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Stair rail question

5K views 8 replies 5 participants last post by  shimmy25 
#1 ·
Is a 15' run to long for this length of rail. I've got the rail installed but not the
balusters and it seems to have a little side to side movement.


 
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#2 ·
FWIW install a bracket from the handrail to the wall just before it stops and becomes a ceiling...this will 'shorten' the run and should stabalize the whole thing, once you add the ballusters that too will increase the strength as well provided you glue them into the treads and fasten to the handrail
 
#5 ·
Yep.. I agree with Chris, just figure your spacing on the ballusters so the bracket doesnt interfear.
I would suggest putting in the balusters first and then install the bracket. Why do a special layout around something that can be put in later.
Ron
 
#7 ·
What you need to do is to make sure the rail is set so the bracket reaches both the wall and the rail if you don't want a spacer on the wall. Or worse, the rails too close to the wall.
My suggestion was more sequence then detail on the brackets. But see if this makes sense. You figure out the baluster spacing. In the space you want to install the bracket, you put some blue painters tape. You start to install the balusters. When you get close to the bracket position and confirm your plan is correct, you drill pilot holes where the bracket is going to be mounted(wall and rail). After you use your finish nailer(and glue) to secure the balusters up to the bracket location, you take a screwdriver and install the bracket. Then work your way to the top of the stairs installing the balusters.
Ron
 
#8 ·
Yep.. Makes sence to me.. All except the part about the screwdriver?:laughing: Looks like he might be a little more than 1 1/2" away from the wall, so he might need a spacer there. I cant tell if its a plowed rail for square top or flush on the underside for spindle ballusters. If its plowed then he'll have to mount the bracket to the fillit piece between the ballusters.
 
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