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Old 08-05-2010, 11:47 AM   #1
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Wainscot Opinions/Thoughts...


We're putting up wainscot in the bathroom. Probably using the panel stuff you find at Menards.

Here's the room I'm talking about:



I want to put the wainscot at least up to the window. Would it look best if I brought it up a bit so the chair rail is above the window ledge? Below the ledge? Even with the ledge?

I have a horrible time picturing things in my head and haven't found a good picture out there that had a window without trim and wainscot to reference!

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Old 08-05-2010, 03:27 PM   #2
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If it was mine the wainscot would be 5-6” below the window but if you want it higher set it up so the chair rail butts up to the bottom of the window sill.

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Old 08-05-2010, 04:14 PM   #3
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I might remove the apron that is now beneath the window sill, and run the chair rail in its place, continuing it in one unbroken line on around the room.
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Old 08-05-2010, 04:17 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Willie T View Post
I might remove the apron that is now beneath the window sill, and run the chair rail in its place, continuing it in one unbroken line on around the room.
That was my original thought. I need it to be something simple because my hubby refuses to help...
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Old 08-05-2010, 08:17 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by kristan View Post
That was my original thought. I need it to be something simple because my hubby refuses to help...
Good! That means you can make it better looking than if he was messing around with it.
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Old 08-05-2010, 08:25 PM   #6
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Your cuts are going to be simple 45 degree angles. But you may need to borrow (or rent) a miter saw. This CAN be done with a cheaper hand miter box, but electric makes it much easier.

The only problem you might encounter is where your chair rail will butt up against the door casing. The chair rail end will look odd if it is fatter than the casing when you cut it off. If that turns out to be the case, you will probably come out best with a short angle cut off the face of the chair rail at that juncture. (I can draw you a picture later.)

If there is a medicine cabinet that does not show in the photo, that should be no problem. Just butt a square cut up to the side of the medicine cabinet.
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Old 08-05-2010, 08:30 PM   #7
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Thanks! No, no medicine cabinet, just a mirror. Not sure how I'm going to handle that, but I'll figure it out.

I helped my dad with quite a bit of carpentry, so I kind of know what I'm doing.

We were at Home Depot last night and they have Ryobi miter saws on sale, but I couldn't convince him that we need it.
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Old 08-05-2010, 08:37 PM   #8
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Is the chair rail going to be stainied or simply painted?
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Old 08-05-2010, 08:39 PM   #9
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Before I could justify buying an expensive miter box, I made one like this to use with my skill saw.

(The SKP file version is included in case you have SketchUp and want to look at all sides of the miter box.)

EDIT: The box is now shown with the ability to cut reversed angles without having to take the molding out and turn it around. I never added the extra cutting side... I just turned my wood around. This rendition should make it easier to work with. (6 of one, half dozen of the other. Either will work fine.)
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Wainscot Opinions/Thoughts...-miter-box.jpg  
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File Type: skp Miter box.skp (72.0 KB, 60 views)
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Old 08-05-2010, 10:12 PM   #10
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BTW, here's one way to end a chair rail against a piece of casing molding that is not as thick as the chair rail.

Butt a square cut stick of chair rail against the casing... draw a pencil line down the end of the chair rail, using the casing edge as a guide.

Then cut a shallow bevel, (the red part), on only the front edge of that chair rail, right down the line you drew. 30 degrees usually looks pretty good.

(Tapping <CONTROL> "+" a few times will give you a closer view of these tiny pictures.)
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Wainscot Opinions/Thoughts...-chair-rail-bevel.jpg   Wainscot Opinions/Thoughts...-chair-rail-bevel-2.jpg  

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