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-   -   which way to cut baseboards for inner angle fitting? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/way-cut-baseboards-inner-angle-fitting-8450/)

KUIPORNG 05-14-2007 02:25 PM

which way to cut baseboards for inner angle fitting?
 
After researching from the web, found out there are basically two ways to handle inner corner for baseboard:

1. try different angles with scrap pieces

2. cut one end straigth, then cut the other end with 45 degree then use coping saw to saw away the remains of the 45 degree end then do the fitting...

I tried the method 1 and find there are some difficulties with method 1 which is there is gap at the top no matter what angle... this is caused by the wall not 100% vertical.... I think this issue also manified when my base board type are those thick large ones which can hide everything without quarter round....

I want to try the method 2 once I am able to locate my coping saw...

wonder anyone with experienced can tell me if method 2 is better or similar issue...

I suppose if nothing I can do... I have to fill the gap with caulking...

send_it_all 05-14-2007 03:32 PM

Yes. Method #2 is better. Like you said: cut one end straight, then cut an inside 45* miter on the other piece. Then, using a coping saw, cut away the unneeded material. I prefer to use an angle grinder with a 40 or 60 grit flap disk (sanding disc). I can cope a 4" piece of moulding in about 10 seconds with one. Then I touch it up with a file or sanding block.
Another thing you can try is mitering both pieces. Then making a notch in both mitered pieces. If I can explain correctly, cut off about half of each miter (the same material you would cope off). Start at the bottom and cut about 3/4 of the way up, leaving the last 1/4 in tact. This will allow the base to get all the way into the corners without being stopped by clumps of drywall mud or other debris at the bottom of the wall. The tips of each mither should be able to touch each other unlike when you tried it before. Give it a shot. Hope this helps.

KUIPORNG 05-14-2007 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by send_it_all (Post 44973)
Another thing you can try is mitering both pieces. Then making a notch in both mitered pieces. If I can explain correctly, cut off about half of each miter (the same material you would cope off). Start at the bottom and cut about 3/4 of the way up, leaving the last 1/4 in tact. This will allow the base to get all the way into the corners without being stopped by clumps of drywall mud or other debris at the bottom of the wall. The tips of each mither should be able to touch each other unlike when you tried it before. Give it a shot. Hope this helps.

I suppose this is for method 1 .... additional technique if I understand it correctly.... anyway.. I probably will try method 2 see how it goes first before getting into this modified version of method 1...

send_it_all 05-14-2007 06:05 PM

You are correct about this being a modification of method 1. It will be faster and easier than method 2 if that includes a coping saw.

KUIPORNG 05-18-2007 08:45 AM

OK I now tried all three methods... and it seems method 2 is kind of the painless if you find a way to cut fastest...

for Method 1 and modified Method 1, the pain start at you need to try different scrap pieces with different angles... and often there is no perfect match...

whereas method 2... you don't need to measure angle... just do the robertic cut and fit... I use jig-saw cutting seems ok... I will try to use rotery tool next time see if it is better... Angle Grinder seems over kill to me as this is too powerful machine it is... and coping saw seems the turtle approach which I didn't even bother attempting and don't have a coping saw yet...

bujaly 05-21-2007 11:08 AM

Method 2# I believe is the way you should do it. Here's another reason why you should. When you cope it right, there should be no gap. Lets say 3 years down the road when the wood contracts and and such, you will not see any gaps because the piece you didn't cope is tucked behind the coped piece. Where as if you cut a 45 degree angle, where the 2 ends meet will be quite visible when the wood starts to contract..
You follow me?

KUIPORNG 05-22-2007 08:41 AM

Yes I follow you... yes I am using method 2 already...

another question: I need to predrill for using screws to attached half of my baseboards as half of my studs are steel studs... question for that is what is the correct way to pre-drilling... after trying some, my guess would be:

pre-drill all the way with a pretty thin drill-bit...

then pre-drill a little bit at the surface with a drill-bit larger/equal to the size of the screw-head so that the screw head can sink beneath the surface.

is this the right approach for pre-drilling?

bujaly 05-22-2007 05:04 PM

Yes, but there's an easier way. Just go to Home Depot or any hardware store and ask for a "counter-sink" drill bit.. I use this when I do cabinets or whatever else I need to have the screw sit flush or beneath the surface.. Then you can fill it in with a paintable caulk or mud..

send_it_all 05-22-2007 07:40 PM

While at the depot...ask the hardware guy for "trim head" screws. They are to screws what finish nails are to nails...they sink below the surface and leave a much smaller hole than a countersink.

AtlanticWBConst. 05-22-2007 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by send_it_all (Post 45916)
While at the depot...ask the hardware guy for "trim head" screws. They are to screws what finish nails are to nails...they sink below the surface and leave a much smaller hole than a countersink.

Yes, as ''send it all'' stated: use trim-head screws. There is NO NEED to countersink when you use them.

They are the standard fasteners used when doing any finished wood trim work onto steel framing.....

(BTW - The extra hassle of this is why I recommend wood framing for DIYers)

send_it_all 05-22-2007 07:56 PM

Thanks Atlantic...it's a big compliment to be agreed with by you..

bujaly 05-23-2007 07:46 AM

Trim head screws... Haven't heard of those yet.. Is that a brand name or a type of screw?

KUIPORNG 05-23-2007 08:26 AM

That is why I switch to wood framing after half of the basement framed... well... I totally agree with wood framing.... why on earth people go with steel studs... expensive...

anyhow... I did bought trim head screws ... I believed... they are #6 1 3/4 inch screws... they have a small head for square head screw driver... but my trouble with this guy is, if I do not predrill a big hole, the screw won't drive in... as if you know steel, they are not as force driven as wood... when turn very hard on them... they just turn without going in... so the screw will stay above the surface if not predrill... so I guess I still need the counter-sink drill bit...

my other difficulties with the xyz steel... is looks like stud founder finding steel is not as accurate as wood.... I just want to xyz the people who invent steel studs...

bujaly 05-23-2007 09:19 AM

That's what I was wondering. "Trim-head" screws.. Are those applicable to both wood and steel studs?

NateHanson 05-23-2007 09:26 AM

Trim-head screws are a type of screws, like flat-head or trumpet-head (drywall screws).

I've always seen them as wood screws. They'll work fine in metal studs that have been pre-drilled.

I wonder if anyone makes a self-drilling sheetmetal trim-head screw. Seems like that would be a real time-saver when attaching wood trim to metal-stud construction.


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