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Druidia 10-14-2011 01:16 AM

Support for cabinet roll-out trays
 
We have Kraftmaid cabinets in our kitchen. My husband (then boyfriend) bought the condo unit several years ago and I moved in here less than a year ago. The first I noticed was that the roll-out trays in the cabinets all had sagging rail supports because the single SHORT screws holding each end of each rail to the cabinet walls have stripped the screw holes. That was quite disappointing. I expected that shelves/trays meant to carry some weight would screw into screw holes with threaded metal inserts. I guess I assumed that because I’m more used to laboratory cabinets and had never looked closely at mass-produced home cabinets before.

I filled in the stripped screw holes and replaced the screws with longer screws. I expected that the same thing (stripped screw holes) would happen over time since weight on the trays + frequent pulling/pushing of the trays would naturally put stress on the screw. So, I “reinforced” by inserting a dowel vertically between each pair of white spacers (top and bottom rails) and putting a small piece of wood between the bottom rail white spacer and the cabinet floor.

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...MG_1932-20.jpg http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...MG_1921-20.jpg http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...MG_1940-20.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...MG_1941-20.jpg http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...MG_1925-20.jpg

My wood shim and dowel supports work as long as the dowels stay in place. The dowels fit snugly but sometimes a pot/pan handle/etc. would bump against it causing it to misalign. When that happens, then the screws have to bear the weight on the trays by themselves and they start getting pulled out.

I am wondering if anyone had similar problems with their cabinet pull-out shelves/roll-out trays and would like to know what you have done to resolve it? I considered clamping the dowels to the wall, gluing the dowels to the spacers or drilling a hole in the spacers so that I can screw the spacer to the dowel (just to keep the dowel from shifting) but I’m also thinking that having dowels there doesn’t look very nice. I don’t have a problem with it but I’m thinking that, when we sell the condo unit, buyers wouldn’t like the dowel-reinforced roll-out trays.

BZWAK 10-15-2011 01:43 PM

Support for cabinet roll-out trays
 
From your pics, these slides should accomodate 100lbs. These can be upgraded. Also I,ve rarely come across spacers, usually direct mount and using both screw holes in front. Slotted one first. Level the rail, pilot in center of slot, screw in, recheck level, check tray sliding action, adjust as needed, then pilot and add screw to one of the other holes. Is that single screw, screwed into one of the shelf peg holes?
Anyhoo, What I would do.
Measure the distance between the back of the spacer & the inside cabinet wall. looks Appx 3/4" ? Cut a length of wood to fit between the spacers from front to back of cabinet. 1 x 2 will do it. Put a little const glue on the back of this "2nd" Rail, slide it between the spacer and cabinet and secure it thru the other hole in the (back end of the spacer) where I can see a provided hole but no screw, into the cabinet. Now screw along the length of the new wood rail @ adequate spacing into the cabinet.
Lastly, you can now screw thru the remaining holes in the metal rail into the new wood rail. Not too tight as to distort the straightness of the metal rail. Sheetrock screws work well. There will be an air gap between the 2 rails but no worries, works great. Dowels go away!:)

gregzoll 10-15-2011 03:21 PM

It is possible, that someone has leaned against the shelves, causing them to pull out of the cabinet. The best way to fix, is use toothpicks and wood glue to fill the holes, then after dried, reinsert the screws back in.

Ron6519 10-17-2011 05:14 PM

These look like 3/4 extension slides. I'd upgrade them to the full extension glides. These require a 1/2" per side to put in. If the trays are 1" less then the width of the opening, they should just pop in. You can have the rear of the mounts screw into the cabinet sides or slide into a bracket that mounts on the cabinet back wall. There's usually more then enough room to install a 3/4" stiffener accross the back for the bracket to attach to.

Druidia 10-20-2011 03:22 PM

@gregzoll: As I mentioned in the original post, I did fill in the stripped screw holes. Although I did not mention that I filled it in the way you described it.

Kraftmaid told me that my roll-out trays hold up to 35 lbs and that a common cause of screws being stripped out of the holes is when the weight is exceeded. The weight (load + weight of tray) that each pair of slides carry is 29.4 lbs (upper pair of slides) and 24.3 lbs (lower). I think Kraftmaid determines their max weight capacity on stationary trays and not on weights/trays that frequently slide in and out.

@BZWAK;
Yes, the single screw is screwed into one of the shelf peg holes. A protruding pin (see 4th photo below) on the spacer fits into another shelf peg hole under the single screw.
The spacers seem to be a fairly common feature in the pull-out shelves' makers' websites that I've been to.

Some more pics of the slides hardware:

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...IMG_1996-1.jpg

Back slide holder:
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...s/IMG_1993.jpghttp://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...s/IMG_1999.jpg


Front spacer, side, top and bottom views
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...s/IMG_1998.jpghttp://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...s/IMG_2000.jpghttp://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...s/IMG_2003.jpg


I was initially planning on attaching ledger strips/boards (borrowed from another pullout shelves' maker's website) under the spacers (front and back). I would need to use two strips of wood, the one against the cabinet wall set lower to accommodate the protrusion (for the plastic pin) at the bottom of the spacer.

However, your suggestion seems simpler to do (wood on side walls only instead of an additional wood on the back wall). Thanks BZWAK.


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