UGH! just realized one of my deck posts is cut too short

nasdaqer

I am building a connected 16x20 deck, and trying to get a lot of it done this weekend. I'm not super handy, but with the help of this forum I was able to finish off most of the basement myself, so a belated thanks to everyone for that.

Here's my current predicament. The deck is 5 feet or so off the ground. I am using 2 x 10 beams and joists, but I just realized that i cut one of the posts too short, by about 2 1/2 inches or so. Its a 4x6 post -- could I just cut a spacer and nail / glue it to the top? Or do I have to pull the post out? The holes are almost 44 inches deep, 12 inches of concrete.

There are 6 4x6 posts.


Thanks all

nasdaqer

Also, I am just setting the post on top of concrete, then back filling with dirt. Does this sound right? I've talked to the city inspector several times, and thats what he's telling me, but my neighbor is having a deck put in by someone, and that guy is telling me NO WAY. Now i'm just totally lost.

Anyone?

handy man88

Generally speaking, most deck builders put the post into the hole and then pour concrete. Or, they use a concrete block and put the post on top of that, which is similar to what you are doing. The first way better ensures that the post will be level.

I think your shorter post can be shimmed. I'd use construction adhesive and lag bolts to secure it in place. The only question is most people cut a rabbit on the top of the post to allow the beams to be bolted directly onto the post to provide both vertical and sideways support. It is not as sound to just lay a beam on top of a post.

AtlanticWBConst.

Personally, I would ditch it and spend the $20.00 or so, on a new post. If you don't, this could be an issue down the road if you ever decide to sell your home - when it is inspected.

Realize also, that this all could be subject to your local code design requirements for deck construction (Requirements for post fastening to beams). You should look into this.

Examples:

See page # 8 (Post to beam requirements):

http://www.ci.lancaster.oh.us/dept/c...%20%201105.pdf

See page 1 under "Support Posts" diagram:

http://nashua.qscend.com/filestorage/51/70/151/Deck.pdf

See page # 11, Figure 22:

http://www.spotsylvania.va.us/emplib...Pages9to12.pdf

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WNYcarpenter

Typically you need to set your footing below the frost level. Code in NY has changed to 42" your area may be different. The only reason to pour concrete around the post is so ice doesn't cause a fence post or something without a load to heave out of the ground. In your case, you don't want your deck to sink. Pour the footing, set your post, frame your deck, then backfill.

Framing before backfill allows you some workability when squaring the structure. You also allow yourself the ability to disregard a miscut without digging the same hole twice.

You want a bigger hole than the size of the post when you pour your footing....12" hole for a 4x6.

AtlanticWBConst.

48" Code depth here with 12" minimum diameter tubes. (for decks)

Side point: We are currently dealing with a problem addition (we did not build) that was put on 48" deep pier footings that heaved-up last winter (due to a high water table, and possibly other issues)
We have a licensed/certified "structural & soil" engineer scheduled to get out to the property next week....... so even if you plan on following code, you still need to check the actual soil, that you are installing your load-bearing footings into.

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RippySkippy

Would you post the engineer's findings after his evaluation? I'm interested to hear his assessment.

AtlanticWBConst.

Sure will....just remind me...

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- Build Well -

Joe Carola

Buy a new post and don't even think of splicing it. That's the worst thing that you can do, especially for a post that's holding up a beam that's holding up your deck.

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Joe Carola