want to remove a header

adyi2948 · 09-07-2010, 01:24 AM

helping a friend remodel a story and 1/2. we took out the opening between the kitchen and small dining room it had a had a 5' door opening with 2' foot walls on each side, the header that's in there is a doubled 2x10 running the whole length, he wants a smooth transition or at worst a small header and smooth walls. I don't think its a supporting wall, runs parallel with the second floor joists. the work is odd, the header sits under two 2x4s running flat with plywood sandwiched between. I'll try for a picture if that helps. Can this come out?

**oh'mike** · 09-07-2010, 07:22 AM

Need that picture---or get someone on site with structural knowledge.--M--

Daniel Holzman · 09-07-2010, 08:47 AM

Someone went to a lot of trouble to install a pair of 2x10's sitting underneath a sandwich beam of 2x4's. Why anyone would do this for a non-load bearing wall is mysterious. I would thoroughly and carefully review your belief that this is a non-load bearing wall. This requires hands on investigation, cannot be done over the internet.

epson · 09-07-2010, 08:52 AM

^^^My sentiments exactly^^^

adyi2948 · 09-07-2010, 07:37 PM

the picture may help. hope link works
I was wrong on a few items. 1. the joists do run perpendicluar to the wall. 2. the layout is the 2x10 header then two runs of plywood, then two 2x4s laying flat. The ply and 2xs seem to be more about filling the gap then structure. leaning to remove and install a 2x6 header closer to the ceiling.
http://www.diychatroom.com/attachmen...1&d=1283902582

Daniel Holzman · 09-07-2010, 07:44 PM

OK, so back on Broadway. You have a load bearing header, consisting of a pair of 2x10's with a filler above. Unless you are a structural engineer, know a structural engineer who is willing to do the analysis for you, or plan to hire a structural engineer, DO NOT replace a pair of 2x10's with a pair of 2x6's. That header appears to have been designed with a purpose, let's give the installer some credit, they might have known what they were doing, and perhaps sized the beam appropriately. Reducing to a pair of 2x6's will reduce strength drastically, and could lead to failure.

hookit · 09-08-2010, 12:08 PM

If you go with a const. grade glulam (31/2 or 51/2 x 6 inch) it should work if its just floor load you are talking about. I would for sure check out the the bearing points BELOW the cripples to determine why they framed in the sides. It appears to me the framer did NOT know what he he was doing, plywood strips laid flat are a no no for point loads, why not cut the cripples the right length? Oh'Mike had it right, to get it right you need structural knowledge on site.

jcalvin · 09-08-2010, 04:40 PM

be best to deal with what you have. put in some arches on either side of it if you have the room. taking out a header is more than you want to deal with. that header is supporting a load somewhere and you don't want to remove it unless your remodel plans is to convert the 1 1/2 story into a ranch.

adyi2948 · 09-08-2010, 07:11 PM

thanks all