Vaulted T&G wood ridge cap

ryanh

When your going to be installing a ridge cap at the top of the vaulted ceiling would it be best to start my boards at the top so i have a nice even top or at the bottom and measure up and hope they line up decent by topedge?

what other options to finish the ridge line up top? using pine t&g 1x6x feet

firehawkmph

Ryan,
Not sure what you mean by ridge cap with t & g pine siding. Are you talking about installing the pine on the underside of your rafters as a finish ceiling? If you are putting up some kind of beam, whether solid or boxed, I would start from the bottom and work my way up. Regardless of which end you start from, it is important to check your measurements every couple of boards. You can make slight adjustments to keep them parallel to the endpoint. You don't want to end up with any notibable tapers.
Mike Hawkins

jlhaslip

I start at the top and have the tongue down for nailing.
It is easier to nail this way, and the ridge is guaranteed to be even.
There is no need for the tongue to be up on an interior wall. Exterior is different where weather can be an issue.
If you are using an 18 gauge pin nailer, use two nails at each rafter location. Nail them at a slight angle 'sideways' (about 15 degrees). A 15 gauge would need only a single nail.
Cut the groove edge from the first ceiling to match the combined roof angle and the cut the second piece to butt into it and have the same exposure.
Prestained and prefinished is the way to go...
If you need further info, let me know and I'll post a drawing.

Check your measurement to the wall edge every couple of feet and adjust the joint tightness to keep the line running straight.

I've done a few square miles of ceiling this way. No issues with them.

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ryanh

Sorry. Ya when i mean ridge cap i mean where the top 2 boards meet you mitre/cut a board to fit up there. I just want the split to be nice.

What kind of diagrams you got? I love pictures

On one side of my vaulted ceiling the wood will just run down and meet up with a drywall wall and have some pine molding to make the transition look nice, but on the other side the ceiling comes down and transitions into the ceiling drywall (no wall). I guess i have to do something fancy with the moulding on that side and have it hang down from the ceiling ?

jlhaslip

Notice how the right hand piece of T&G goes up and the left hand piece butts into it?
If the wood shrinks at all, there is no visible gap up top.

In this example, the roof pitch is 12/12 and the left hand piece is a 90 degree cut, but a different pitch will need to be calculated.

The top pieces should be an equal 'show' on their faces to look right.

Hope this helps.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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jlhaslip

Try again...

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ryanh

Sweet, thanks! Ya i have a 12/12 also. Do you nail through the boards or through the tounge? I have a dewalt cordless angeled nailer. my boards are 3/4" thick i believe.

ryanh

Have a question. When starting at the top ridge. I have all 8' boards. So i will be staggering them 4-8-4. Would i do the opposite on the first row or keep it the same as the other side?

4-8-4
---------------------- < where they meet
4-8-4

My longest span is around 15 feet, then it drops to 12 as i work my way down so either
4-8-3
---------------------------
8-4-3 ??

jlhaslip

nail through the tongue.
the top boards should also be face nailed at the top end. the long boardnails will be covered by the short board if you nail right high on the board.
I would stagger the joints on the starters. Try to get two joists apart if you can.

ie:
8 - 8
4 - 8 - 4

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AtlanticWBConst.

Essentially, its like installing hardwood flooring planks.....but on a ceiling. Much of the installation methods are the same (nailing, staggering, face-nailing, etc).

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- Build Well -

ryanh

So at the vault (top row on each side) do the same pattern to start both rows ? or stager them too?


4-8-4
8-8
------------------------------- < peak
8-8
4-8-4

.etc..