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Old 03-14-2011, 04:07 PM   #16
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Don't forget to factor in floor covering thickness If you add the same floor covering to the stairs and upper and lower floors, then you want all the stair treads spaced equally. For example, if your stair treads are going to be simply stained with no added thickness and you install 3/4 inch hardwood on the top floor, you need to make your top step 3/4 inch shorter to compensate.

I think the building code allows no more than 1/4 inch difference between stair height. This is a safety issue.

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Old 03-14-2011, 05:19 PM   #17
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i agree. your question is not very clear. Are you using 4x10's for treads? What is your rise?
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Old 03-14-2011, 09:36 PM   #18
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sorry for the confusion! We are planning to bring the handrail up from the riser 34 inches to the top of the hand rail. Remember, that the photos are of the mock up stairs..we built em to see what we have to do before cutting into the real stuff. The post on the north side of the photo (farthest back) has an extra piece of doug fir sitting on it. Another piece is sitting on landing. we routed out the posts for the stringers to sit into. The rise of each tread is 8 inches on the bottom run and 7 7/8" on top run up to loft.
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Old 03-14-2011, 09:38 PM   #19
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treads are 4 x 10s. we are going to use the extra we have left over to fill in the gap between the treads on the upper run..since angle is less, we have alot more room on the 4x12 stringer, and cant get the 4x10s to align!
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Old 03-15-2011, 12:31 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chulett View Post
The rise of each tread is 8 inches on the bottom run and 7 7/8" on top run up to loft.
Too high my friend. 7-3/4" maximum rise. 10" minimum run. Assuming you're having the work inspected, it will fail.

Handy Andy was close on the allowable variance...it is 3/8".
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Old 03-15-2011, 09:14 AM   #21
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your rise is fine. I work in a stair shop and about 80% of our stairs have a 9" run. But we have a 1-1/8" overhang as well which helps. your run might feel a little short. Our max rise here is 8-1/4". Its all legal here in Mass.
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Old 03-15-2011, 09:37 AM   #22
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It looks like all the states would get together and have the same codes for rise and run but they don't, the best I can remember here in Tennessee the max rise is 8" and run 9 1/2 or 10. Man this getting old is for the birds. I never did like a rise close to 8 inches as us old folks just don't like that high a step, I tried my best to keep my rise around 7 1/2 inches but that is impossible some times. OK I am through now.
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Old 03-15-2011, 10:30 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Millertyme View Post
your rise is fine. I work in a stair shop and about 80% of our stairs have a 9" run. But we have a 1-1/8" overhang as well which helps. your run might feel a little short. Our max rise here is 8-1/4". Its all legal here in Mass.
Run is measured from the nose outward to the end of the next nose, not from the riser to the nose. You need 10" from nose to nose (horizontally) to comply with the International Residential Code, which is the code that the VAST MAJORITY of jurisdictions have been using for the last decade. Having additional nose overhang does not compensate for insufficient run.

As for the aforementioned rise being fine....That's a pretty confident statement considering it flies in the face of the most widely adopted code in place throughout most of north America. Of course there's a chance that the OP's area still has an old code such as CABO in place, but in the interest of giving good advice that's assured to be approved by the AHJ, the 7-3/4" maximum rise measurement is more prudent.
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Old 03-15-2011, 08:01 PM   #24
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You are correct. Wether you measure from nose to nose or riser to riser, you still have the same run, but with an overhang you are using a larger tread. A larger overhang does not make your run larger. I didnt realize i wrote that.
The IBC alone bears no legal statute until it is adopted and adapted locally at which time change to the code can occur. When the inspector comes to inspect, he will follow the local code not IBC. In MA where our stairs are inspected the codes allow for 8-1/4" rise and min 9" run. I believe that RI is the same as we do many stairs there also. I agree that this may not be the most comfortable stair but in order to follow other codes, widths , headroom, etc., these sizes are needed. So I would check with your local code and see what it states.
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Old 03-15-2011, 09:24 PM   #25
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I live in Missouri, and Im in the country, so I dont need to pass any inspections per say. I am in Livingston county...so home inspectors outside city limits..thats why I am turning you all for advise!

going with the information you guys have provided, the actual rise is 7 5/8 and the run will be 12

I did mention the problem of having a gap between the treads didnt I?

with the angle of the stringer, and the 4x10 we are using, the treads will not line up!..we have a 2 inch gap! We are planing to glue and screw a 2" piece to the back of the 4x10 to eliminate the gap.

Is this a stupid idea?
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Old 03-16-2011, 06:55 AM   #26
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You can shorten up your rise and add another tread
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Old 03-16-2011, 11:54 AM   #27
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Please don't let yourself get caught in the trap of just barely meeting code requirements.

I would go beyond saying this is foolish, to the point of calling it 'dumb'.

Although you are 'legal' with only 10" of tread, it can result in a very uncomfortable, and almost dangerous, platform for an adult male's shoe to land upon on the downward trip. Some men with larger feet will experience only about half of their foot solidly placed upon such a short tread. This is not good!

And whereas 7-3/4" inches of rise also keeps you 'legal', it is often far too high for the elderly to safely try to climb.

Same thing with the 6' 8" of headroom. I am 6' 5", and have almost knocked myself out cold from smashing the top of my head into low headroom clearances. In my opinion, go for no less than 7'.
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Old 03-16-2011, 07:44 PM   #28
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You are only allowed to build as the surroundings allow. After looking at the pictures it does not look like you will have the room to add 1 more tread as you will be on top of that outside wall. In a case like yours, and what happens many time when building stairs, is that you are forced to go with a particular design that may not be the best suited. Obvioulsy a larger run will be more comfortable but its not always going to fit. This restricts us to use the limits of the code.
The only way to make those treads align would be to shorten up the overall run of the upper platforms. By adding to the upper header perhaps. This will make the pitch a little steeper and will allow your treads to align better.
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Old 04-09-2011, 10:56 PM   #29
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Ok,

Here are some photos of some very heavy stringers and treads! next will be the newel posts! The stringers and treads going up to the loft weighed bout 900 lbs!
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stair hand rails-unnamed-19-.jpg   stair hand rails-unnamed-20-.jpg   stair hand rails-unnamed-21-.jpg   stair hand rails-unnamed-22-.jpg  
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Old 04-10-2011, 07:52 PM   #30
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it looks great so far. It goes well with the rest of the house. Keep posting those pics!

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