Trimming Fiberglass doors - DIY Chatroom

sjaconski · 10-11-2008, 09:29 PM

My husband and father-n-law installed a fiberglass storm door in the entrance to our home. Everything worked out good except for the fact that the door is about 2-3 inches too long and now that it's installed it takes some force to open and close the door. I won't have too much of a problem but we intend on installing real hardwood floors in the near future and as long as we have this door the hardwood floors will prevent the door from opening. Can we have this door trimmed off on the bottom? And if so how?
Stephanie

Big Bob · 10-11-2008, 11:43 PM

Stephanie,

The mental picture your description paints is a little confusing to me.

Most storm doors are installed on the exterior of the jamb and swing out.
"Real hardwood floors" are typically installed in the interior of a home.

The door is installed ,but "2-3 inches too long".

Can you post a few digital photos?

**AtlanticWBConst.** · 10-12-2008, 10:30 AM

I agree pictures would be helpful, along with more a more detailed description of the issue.

sjaconski · 10-13-2008, 11:36 AM

I'm sorry it is the interior front door which is a six panel fiberglass door. It swings inword. I got that door confused with the storm or screen door. There is no breathing room in between the foyer foor and the bottom of the door where the rubber strip is.

rjniles · 10-13-2008, 08:14 PM

Trimming the door is not an option. The door needs to be totally removed, including the frame. The door and frame needs to be raised in the rough opening high enough to clear the new flooring. This may (and most probably) mean you have to remove and raise the header that frames the rough opening. Not a job for the faint of heart.

sjaconski · 10-14-2008, 10:12 AM

The frame of the door is surrounded by one by fours so we can't get any smaller than that. But my father-n-law did mention raising the door and frame. He didn't sound so excited about it so I'm assuming it's a difficult job? Do you think it's worth the hassale? My only other option would be to have a new door special ordered which would mean I just wasted about $250.00 on this standard door plus the cost of a special ordered door which I heard is not cheap.

rjniles · 10-14-2008, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sjaconski

The frame of the door is surrounded by one by fours so we can't get any smaller than that. But my father-n-law did mention raising the door and frame. He didn't sound so excited about it so I'm assuming it's a difficult job? Do you think it's worth the hassale? My only other option would be to have a new door special ordered which would mean I just wasted about $250.00 on this standard door plus the cost of a special ordered door which I heard is not cheap.

If it was my house I would raise the door even if this means raising the header. I think it would be cheaper than buying a custom door and wasting the $250 you have already spent.

Check to see how much highth you have with you existing rough opening. Remove the inside trim above the door. If you have 3/4 inch or more above the door frame to the header you should be able to raise the door without redoing the header. If not (see below):

Short course (assuming raising header):

Remove door and frame. Remove dry wall to ceiling. Remove header, jack studs and cripple studs. Determine header highth required and cut jack studs to that length. Reinstall header, jacks and cripples. You will probably have to cut back the exterior sheathing and deal with any siding issues. Re-drywall and finish. Install filler strip under door the highth of your new finished floor. Reinstall door.

sjaconski · 10-14-2008, 02:59 PM

Thank you so much for all your help. Wish us luck