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Reiche 02-16-2012 10:20 PM

Triming an 1904 house
I have house built in 1904 and the trim in it now is is the tall expensive looking fir. Im planning on remodeling room by room but dont want the fir look but still want it to have the old fashion. I didnt know what hickory would look like. Let me know of ideas. Thanks

joecaption 02-16-2012 10:27 PM

Are you going to paint or stain?
How about a picture.
I've never heard of Hickory trim. Not likly to find it.
Plan on paying at least double for hardwood trim.

Reiche 02-16-2012 10:32 PM

I want stained trim but i dont like fir. From the people i talk to around here they say dont trim it like a new house even though all new of everything is going back in.

joecaption 02-16-2012 10:43 PM

What's your budget? Before you make your final decision may want to go to a real lumber yard (not Loes or HD) and check pricing and get some info on profiles.
If you go with hardwood and stain it what your going to pay for just one room you could have done three rooms in painted MDF or pine.
They may have to special order it for since it's so expencive and rarely used so most places do not stock it.

oh'mike 02-17-2012 03:38 AM

Pictures would help----Poplar and oak as available in most profiles----If you wish to keep the antique look the trims are still being made---look under 'millwork'

A top trim carpenter can duplicate almost any profile you can dream of and afford.

cleveman 02-17-2012 04:47 AM

I started making trim for a turn of the century home I gutted and remodeled years ago.

I had access to a lot of white oak at $1/board foot. I think it is up to $2/board foot today. You'll want to find such a source. Of course it is rough cut, so you'll need to plane it down.

This is how I ended up with a lot of 7/8" thick white oak.

I went with 4" baseboard with a simple round-over on the top. I used the post to post system with inside corner posts, posts where a splice would be made, and outside corner posts. I made the corner posts out of some 8/4 stock which I also made all the interior doors out of.

As for the window and door casing, I made these out of 4" wide stock as well, with two "flutes" and each side rounded over. Spent a lot of time sanding down those flutes with sandpaper wrapped around a small piece of pipe. Now instead of posts, use corner blocks for your corners, and plinth blocks for the bottom of the door trim. You can get a rosette cutter to make your rosettes. For a plinth block, I just had a bit of a chamfer on the edges. The rosettes and plinth blocks should stand a bit proud of the trim, at least try to get the chamfers above the trim.

The first time I did this, I doweled all the pieces together, then put 3 coats of poly on everything, then installed. So If you have a 3wx4h window, you would have a 3x4 rectangle or frame, and you just slap that on the window.

The second time, and times thereafter, I just cut my pieces a bit long, prefinished everything, including the plinth blocks and rosettes, cut the pieces to exact length, then doweled and glued everything together. I was worried about gluing the polyed rosettes and plinth blocks to the raw ends of the other pieces, but it seems to work fine.

That's all there is to it. It's just a lot of wood and a lot of time. You will want to use the same wood for your window jamb extensions as well. I also just make my own jambs for bi-fold doors, etc. It seems a bit crazy to have 4 9/16 wide white oak boards for jambs on a closet door, and I'm sure you would be looking at over $100 per opening on a 5' bi-fold, but when the wood is available in the shop for $1/board foot raw, I use it up.

good luck.

jaydevries 02-22-2012 06:44 PM

2 1890 homes i have remodeled had stacked trim a 1x8 then a profiled piece on top of it here is a link of just one profile this lumber yard offers that would look good stacked on top of a 1x?

and yes they do have hickory and the one job i used it on we clear coated it to match cabinets and it looked awsome

user1007 02-22-2012 07:58 PM

I am confused. Is it the grain or something of the fir you do not like or the color it is stained? You can strip the finish and stain it something else. The bad news is with soft grain woods, you will have to stick with the color that gets stuck in the grain or go darker. Gel stains can help even things out.

Many old houses used to have hardwood trim on the first floor the public saw and then pine or fir upstairs were the family slept and so forth. This scheme kind of goes with historic houses so do not be too quick to change.

Hickory is beautiful but hard to find in long lengths you would need for door and window trim and it will cost you $$$$. It is beautiful with just a light blending stain and poly for kitchen cabinets to go with stone counters. It is very hard wood so you will need appropriate tools and blades to deal with it. I have never seen it used for door or window trim. Doesn't mean it hasn't been.

As mentioned a mill can probably crank out whatever you want shape wise in whatever wood makes sense. A good cabinet maker or finish carpenter with machines to cut the shapes can too. For a price.

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