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|09-28-2011, 11:56 AM||#16|
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Toronto, Ontario Canada (or bathroom if you have humour)
tiling deck of a 5 ft corner tub level with tub deck
I am a newbie...but I figured out why my pictures never came up.
THEY ARE HERE...NOW THOUGH. WHEW.
SIZING PHOTOS UNDER YOUR 100KB
FIRST IF ANYONE ELSE HAS TROUBLE WITH SIZING PHOTOS TO BE UNDER YOUR 100 KB..FOLLOW THE IDEAS USING IRFANVIEW.THIS WORKS (and thanks to http://www.irfanview.com/ which Dennis Prager suggested to reduce my pictures. AMAZING PROGRAMME AND IT DOES SO MUCH MORE THAT I NEVER EXPECTED. THANKS DENNIS. Took a short time to download the free programme from Tucows and also its plugins.I played around understanding how to use it..but it is great,/wonderful.(My pics were nearly 1000 kb and are now just under 100. In case anyone else has trouble,I opened Irfanview, opened the picture from my computer (desktop) which was about 1000 kb...clicked IMAGE...RESIZE...then,on the right side HALF...RESIZE..OK Now when you click properties it was under the 100 kb that your site needs (my camera is a tiny Canon Digital Elf 12 zoom (also amazing pictures from beautiful animals/landscape/or even tiny minerals).
Here is the pic of my whirlpool.(It was an Imperial dismantled from a wall display)The walls are tiled in 1 X 2 ft porcelain similar to travertine.The plumbing works perfectly..and before I tile the box around the wall valve...I am still testing and observing all the piping and even using it before I enclose to make sure no leaks.
I actually did a test tub shower yesterday even before the skirt...oooohhh amazing.
(At least if it leaks I have COMPRESSION FITTINGS ...easy tightening and a blessing for the DIY. I also made sure to add compression fitting SHUT OFFS at the wall in an access panel just inside the tub. This will have a tile held in place by magnetic tape attached to a wood frame..and then a matching magnetic tape all around the edge of the 1 x 2 ft tile. So if there ever is trouble I simply turn off the water connected to the tub and laundry area without affecting the rest of the house. Not all DIY are aware you use two wrenches..one holding the body while the other tightens the nut. Also not all know that once you fully tighten..if you take it apart and then reuse the old tiny compression ring it may not seal completely.You need only to remember to take off the tiny gold compression ring and put in a fresh one (which they sell in tiny packages). Even experienced plumbers love them. (I also know how to "sweat" and I work as a hobbyist in silver and precious metals and cut and polish stone, and stained glass) The wall valve has a diverter on the plate which goes a short distance to a round chrome and brass fitting called an "elbow".I knew I had seen these and described them to several Big Box stores but did not know what they were called. They also had no idea what I was describing (seven actually) One went on line with me into special orders and I found a picture...up to 10 days wait..special order..over $40. but I walked into Rona and found a $12 Rainbow brass/chrome elbow right on the shelf. So..yes I have a hand held shower both for me and cleaning the tub.The tub has 3 leaf clover shape evenly deep (no raised seat like some) and because of the depth and huge size it is easier to control the hand held shower spray.
I am leaving a space...8 ft long and 1 ft wide between one 5 ft side of the tub and the wall. My tiles are 1X2 ft so there will be 4 long tiles along the wall but I want them level with the flat deck of the tub.
I wanted a different way of sending water to the tub. I found a website with waterfalls.Then, I cam across a store dismantling their wall displays. I bought twin waterfalls for just over $100 each.They each had two taps for hot and cold.
HOW TO DRILL A HOLE IN AN ACRYLIC DECK (MY FIRST TRY...WAS PERFECT AND EASY)
My problem was..the waterfalls I loved could never reach from the tiled deck into the tub which meant I needed to learn how to drill the deck holes into acrylic which I had never done...what size and how. I got many different opinions and several warnings that I could destroy the deck. Then one person brought the light...and believe me...my fear was for nothing...with right tools and right advice. I already had a twenty five year old Skil drill. I bought a 1 1/4 inch HOLE SAW intended for metal wood and PLASICS. First I traced simply with pencil ..lightly outlining the size and location for the 2 taps and 2 waterfalls. I used a drill bit to drill a hole in the centre which would give the skill saw a hole to anchor itself while drilling the circle with its teeth..so it wouldn't wander. Some said...use masking tape on the deck then mark on the masking tape and drill the hole through..but I took the chance. I was nervous but now know..it was actuall simple. Straight, gentle and patient was the technique. The skill saw is simply put into the drill like a normal drill bit. It had a round pipe of teeth which cut out a circle. In the centre there is a tiny pole or bit which is longer. That pole or bit begins to drill a small hole in the centre. If you have already drilled a pilot hole right through the acrylic deck, it will stay on target.
I used very little pressure and waited patiently. The material doesn't fly around like dust and gently piles up. It cut the perfect hole easily. (Some had told me it could melt "the plastic" but mine was easy)
I also found twin brass and chrome waterfalls which also were dismantled store displays. Each came with their set of hot and cold taps (I don't use them that way)
THIS IS WHERE I ALTERED THE WAY THE WATERFALLS WORK
I wanted scald protection, hand held shower..and the twin waterfalls (so I could not use the usual tub spout which has the diverter on it). I started looking for a wall valve for tub shower (but with the diverter as part of the valve plate instead of being attached to the tub spout.
Then...also..instead of using the long arm with the shower head screwed on high up, I just wanted the shower hose threaded on a chrome/brass elbow close to the valve and plate..waist high.
Suddenly the perfect idea. On the valve at the bottom (usually goes to tub spout)is where I attached a copper pipe using compression fittings which follows the wall to the waterfall area. First..the water supply branches in 2 directions. One connects to the tap nearest you in the pic and then to the waterfall beside it. The second branch connects to the tap nearest the wall valve and then feeds water to the waterfall beside it. Instead of controlling the temperature..which can be very dangerous if people flush or run water somewhere else...I am PROTECTED FROM SCALDING by the wall valve and simply turn the tap as usual to get the desired temperature, and if someone flushes..no problem. Now each tap only controls how much water goes to each waterfall. I turn on the wall valve first..then I turn on the taps on the deck. I can run both together, or turn off one tap so all the water goes only to one waterfall. But, I can also turn both completely off..using the taps on the deck without changing the water temperature. This is scald guard protection from the wall handle..valve system.When I was imagining this and consulting several "Big Box" stores, several told me this was impossible..that it would take forever for the water to flow to the waterfall..that the valve wasn't intended this way. (Yet scald protection should be primary and this was the perfect solution AND IT DEFINITELY WORKS) I also inslated all my pipes. I wrapped allllll the pipes underneath the deck in the pipe foam (both the hot and the cold pipes...and the braided connector pipes that go to the taps and waterfalls.)
I will still use one of those slider arms than you can mount the hand held on a pole and slide it to different heights. (this way the same hand held can be used in the deck or on the shower floor beside it.
I saw a floor designed the way they do "handicap" shower floors with a shower membrane completely covering the entire floor to the usual basement floor drain and "welded several gray shower membranes together for waterproofing of the concrete floor.
I also bought tiny shut offs for the hand held shower which connect on the hose where the shower handle is (instead of having to go to the wall)
whew I am praying..but it did work. I clicked paperclip...browse found the picture clicked open then upload. then...close window..clicked paperclip, and both pictures are there...Insert alllll. and they popped into my message.
YEAH..should be so much easier from here on.
Now I am nearly finished this entire 25 x 12 foot laundry/bathroom.
WHAT I STILL NEED TO FIGURE OUT
The tub will only touch one wall (where I want tile level with the top deck surface. (This is the part I am trying to figure out, because the tub rim usually sits gently on a tiled deck (waterproofed and durocked underneath).But that would make the tiled surface 2 inches lower than the top of the deck. Can you offer ideas about construction?
Last edited by Blue Falcon; 09-28-2011 at 02:08 PM. Reason: clarification cutting holes in acrylic deck
|09-28-2011, 12:55 PM||#17|
Join Date: Mar 2006
tiling deck of a 5 ft corner tub level with tub deck
Now I've forgotten the question.
I don't see why you couldn't do what you want in a round-about sort of way. The only issue I see is the radius on the tub that I would think you would need to lap-over a little with tile. The corner may be a little challenging.
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