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Old 10-27-2009, 08:42 PM   #1
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finishing up a new house and im going to install a tounge and groove ceiling. i debating weather to sheat the ceiling first with 7/16 osb or nail it directly to the rafters. the raftes are 24" ocand its cathedral ceiling. any opinions are greatly appreciated, thanks !!!!

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Old 10-27-2009, 09:09 PM   #2
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You'll be okay nailing it directly to the ceiling. The osb would not serve any purpose. If the rafter's don't plane out well you may have to shim a little.

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Old 10-27-2009, 09:17 PM   #3
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i was kinda hopig for this answer, but i just want to do right the first time and not wonder if i shouda did it another way. iv also heard people say not to wory about landing butt joints on a rafter becaus the boards above it and below it will hold the jont , any opinions ?
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Old 10-28-2009, 06:24 AM   #4
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Always land butt joints on solid framing. It helps keeps the joint tight.
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Old 10-28-2009, 07:42 PM   #5
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Always land butt joints on solid framing. It helps keeps the joint tight.
Unless the ends are t+g also, then no need.
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Old 10-28-2009, 08:28 PM   #6
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I'd be concerned my conditioned air leaked through every crack on every board without an air barrier. Contributing to water in the batt glass insulation going to to ridge vent, depositing on the framing and /or kraft paper facing causing mold and rot. Possibly causing the joints to swell and shrink with the heating/cooling. Unless you had spray foam hot roof, even then....
Be safe, Gary
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Old 10-28-2009, 08:49 PM   #7
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gbr, so your saying that even with faced insulation id still need a secondary vapor barrier, ie; the osb. i dont have a problem sheeting it i just want to make sure its neccesary. please fill me with info, anybody!
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Old 10-28-2009, 08:51 PM   #8
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what about using polly under the t&g
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Old 10-28-2009, 09:21 PM   #9
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also the cathedral ceiligs are scissor trusses with faced r38, vented soffit anad a ridge vent the entire length of the roof.
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Old 10-28-2009, 10:45 PM   #10
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No need for osb sheathing, but a vapor barrier is needed. Kraft Faced insulation does tend to get caught in the grooves, but it can be done. I prefer poly (visqueen) for ease of installation.
Narrow boards or end matched boards are fine to install without landing on the joists or rafters.
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Old 10-29-2009, 01:28 PM   #11
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Very cold climate, poly sheeting, all others except gulf, house wraps next to warm side: http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...on?full_view=1
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Old 10-29-2009, 04:22 PM   #12
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finishing up a new house and im going to install a tounge and groove ceiling. i debating weather to sheat the ceiling first with 7/16 osb or nail it directly to the rafters. the raftes are 24" ocand its cathedral ceiling. any opinions are greatly appreciated, thanks !!!!
What is the thickness of the material you're putting up? I wouldn't put up thin material on a 24" span.
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Old 10-29-2009, 09:24 PM   #13
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the thickness of the material.3/4". i think it should be thick enough for a 24" span.
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Old 10-30-2009, 09:06 AM   #14
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the thickness of the material.3/4". i think it should be thick enough for a 24" span.
Just make sure the vapor barrier is in place and the moisture content of the wood is appropriate.
I would seal the backs of this wood to eliminate moisture absorption.
Ron

Last edited by Ron6519; 10-30-2009 at 09:09 AM.
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Old 10-31-2009, 07:08 PM   #15
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I'm installing T&G pine panelling on basement ceiling...do I install the first panel with the T or G out? Do I nail in the T or G?

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