crown molding actually gets installed :- )


While I left off some of the more esoteric jig ideas, this is the basic summary of it all.

dennis


Last edited by algored2deth; 01-31-2011 at 11:50 AM. Reason: typos
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Old 02-02-2011, 07:56 AM   #32
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What tools do you need for installing crown molding?


One trick I use, especially in older homes with lathe/plaster walls, or if the walls and ceilings are bowed, rather than wrestle with keeping things tight against difficult surfaces and lack of nailing, I'll add base board to both the ceiling and wall.

Basically, chalk a straight line from corner to corner on both the ceiling and wall. Nail the "top" edge of the base along the chalk line. This gives me a continuous edge to nail to if the walls are irregular or the crown itself is bowed or twisted.

You can achieve the look of a bigger, more intricate crown moulding with less frustration and depending on the crown and base combination, it could be cheaper than a more decorative crown.

This has saved me many hours of dealing with plaster walls where finding studs could be difficult, not to mention, giving me the opportunity to put a nail where ever I need one.

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Old 02-02-2011, 09:50 AM   #33
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What tools do you need for installing crown molding?


Quote:
Originally Posted by GB Greg View Post
One trick I use, especially in older homes with lathe/plaster walls, or if the walls and ceilings are bowed, rather than wrestle with keeping things tight against difficult surfaces and lack of nailing, I'll add base board to both the ceiling and wall.

Basically, chalk a straight line from corner to corner on both the ceiling and wall. Nail the "top" edge of the base along the chalk line. This gives me a continuous edge to nail to if the walls are irregular or the crown itself is bowed or twisted.

You can achieve the look of a bigger, more intricate crown moulding with less frustration and depending on the crown and base combination, it could be cheaper than a more decorative crown.

This has saved me many hours of dealing with plaster walls where finding studs could be difficult, not to mention, giving me the opportunity to put a nail where ever I need one.

I have one question.

I can fully understand how you would be able to nail the wall-mounted baseboard to studs (although locating all of them is a bit of a pain in the rear). But how do you nail the ceiling-mounted baseboard to anything if the trusses/joists are running parallel to the crown?

Seldom, if ever, is there wide enough dead wood above to anchor that baseboard. As I see it, this leaves you nailing into only 5/8" drywall or some very hard plaster.

OK... 'two' questions.....
Quote:
Originally Posted by GB Greg View Post
This has saved me many hours of dealing with plaster walls where finding studs could be difficult
What do you end up nailing into if you cannot locate any studs as you mentioned?
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Last edited by Willie T; 02-02-2011 at 09:59 AM.
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Old 02-02-2011, 10:03 AM   #34
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What tools do you need for installing crown molding?


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Originally Posted by Willie T View Post
I have one question.

I can fully understand how you would be able to nail the wall-mounted baseboard to studs (although locating all of them is a bit of a pain in the rear). But how do you nail the ceiling-mounted baseboard to anything if the trusses/joists are running parallel to the crown?

Seldom, if ever, is there wide enough dead wood above to anchor that baseboard. As I see it, this leaves you nailing into only 5/8" drywall.

What's nice about using this base board trick is that you're covering a good portion of the base with the crown. Any number of different drywall anchors would work. I usually go with those white threaded anchors that you screw in to the drywall, then fasten with a screw. Something like this: http://www.lowes.com/pd_133873-10337...ywall%2Banchor

I put them 2-4 feet apart depending on how flat the ceiling is and one where there are low spots. Once everything is nailed in place, it's rock solid.
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Old 02-11-2011, 12:14 PM   #35
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What tools do you need for installing crown molding?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Willie T View Post
I have one question.

I can fully understand how you would be able to nail the wall-mounted baseboard to studs (although locating all of them is a bit of a pain in the rear). But how do you nail the ceiling-mounted baseboard to anything if the trusses/joists are running parallel to the crown?

Seldom, if ever, is there wide enough dead wood above to anchor that baseboard. As I see it, this leaves you nailing into only 5/8" drywall or some very hard plaster.

OK... 'two' questions..... What do you end up nailing into if you cannot locate any studs as you mentioned?
One could also use construction adhesive and tack every two fet into the trusses.
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Old 02-11-2011, 02:26 PM   #36
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What tools do you need for installing crown molding?


Quote:
Originally Posted by GB Greg View Post
One trick I use, especially in older homes with lathe/plaster walls, or if the walls and ceilings are bowed, rather than wrestle with keeping things tight against difficult surfaces and lack of nailing, I'll add base board to both the ceiling and wall.

Basically, chalk a straight line from corner to corner on both the ceiling and wall. Nail the "top" edge of the base along the chalk line. This gives me a continuous edge to nail to if the walls are irregular or the crown itself is bowed or twisted.

You can achieve the look of a bigger, more intricate crown moulding with less frustration and depending on the crown and base combination, it could be cheaper than a more decorative crown.

This has saved me many hours of dealing with plaster walls where finding studs could be difficult, not to mention, giving me the opportunity to put a nail where ever I need one.

I've never done that myself, I like to install crown moulding the way it's originally designed to be, but just some food for thought: why not prebuild your L-shape out of 1x? If you prebuilt it, the ceiling part of the L would be nailed down to the wall part and would be supported by it. On the parallel-to-the-joist runs, you could use some adhesive and then toe nail to the drywall till it set. Then you could add a moulding to the edge of the 1x that would conform to the wall/ceiling. Then you would install the crown with lots of backing where ever you needed it and with less caulking. It's an extra step, but would work on the really bad surfaces. Any thoughts?

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