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12-17-2011, 07:21 PM   #1
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Let me say this first I am a complete novice when it comes to stairs and risers! over the years I have done a lot carpentry and my partner in this remodeling project has build several houses.
Are project is replacing carpeted stairs with Red Oak stairs and risers. the stairs lead to the second floor living area. there are 16 stairs that are in an enclosed hallway with no access.
Are problem is that after the carpet from the exsisting stairs was removed. We found that the stringers (3) are designed to meet code with 3/4" plywood. the finished rise on each stair is 7 3/4" tread depth is 10".
We have purchased 1" x 11 1/2" x 36" red oak treads and 3/4" risers. First
We are going to remove the existing treads and risers!!
My question is what is the best way to rework the rise to meet code the new 1" height of the treads. 1" treads will give us an 8" rise?

12-17-2011, 07:29 PM   #2
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The first rise, on the bottom, will have that extra 1" ripped off.
Just that one.
Now it will follow the correct rise all the way up.
(the risers go behind the treads)

Sent from a Samsung Galaxy S2

Last edited by titanoman; 12-17-2011 at 07:31 PM.

 12-17-2011, 08:35 PM #3 Member     Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Louisville Kentucky Posts: 2,099 Rewards Points: 84 The 1" treads will give you a 8" rise for the first step and a 7.5" rise for the last step because of the greater thickness. Assuming the flooring is going to remain the same on both floors the only way to make all the rises equal is to take ĵ" off of each stringer where the treads attach.
12-17-2011, 08:42 PM   #4
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by Msradell The 1" treads will give you a 8" rise for the first step and a 7.5" rise for the last step because of the greater thickness. Assuming the flooring is going to remain the same on both floors the only way to make all the rises equal is to take ĵ" off of each stringer where the treads attach.
NO! Don't do dat!
What are you talking about?!
Are you trying to get this guy to ruin an unGodly expensive box of oak?

Are your new risers between 7 and 8 inches? You didn't say.

That's why I made it a point to say the riser goes behind the tread.

Last edited by titanoman; 12-17-2011 at 08:58 PM.

12-17-2011, 09:46 PM   #5
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by titanoman NO! Don't do dat! What are you talking about?! Are you trying to get this guy to ruin an unGodly expensive box of oak? Are your new risers between 7 and 8 inches? You didn't say. That's why I made it a point to say the riser goes behind the tread.
I said to take the ĵ" off of the stringers! I said nothing about cutting that treads or risers! since the new tribes are ĵ" thicker than the old ones where they attach needs to be ĵ" lower to maintain the same spacing, very simple to figure out.

12-17-2011, 09:56 PM   #6
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by Msradell I said to take the ĵ" off of the stringers! I said nothing about cutting that treads or risers! since the new tribes are ĵ" thicker than the old ones where they attach needs to be ĵ" lower to maintain the same spacing, very simple to figure out.
Oh. I'm sorry. My bad.
The only thing that might need to be cut is a 1/4" off the very bottom riser (which I can tell you is already 3/4" shorter than the rest). The underside of the stringer, the part that rests on the floor.
But that's it. One small cut to the stringer, and an inch off the bottom riser.

And my apologies again.
Maybe I'll read stuff closer from now on and not make a jackass of my self.

Last edited by titanoman; 12-17-2011 at 10:04 PM.

12-17-2011, 10:14 PM   #7
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by titanoman Oh. I'm sorry. My bad.
No problem!
Quote:
 scored an The only thing that might need to be cut is a 1/4" off the very bottom riser (which I can tell you is already 3/4" shorter than the rest). The underside of the stringer, the part that rests on the floor. But that's it. One small cut to the stringer, and an inch off the bottom riser.
Are you saying to come up the ĵ" off a very bottom of each stringer and then remount the stringers lower or to take the ĵ" also toppled the stringer where the tread mounts? If the latter you'll need to do it to each one all the way up.

12-17-2011, 10:25 PM   #8
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by Msradell No problem! Are you saying to come up the ĵ" off a very bottom of each stringer and then remount the stringers lower or to take the ĵ" also toppled the stringer where the tread mounts? If the latter you'll need to do it to each one all the way up.
Your very bottom riser, the one sitting on the floor, needs to be 1" smaller than the rest (right now it's 3/4" less)
That's the only cut to the 3 stringers.
And your bottom oak riser needs to be ripped down to 6
3/4" (the op said they had 7 3/4" risers right now).
Oh. PS: that will put your steps out of level 1/16" OF 1/4".
Your option is to rip those out and buy new 2 x12's. The ones you have cannot be re-cut.
That makes them the same as what they are now (code).

Last edited by titanoman; 12-17-2011 at 10:33 PM.

 12-17-2011, 10:53 PM #9 Disabled wood vet     Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: California Posts: 1,661 Rewards Points: 1,004 Msradell: I Drew this out. I think the other guys right. I was trying to find the easy way. To not cut every one, the bottom needs to be cut like I said. But also, and this is the easy way (lol), the top of the stringer needs to.be dropped the 1/4" as well. That puts them level again. Sorry to the other carpenter. I feel stupid. And tired. Goodnight. Sent from a Samsung Galaxy S2
 12-17-2011, 11:19 PM #10 Member   Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 992 Rewards Points: 506 Deleted.
 12-18-2011, 01:49 PM #11 Newbie   Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Brentwood, CA Posts: 23 Rewards Points: 10 Actually, the stringers just need to have 1/4" cut off the very bottom, and then everything else will fit together without a problem when the stringers are dropped the 1/4".
12-18-2011, 02:54 PM   #12
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by Robert Vogt Let me say this first I am a complete novice when it comes to stairs and risers! over the years I have done a lot carpentry and my partner in this remodeling project has build several houses. Are project is replacing carpeted stairs with Red Oak stairs and risers. the stairs lead to the second floor living area. there are 16 stairs that are in an enclosed hallway with no access. Are problem is that after the carpet from the exsisting stairs was removed. We found that the stringers (3) are designed to meet code with 3/4" plywood. the finished rise on each stair is 7 3/4" tread depth is 10". We have purchased 1" x 11 1/2" x 36" red oak treads and 3/4" risers. First We are going to remove the existing treads and risers!! My question is what is the best way to rework the rise to meet code the new 1" height of the treads. 1" treads will give us an 8" rise?
The man said several things that should have us thinking, not just telling him what to be cutting off the stringers.

First of all, it's a remodeling job. This suggests the possibility of either or both of the floors involved being altered (changed out for something different) That needs to be determined before any advice to begin cutting stringers is given.

Secondly, he stated that this is a long staircase, (about 10' high?), and that it is within an "enclosed hallway with no access". This gives rise to the possibility, remote as it is, that this could be a "boxed" staircase, not "open" (cut) stringers at all. We need to know this.

There was some talk about risers on top of the treads or behind them. Well, all we have heard is that the "tread depth is 10"..." Is that the tops of the treads now showing, or is that the actual cut portion of the stringers? (again, only 'assuming' these are, indeed, cut stringers) He has already purchased 11.5" treads, so we kind of have to know something more definite about where they will be sitting. Admittedly, not a big deal that can't be worked around, but we still should have the information in mind.

What is the nosing overhang? What does he need it to be with the new setup?

We don't even have any idea if he is able to work within this "enclosed hallway with no access" to get the stringers out so he can remount them lower. All he talked about removing were the treads and risers. He may have no idea how to get the stringers out, thus cutting each one in place could be a necessity in his situation.

And there might be one or two other existing situations we don't know about, or that I have overlooked.

I'm just typing this to caution against our sometimes over-zealous desire to give information without investigating the project.
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Last edited by Willie T; 12-18-2011 at 03:07 PM.

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12-18-2011, 04:05 PM   #13
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Quote:
Willie is dead on.
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 12-18-2011, 06:32 PM #14 Stairguy     Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: New Bedford, MA Posts: 737 Rewards Points: 508 If your taking off 3/4" treads and replacing them, why didn't you buy 3/4" treads. but anyway, depending on your setup like Willie mentioned, the best way to do this is to take down the rough stringers and cut a 1/4" off the floor cut of each then re attach them. But it's likely you have a ceiling attached to them so you will need to leave them in place. In this case you do not need to cut every rise and run over again. Instead start on the fourth step and cut a 1/16th off and then work your way to the third step and cut and 1/8th off and then to the second and take off 3/16ths. So the first 4 steps the rises will be off by 1/16th, which is not only within code, but will never be felt as your walking up the stairs.The same will need to be done at the top.
12-18-2011, 08:34 PM   #15
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A number of Internet references to the International Building Code show a 3/8 inch tolerance in uniformity of stair riser heights.

So you coudl get away with trimming 1/8 inch off of the bottommost step ont he stringer and 1/8" off of the stringer step just before the top landing. Then only two stringer step tops need modification.

The resuilt is the first two steps being 7-7/8" high instead of 7-3/4" and the last two steps being 7-5/8" instead of 7-3/4".

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