tongue and groove porch R&R

rojk68 · 04-02-2011, 08:49 AM

I'm replacing my entire front porch using 3' 1/8" wide fir planks. These are the exact type of boards I'm removing. The old porch was painted w latex paint and ended up rotting out--though I thought I kept on top of it--I dont want this to happen to the new wood. The local advice I'm getting is seal entire board with oil base primer (I'm told tongue and groove should be assembled with the primer wet to help seal joint) Then cover top and end with 2 coats of armorseal tread-plex from Sherwin W. (which is latex based). Should I make the tongue and groove joint tight or leave some room for expansion (this will be an April project in Pennsylvania--I plan on priming entire planks then moving them outside to an unheated shed for a week to acclimate (then applying the primer again to the joints as I install the planks). Can I use my 16 ga nailer or must I use the hammer in twist nails recommended by the lumber yard--the project is not big enough to justify renting a nailer -- 6'x30'. Any thoughts?

Ron6519 · 04-02-2011, 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rojk68

I'm replacing my entire front porch using 3' 1/8" wide fir planks. These are the exact type of boards I'm removing. The old porch was painted w latex paint and ended up rotting out--though I thought I kept on top of it--I dont want this to happen to the new wood. The local advice I'm getting is seal entire board with oil base primer (I'm told tongue and groove should be assembled with the primer wet to help seal joint) Then cover top and end with 2 coats of armorseal tread-plex from Sherwin W. (which is latex based). Should I make the tongue and groove joint tight or leave some room for expansion (this will be an April project in Pennsylvania--I plan on priming entire planks then moving them outside to an unheated shed for a week to acclimate (then applying the primer again to the joints as I install the planks). Can I use my 16 ga nailer or must I use the hammer in twist nails recommended by the lumber yard--the project is not big enough to justify renting a nailer -- 6'x30'. Any thoughts?

When I renovated an old farm house porch 15 years ago, they had 2 1/4" doug fir flooring. We replaced it with the same flooring. We primed all sides with an oil primer and top coated with a Benj Moore porch paint. The flooring was installed dry and tight and then top coated. Looks the same today as it did 15 years ago.
Ron

mrgins · 04-02-2011, 03:08 PM

2 1/4 seems to be the standard that I've used. I would dry it out first, then prime, then install tight to each other with galv trim head screws angled thru the tongue. I suggest predrilling too

rojk68 · 04-03-2011, 09:55 AM

OK, thanks guys for your input

Rich · 12-14-2012, 05:47 PM

I know this is an old thread but see mention of 2 1/4" plank flooring. Having trouble finding in my area. Anyone know of a good source short of having custom milled? Looking to repair/replace the porch boards on our 160+ year old home.

Maintenance 6 · 12-17-2012, 03:32 PM

Porch flooring in Pennsylvania is(was) typically straight grained red fir. Mostly 2-1/4 wide. Not readily available anymore and oh my god expensive. Nail it tight through the tongue with galvanized flooring nails. It won't shrink much if it was properly dried.

Duckweather · 12-17-2012, 08:32 PM

Or Douglas fir if you can find it. That's what wooden gutters were made from and they lasted if maintained.

Rich · 12-19-2012, 10:36 AM

But no ideas of any suppliers?