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Old 05-26-2008, 09:04 AM   #1
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wardrobe doors


Hi,All
First time on the forum, so hope im asking in the right place,
I have built a large wardrobe but the doors will have to be made due to the not so common size openings, i have sourced some moulded MDF framing which i want to use in the cunstruction of the doors the problem is i,m not sure how to put strong joints on each corner. can any one suggest a good way to build such a door

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Old 05-26-2008, 10:16 AM   #2
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wardrobe doors


Hey Boxman

Have you considered building the doors with maple frame and an mdf panel?

J
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wardrobe doors-wardrobe-l2.jpg   wardrobe doors-wardrobe-ln.jpg   wardrobe doors-wardrobe-drawers.jpg   wardrobe doors-wardrobe-drawers2.jpg  

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Old 05-26-2008, 10:22 AM   #3
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If you're set on using mdf as the door frame (I wouldn't recommend it, it's not very strong for holding hinges, etc...but it can be done), you can use glue and pocket screws to join the frame. (of course you have to have a way to drill for the pocket screws as well...http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LPJ5XW

When I build doors I generally use the cope and stick method...but I have the routers/tables/bits to do this.

You can look online for cabinet door manufactures too (there's quite a few) and prices are pretty reasonable.

You could go the route of using 3/4" mdf for the whole door with a routed decorative edge, but they will be pretty heavy and again you have the screw holding issue.

J
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Old 05-27-2008, 10:51 AM   #4
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thank you for you replies all of which i will consider, i like the idea of maple edging and mdf panels, i just need to some hard research
thanks again
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Old 05-27-2008, 12:00 PM   #5
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You're welcome. FYI, I usually make my door rails and stiles (the horizontal and vertical door frames) 2 1/4" wide.

J
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Old 06-01-2008, 01:27 PM   #6
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OK, got my self set up with a router plus table and bits, wood to pratice with and now im plunging into the unknown
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Old 06-06-2008, 10:58 AM   #7
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I have practiced making my joints for my wardrobe doors " mortise & tennon", my querry now is can i still have the nice profile using a router bit like a raised kitchen door panal, my wood is 70mm wide 20mm thick and i also want to rout out 6mm groove for the door panal
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Old 06-06-2008, 11:15 AM   #8
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Got pics? And...I'm a dumb american...the mm will require some conversion for me (I think I had metrics in middle school, but I'm 41 now...)

J

P.S. My festool stuff (new in Dec.) has barely been used because of the mm meas....yeah, I'm lazy.
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Old 06-06-2008, 05:12 PM   #9
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Some good advice. I might have to try this myself now. Post pics when you finish
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Old 06-07-2008, 01:42 AM   #10
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it may well be good advice, but i,m none the wiser my query is still not sorted, can i or can,t i create a nice routered edge if i,m making mortise and tennon joints.
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Old 06-07-2008, 07:08 AM   #11
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I'd have to say....I don't know.

Obviously you could run an ogee bit, or something similar around the inside of your frame after it was put together, ...but then your panel is in the way and you would a) damage it b) not be able to get deep enough with the router bit to form the edge.

You can't put the routed edge on before you assemble the door frame because you aren't using the cope and stick method (where two pieces, usually the rails of the doors are coped for the profile of the pieces they are fitting into...if that makes sense).

I think the method you have in mind is better suited for shaker type doors (square frame and flat panel) than a traditional raised panel door.

For what you are trying to do you would be better off buying a 3 piece door router bit set if budget allows.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_gw...it+set&x=0&y=0

Did any of this make sense....now my head hurts.

J
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Old 06-08-2008, 05:02 AM   #12
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yes, you made good sense, i might have to change the plan a little and not be so ambitious, perhaps a simple bit of routing on the inside of the panal would be best,

thanks
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Old 06-13-2008, 08:30 AM   #13
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I have seen on some panel doors with the routing stopping just short of the internal right angles, this might be the best solution for me, does any one know how i can go about doing this and end up with a pleasing end to routing work
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Old 06-13-2008, 09:46 AM   #14
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Mortise and tenon joints don't lend themselves to elaborate edge profiles very well. You can certainly use a small ogee or roundover bit without exposing the tenon, but some profiles will go too deep in average-thickness doors and will expose the joint.

I'd suggest a matched stile and rail bit set. The joint and the edges' profile is incorporated in one bit, or pair of bits.

You can certainly put raised panels in T&G or mortise and tenon stiles and rails, but it just depends if you like the look of it. I don't care for it, and usually opt for flat panels in my T&G/M&T doors....More of a shaker style door.

Another wood to consider for your stiles and rails is poplar. It mills much easier than maple does.
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Old 06-20-2008, 06:54 PM   #15
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Alright....how's it going? Post some pics if you are able...

J

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