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ragaffner 09-24-2012 01:24 PM

tongue and groove ceiling
 
When installing the ceiling should I cut them into random lengths similar to a wood floor. I have eight foot lengths a run is about 23 feet.

NHtransplant 09-24-2012 01:47 PM

I have a T&G ceiling in my home and looking at it I can see that the joints are "random" and it looks good. I never noticed it which I guess means it looks good.
I would say to pick a few different lengths (2', 4', 6', 8') to start at one end and go from there. At the least I would cut some boards to 4' and alternate the beginning of each run between the 4' and 8' piece so the joints don't line up to the run right next to it.

ragaffner 09-24-2012 02:01 PM

Thanks, that is what I was thinking.

notmrjohn 09-24-2012 03:08 PM

Just plan your first run so you don't have a one foot or shorter piece at end. Start your next run with what's left from last piece and after a few rows of making sure you don't have a short end piece, and using varying cut offs to start, they should start staggering themselves. Just look out for an obvious repeating pattern. Every 6th row starts with same length etc.

hand drive 09-27-2012 08:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ragaffner (Post 1016479)
When installing the ceiling should I cut them into random lengths similar to a wood floor. I have eight foot lengths a run is about 23 feet.

Just as hardwood is laid out, stagger the joints for the ceiling board. no closer than 6" staggered is standard though 2" staggered is normal...

stubborn1 09-29-2012 08:15 AM

Along with the random length suggestions, leave any splice on a rafter so you can nail in both ends of the boards. I recently did a 1x8 T&G ceiling/walls in my living room and the boards can have a little bit of warp to them, so ending/starting on solid framing is critical. May seem obvious, but I thought I would point it out anyway.

hand drive 09-29-2012 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stubborn1 (Post 1019847)
Along with the random length suggestions, leave any splice on a rafter so you can nail in both ends of the boards. I recently did a 1x8 T&G ceiling/walls in my living room and the boards can have a little bit of warp to them, so ending/starting on solid framing is critical. May seem obvious, but I thought I would point it out anyway.


Wood is always warping, twisting, and cupping. The first run in tongue and groove is the most important as it has to be straight for all of the other t&g boards to follow...

notmrjohn 09-29-2012 10:51 AM

" leave any splice on a rafter" or joist. Good advice, but nail thru tongues, avoid face nailing as much as you can. Can also lead to a joint pattern repeat so pay attention. You may wind up going upstairs and adding some bridging as nailers break joint patterns. If flooling (just invented the word) runs parallel to joists you'll need furring strips, but you knew that. Install wall to wall on proper centers for your planks and some shorter ones spanning at least 3 joists half way between longer ones. While installing planks be aware of where joints are going to be several rows over. Adjust lengths or add nailers to keep butt joints as random as possible.

Seems like I'm overly concerned about joint pattern, but I've seen some jobs where they were glaringly obvious, ruining other wise great job. Picture wallpaper, gift wrap, sheet flooring where repeat is too close, tiles or pavers that imitate stone or wood but not enough wariation in patterns. Lighting on ceiling may make joints show more.


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