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Old 07-18-2007, 07:06 AM   #16
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WAINSCOTTING With BEAD BOARD


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.....why not install the 1/2 bead board and modify the cap rail , leave the 1/2 sheet rock off the bottom ?
Sure, you can do that. I would suggest that before you go and pick up a large load of all the materials, that you do a "Test run install" on a small area to see how it all lines up and how it looks.
If everything checks out, then pick up the rest of the materials for the job (or get it delivered)....
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Old 07-18-2007, 07:12 AM   #17
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WAINSCOTTING With BEAD BOARD


will do , good advice

thanks again


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Old 09-10-2007, 09:19 PM   #18
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WAINSCOTTING With BEAD BOARD


This thread is very helpful and I am just about ready to start my project. I have a question someone might be able to help with.

I am instailling bead board (strips) wainscotting on a finished wall. I measured the bead board strips at the lumber yard today and they look like they are 5/8" thick. The existing baseboard and window casing is 3/4" thick.

What should I use to trim out the base of the bead board (on top of the baseboard) and around the windows?

I'm soooo confused. Thanks!
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Old 09-10-2007, 10:32 PM   #19
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WAINSCOTTING With BEAD BOARD


To trim out the bottom just use any base like you would on any other wall on top of the coating. Or maybe a 1x6 w/a type of base cap pinned on top of the 1x for detail.
But if you really wanted to be cool you could run your base first with a wider 3/4 thin top lip on top to start yout wayne's boards from.

I.E.-use plain 1x6 base on bottom with a 1x2 top lip (layed flat on top of the 1x6 base to define the end of the base board and the start of the coating w/a diff in depth), make shure to chalk a good line on the wall to make shure the base is straight to get a good starting point, then butt the coatig to the 1x2 lip.

Now, as far as the top and getting it around the window.
Take what ever style you choose to "cap off" the top of the coating and just litterally take it down the window, accross the bottom and up the other side of the window making a "U" shape to get past the window. And take your time. hehe.

Also, if the wayne's boards are not EXACTLY!!!! all the same hieght at the top, dont beat yourself up cause the top cap of the coating will cover it all up.

Hope this helps and best of luck.
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Old 09-10-2007, 11:02 PM   #20
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So just "butting" the bead boards on top of the 1x6 baseboard will be clean enough to not need any trim over the bottoms of the bead boards?

As for the window, I don't think I understand your suggestion. Are you saying to run the cap molding around the window? The window casing is 3/4" thick and the bead board is 5/8" thick which only leaves 1/8" or so to work with.

Thanks.
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Old 09-10-2007, 11:29 PM   #21
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WAINSCOTTING With BEAD BOARD


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So just "butting" the bead boards on top of the 1x6 baseboard will be clean enough to not need any trim over the bottoms of the bead boards?

As for the window, I don't think I understand your suggestion. Are you saying to run the cap molding around the window? The window casing is 3/4" thick and the bead board is 5/8" thick which only leaves 1/8" or so to work with.

Thanks.

Ya i think it would be tight enough, as long as unless your boards are NOT widder than 1x6's. You still would want to use glue to assure things stayed tight too. But i would only butt them if you ussed the 1x2 lip on top of the base boards though. ITs was just a sugestion. Laying base directly over the coating works fine, sont get me wrong, i just dont like seeing all the spaces between the coating grove's and the base IMO. And if its the thick style BB i think it ussually has some pretty deep groves to it.

As far as the window goes, yep thats exactly what i mean. Run it right around the bottom half of the window. Its kinda a pain but with the thickness of your beadboard theres not a ton of options to work with.
Im not shure what exactly your plans are but if your gonna putt some kinda top trim on the beadboard that is gonna put your thickness past the window trim anyway. If not, by all means, just die it right to the window casing if your lucky enough to get away with it.
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Old 09-17-2007, 06:25 AM   #22
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WAINSCOTTING With BEAD BOARD


I'm just taking a project like this on too and have a question. I have lath and plaster in my bathroom and want to put some TNG, board and bead, whatever people call it, on the walls. I've been pondering how it gets attached since the strips are of course too narrow to all go on studs.

Last time I had this done I don't recall the carpenter doing anything but gluing and nailing but then I can say I was paying really close attention either. One place I looked said to run wood strips horizontally on the walls, nailed to the studs and then nail the TNG to that. After reading here about the trims, it now occurs to me that strips would mean I have a gap when it comes to the chair rail (which fits perfectly over the TNG as it is).

Can I just use the silicone and nails right into the plaster to hold it instead of the horizontal strips?
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Old 09-17-2007, 07:27 AM   #23
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WAINSCOTTING With BEAD BOARD


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Originally Posted by Dusty View Post
I'm just taking a project like this on too and have a question. I have lath and plaster in my bathroom and want to put some TNG, board and bead, whatever people call it, on the walls. I've been pondering how it gets attached since the strips are of course too narrow to all go on studs.

Last time I had this done I don't recall the carpenter doing anything but gluing and nailing but then I can say I was paying really close attention either. One place I looked said to run wood strips horizontally on the walls, nailed to the studs and then nail the TNG to that. After reading here about the trims, it now occurs to me that strips would mean I have a gap when it comes to the chair rail (which fits perfectly over the TNG as it is).

Can I just use the silicone and nails right into the plaster to hold it instead of the horizontal strips?
This may help you:

http://www.homebuyerfunds.com/improv...ainscoting.htm
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Old 09-17-2007, 08:33 AM   #24
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WAINSCOTTING With BEAD BOARD


Thanks those are nice and clear instructions.
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Old 09-25-2008, 05:42 PM   #25
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Hi Hardhattg-- Have you thought of using the wallcovering that looks like beadboard and is also paintable. We used it in our kitchen and it came out pretty good.!!!!!
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Old 09-25-2008, 05:44 PM   #26
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Hi Hardhattg-- Have you thought of using the wallcovering that looks like beadboard. You can also paint this wallcovering. My husband & I used it in our kitchen and people cannot tell the difference.!!!! It was alot cheaper than regular beadboard.
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Old 09-25-2008, 06:18 PM   #27
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WAINSCOTTING With BEAD BOARD


Speaking of bead-board, I will be replacing the bead-board ceiling of my 2-story front porch soon. Its about 34' wide, and (by counting) 38 boards deep. These are the old 1"X4" T&G bead-boards. Half of the boards are in bad shape, and about a third of them were replaced years ago with regular boards (not bead-board). I'd like to keep as much of the originals as possible, but I would have to have every piece of wood milled special to match, which is the reason why I will be replacing all the ceiling.

Since the porch is 34' wide, is is critical for the ceiling to be perfectly level? The house has settled a bit over the years, along with the porch. There may be some areas that just don't line up with the rest of the ceiling. Any suggestions?

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Old 09-25-2008, 06:26 PM   #28
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You guys are resurrecting an old thread...A year old!

Bofusmosby, I'd suggest that you post a new thread with your question about your porch. It'll get more looks and responses than a 3 year old thread will. To answer your question though, short of leveling the ceiling, you don't have any other option than to follow the contours with the T&G beaded boards. They'll easily conform to the wavyness of the ceiling framing.
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Old 09-25-2008, 06:29 PM   #29
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Thank you for your response. You know, I thought about the "old" thread when I was typing it, but figured,, I was too lazy to retype everything! Your suggestion is kinda what I figured. Since its up about 20', it'l be hard to tell any un-evenness.

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Old 02-24-2013, 03:42 PM   #30
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haha.. I've seen some stuff awhile back that was ply with a pine veneer. They put the veneer on and then route the grooves. Boy did that stuff look cheap. I agree with Teetor - buy the strip. It does take a little more time and a bit more costly - but it's still pretty easy to put up. Get a chair rail with a dado in the backside and it's very simple to cut in.
I do have this in my bath. Can it be painted, as it has gotten yellowish over time?
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