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Tool Junkie 10-09-2007 08:27 PM

Tileing Bathoom Questions
 
Im remodeling my bathoom and Im up to the tileing part. What is the best way to install the tile where the top of the tub hits the wall? Someone at work said to leave a 1/4 " gap between the top of the tub and the bottom of the first row of tiles. His theory is that you can use clear silicone chaulk in this gap to ensure a water tight seal. Does this make sense?

IN addition I also have a window in the middle of the tub wall. There is only a 1 and 1/4" ledge around the enire window. What is the best way to finsih this so it is water tite and looks good?

Thanks to everyone on this web iste for all of your help!:eek:

vinnyb76 10-10-2007 07:46 AM

hello tool junkie,
i think its unnessesary for 1/4" gap myelf but where the bath meets the tile, it is necessary to seal the joins with a silicone rubber caulking. This is necessary as the fitting can move enough to crack a rigid seal, causing the water to penetrate the wall between the bath and the tiling, leading to further complications with dampness and possible leaks to the ceiling below. There are various coloured sealants available to blend in with your fixtures and fittings. They are sold in tubes or cartridges made to deal with gaps up to a width of 3mm (1/8 inch). If you have a larger gap to fill, pack it with twists of soaked newspaper or soft rope. Always fill the bath with water before sealing, to allow for the movement experienced when the bath is being used. If you fail to do this, you will probably find the sealant cracking fairly early on, due to the different stress placed on it from the bath being empty to full. This movement is unlikely in cast iron baths, but definitely needs to be taken into account for most other materials. Alternatively ceramic coving is available or quadrant tiles can be used to edge the bath or shower tray. Plastic strips of coving are also available, which are easy to use and cut to size. It is wise to fit the tiles using water resistant or waterproof adhesive and grout

Ron6519 10-10-2007 10:30 AM

You don't mention what type of tub you have or the wall backing type. Acrylics have a high flange, cast iron a slight ridge.
With cast iron I build the wall out slightly so the concrete board sits in front of the lip and is 1/8" off the tub. I then silicone caulk the gap between the tub and the cement board. Then I tile down to 1/8" above the tub surface and caulk that interface with the tub full of water. Caulking is done after grouting.
With the acrylics I bring the cement down over the flange to within a 1/4" of the tub. The rest is the same.

Tool Junkie 10-10-2007 01:56 PM

Cast Iron
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron6519 (Post 67401)
You don't mention what type of tub you have or the wall backing type. Acrylics have a high flange, cast iron a slight ridge.
With cast iron I build the wall out slightly so the concrete board sits in front of the lip and is 1/8" off the tub. I then silicone caulk the gap between the tub and the cement board. Then I tile down to 1/8" above the tub surface and caulk that interface with the tub full of water. Caulking is done after grouting.
With the acrylics I bring the cement down over the flange to within a 1/4" of the tub. The rest is the same.

Hey Ron,
I have a cast iron tub and I used hardibacker cement board for the walls. So you just use caulk for the gap betweeen the tile and the tub and no grout at that interface? Makes sense, thank everyone for your help.

Stickboy 10-11-2007 08:13 AM

I had similar condition at the window. I tiled the wall first, then got some bullnose (4x12 in my case) and cut it into strips (1-1/2 x 12) to fit on the window sill, sides and head. Left a little gap at the window for caulk, and brought the toe of the bullnose out flush with the tile.
I was leary of the narrow tile strips being too fragile, so I notched the back (scrap) part of the tile with the saw before cutting the strips. Seemed to work well (didn't break any!).

Tool Junkie 10-11-2007 08:55 PM

I had similar condition at the window. I tiled the wall first, then got some bullnose (4x12 in my case) and cut it into strips (1-1/2 x 12) to fit on the window sill, sides and head. Left a little gap at the window for caulk, and brought the toe of the bullnose out flush with the tile.
I was leary of the narrow tile strips being too fragile, so I notched the back (scrap) part of the tile with the saw before cutting the strips. Seemed to work well (didn't break any!).[/quote]

Thanks for the info this what i was planning on doing, when you say you notched the tiles do you mean just on both edges so it would break on the proposed line?

Thanks.
Tool Jumkie

Stickboy 10-12-2007 07:58 AM

Actually, I notched it like this:

----------
| | | | | | <<< this was the scrap piece with notches perpendicular to cut
---------- << cut line
|_______| << this is the bullnose strip


That way when I ran the piece through the saw, the back part broke off in segments and I wasn't dealing with two long strips feeding past the blade. I did also pre-notch the two ends of the cut as well, so the corners didn't break off.

Tool Junkie 10-12-2007 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stickboy (Post 67722)
Actually, I notched it like this:

----------
| | | | | | <<< this was the scrap piece with notches perpendicular to cut
---------- << cut line
|_______| << this is the bullnose strip


That way when I ran the piece through the saw, the back part broke off in segments and I wasn't dealing with two long strips feeding past the blade. I did also pre-notch the two ends of the cut as well, so the corners didn't break off.

I like it! I was also considering ripping down a marble door sill but was concerend it would crack.

Thanks,


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