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Old 04-10-2004, 10:41 AM   #1
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WAINSCOTTING With BEAD BOARD


I'm about to start working on our nursery and I want to install a bead board wainscotting.

Any suggestions on what steps I should take?
Also, should I use bead boards or ply-bead? Which is eaisier to install and which one looks the best?

Thanks

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Old 04-10-2004, 07:01 PM   #2
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WAINSCOTTING With BEAD BOARD


IMHO Nothing beats the real thing for appearance, it is also the most expensive and time consuming. The box stores sell packages of 3/8" T&G that looks like two boards put together, this is twice as fast to install and less expensive. I have yet to see plywood that looks like anything other than plywood, some of the worst just has grooves cut into it and no contour at all. All of the plywood that I have seen is also thin and contours the wall which is usually not flat and is a dead giveaway plus trying to hide the joints is nearly impossible. I replace a lot of ply.

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Old 04-11-2004, 12:10 AM   #3
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haha.. I've seen some stuff awhile back that was ply with a pine veneer. They put the veneer on and then route the grooves. Boy did that stuff look cheap. I agree with Teetor - buy the strip. It does take a little more time and a bit more costly - but it's still pretty easy to put up. Get a chair rail with a dado in the backside and it's very simple to cut in.
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Old 04-11-2004, 12:32 AM   #4
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WAINSCOTTING With BEAD BOARD


I'm a little confused as to what you are calling bead board. Are you talking about F.R.P. If you don't know what that is it is Fire Retardant Paneling, it is what you see in public restrooms, the textured plastic paneling. I'd throw my 2 cents in but I want to make sure I know what you are talking about first.
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Old 04-11-2004, 01:54 AM   #5
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WAINSCOTTING With BEAD BOARD


Bead board is typically 3/8" plywood with a linear pattern "routed" into it at 2" or similar spacing. The routed portion is typically shaped like a bead or half round.
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Old 04-11-2004, 06:46 AM   #6
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WAINSCOTTING With BEAD BOARD


Thanks hatchet. I get confused sometimes. I still use terminalogy from the mid-west and I tend to get looked at funny here in the south west. Just wanted to make sure that I was on the same page.

Since I am on the same page, I would have to agree with Teetor on this. Wow that must have been the shortest 2 cents I ever put in.
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Old 04-11-2004, 02:07 PM   #7
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The old bead board aka board and bead was solid wood, this was way before plywood. Most of it was made prior to lumber standardization so it comes in all thicknesses and widths. The most common thicknesses run from 3/4 - 12" and everything in between. I almost always have to have repair pieces custom milled. In my experience, it runs about 50/50 between T&G and just being nailed edge to edge.
It was popular for wainscotting for centuries up north and is now making a resurgence. Here, in FL, it was commonly used for interior and porch ceilings and soffit.
Just a little history.
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Old 07-03-2004, 09:59 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hatchet
haha.. I've seen some stuff awhile back that was ply with a pine veneer. They put the veneer on and then route the grooves. Boy did that stuff look cheap. I agree with Teetor - buy the strip. It does take a little more time and a bit more costly - but it's still pretty easy to put up. Get a chair rail with a dado in the backside and it's very simple to cut in.
how do u put up a dado so it goes round a corner? and so it looks good.
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Old 02-08-2005, 11:10 PM   #9
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I did a room in my last house with the 11/32" 48x96" plywood sheets. It took a hell of a lot of prep work and sanding but once I did it and painted it, it looked very good. The plywood sheets are especially good if you have requirements for something other than the height offered by the precut panels.

One thing about the plywood though, I ended up having to resaw and put a rabbet in some edges of the panels that were damaged during transportation back and forth. The "tongue and groove" edges they put on them at the mill are somewhat fragile.

I think it also depends on how you plan to finish the wainscot. I my case, I was going to paint it blue in keeping with the room's decor, so I didn't need top grade materials.
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Old 02-10-2005, 01:08 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by joey_182
how do u put up a dado so it goes round a corner? and so it looks good.
Missed this one.. the dado is in the backside of the chairrail so you never see it. It's only function is to hide the top of the wainscot.
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Old 07-03-2005, 03:24 PM   #11
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Do you use construction adhesive as well as nails when installing?
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Old 07-04-2005, 01:18 PM   #12
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It's a rabbet, not a dado that is cut into the back, bottom-edge of the chair rail. The rabbet fits over the top edge of the wainscotting.

F.R.P. = Fiber Reinforced Panel not Fire Retardant Panel.

Just a little FYI!

You can use construction adhesive, if your planning on never removing the wainscotting. Personally, I use silicone and finish nails. I nail the boards to the joists (every 16".) I locate the studs first and make a mark on the wall just above where the wainscotting goes. These marks will be covered by the cap or chair rail, so it no worry to make the marks.

There are 2 different types of wainscotting. There is T-n-G (Tongue & Groove) and shiplap (the edges half-lap over each other.) Either will work just fine. With the shiplap I run a small bead of silicone & nail at the lap joints as well.

The reason I use silicone, is that if the homeowner ever wants to remove the wainscotting, it won't tear the face paper off the drywall, like construction adhesive does. It prevents a future mess. And the silicone and nails hold really well.

I put a quarter-sized dot of silicone about every 6" down the length of the board, spaced every 8" across the width, and press it in place and nail it off!

Last edited by CarpenterDon; 07-04-2005 at 01:35 PM.
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Old 07-06-2007, 06:50 PM   #13
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newbie here guys and any help offered will be grealty appreciated .

i am redoing our master bath and have completely stripped eveything down to the studs . i have installed sheetrock and plaster on the upper vertical walls ( 48") up from the floor , and the ceiling . The sheetrock was the standard 1/2" green board and the thickness of the plaster . how shall i install wainsscotting ( bead board ) on the bottom ? did i screw up by not installing the sheetrock on the entire wall ? worried about how the thickness of the bead baord and the thickness of the sheet rock will match up ?

thanks guys

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Old 07-06-2007, 09:34 PM   #14
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WAINSCOTTING With BEAD BOARD


Quote:
Originally Posted by hardhattg View Post
newbie here guys and any help offered will be grealty appreciated .

i am redoing our master bath and have completely stripped eveything down to the studs . i have installed sheetrock and plaster on the upper vertical walls ( 48") up from the floor , and the ceiling . The sheetrock was the standard 1/2" green board and the thickness of the plaster . how shall i install wainsscotting ( bead board ) on the bottom ? did i screw up by not installing the sheetrock on the entire wall ? worried about how the thickness of the bead baord and the thickness of the sheet rock will match up ?

thanks guys

hardhattg
Ok, first off, there is the concern of the type of beadboard panels that you plan on using. There is 1/2" and 1/4". The 1/2" is designed to be installed - butted up agains 1/2" sheet rock, with a chair-cap-rail molding installed to cover over the transition.

In the pic below, we installed 1/2" bead board prior to sheetrock. 1/2" S/R was installed on top. The result looks like this ("flush" backside chair rail molding):




Now, in your situation... you should use the 1/4" thick bead-board panels.

(BTW-The key is to snap a LEVEL chalk line at the 4' point, and match the top of your bead board panel to that line. The bottom has alot of forgiveness in it since it is covered by baseboard).

In the case of Plaster being on the top area of the walls vs. 1/2" sheetrock on the lower wall areas: Generally, with modern plaster - You have 1/2" Blue-board sheetrock (for plaster) with a 1/8" thick plaster veneer. (older plaster varies in it's average thickenss to as much as 3/4" or more).
Assuming that you have ''modern'' plaster on the upper wall areas, you will likely end up with an overall thickness difference (new sheetrock vs. existing plaster sections) of about 1/8".
You may have an issue there with 1/8" difference, which may cause the chair-cap molding to sit "off-flush" on the bead-board's top edge. (The solution would have been to use 5/8" S/R on the lower areas).

The other solution now, since the sheetrock is installed, would be to adjust your chair-rail cap molding choices (styles). Basically, go to the mill dept. of your preferred lumber supplier or other place, and purchase sample lengths (12") of various molding stock that could be used as chair-cap rail stock.
Then, break out your table saw, set the depth appropriately for the difference of thickness in the sheetrock (1/2") + bead-board panel (1/4") vs. the assumed 5/8" Plaster. If that is the case, then you would take what is called a "kerf" off the lower end (and back side) of the molding stock to accomodate the 1/8" difference. That 1/8" kerf, would sit over the top edge of the bead board.

Now, if you end up with 3/4" thickness on the new S/R lower wall areas (with the added bead-board), and 3/4" thickness on the top plaster wall areas (older plaster)...then you are allset to use "flush" chair rail stock.

The result should, essentially, still look like the above pic.
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Old 07-18-2007, 07:05 AM   #15
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Atlantic WB


thank you very much for that response but still just a little confused . right now i have nothing on the bottom 48" of the vertical wall . You are suggesting that i install 1/2 " sheetrock and then install 1/4" beadboard ? I understand how you want me to adjust the cap rail but unsure about installing the sheetrock . why not install the 1/2 bead board and modify the cap rail , leave the 1/2 sheet rock off the bottom ?

thanks again greatly appreciated

hardhattg

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