staining cabinets need pro pointers

Chemist1961 · 10-09-2010, 03:10 PM

I have a 4 year old set of Shaker cabinets, maple which seem to be satin blonde finish. I want to add another set of cabinets and darken to a medium brown. Is there a good technique to match the sanded existing and an unfinsed new cabinet.
I had though of sanding the originals then staining the unfinished new set to a matching blonde with first coat, then staining all with second coat to darken all equally.

Ron6519 · 10-09-2010, 10:16 PM

Even if you get the two cabinets to the point they look the same, they won't stain the same. To minimize the different absorption rates, you should condition both cabinets with the stain manufacturers wood conditioner. This is also a good thing to do with maple anyway as it will splotch without it.
Do light coats and wait untill they dry before recoating them. This old/new wood staning can be more art then science.
Ron

Chemist1961 · 10-10-2010, 07:48 AM

I didn't realize there was a wood conditioner available. What about the face trim area on the upper just inside the door. On the based it is solid maple, but uppers are laminate ? wood grain

Ron6519 · 10-10-2010, 09:17 AM

Wood condition everything. Maple veneer is just thin maple. The wood characteristics are the same. Maple , birch, and pine are just some of the woods that absorb stain diferently across their surfaces. Birch can also be used as a veneer on maple cabinets as it's a very close match, color and grain wise.
Ron

PCMLR · 10-10-2010, 08:35 PM

I recently purchased a product called Penofin Verde, which is a penetrating oil finish. It contains no petroleum distillates, has no odor, and is made of Brazilian Rosewood Oil.It comes in many shades and goes on more evenly than traditional stains and finishes. Thirty minutes after application, you wipe off the excess and the results are amazing. Even if not evenly applied, when the excess is removed the coverage is flawless in its uniformity. There is no other oil or product that I can compare this to. I will never use anything else again. I have used it on pine, cherry, and cedar with equal results. Another plus is that the same formula is for both indoor and outdoor use. Hope this helps.

PCMLR · 10-11-2010, 12:34 PM

After responding to your post I later looked at the can and read a very interesting application for the product. I have never heard of this method for staining or sealing wood. The can lists "Wet Sanding Method" whereby you apply the oil and use an orbital sander with 400-600 grit wet/dry sand paper to create a "paste" that eliminates the need for a sanding sealer or paste filler.For your purposes I was thinking that you could work on one old and new piece at the same time and "comingle" the paste for a uniform result. You simply wipe it off and repeat the process until you achieve the desired shade. It is a real plus that the product permeates the lining of the wood's cellular structure, rather than sitting on top.

For the record, I would not use an electric sander but a sanding block, especially when working with previously sanded wood.

Ron6519 · 10-11-2010, 02:20 PM

I would not sand the shaker panels or the carcass sides as the veneers on a 4 year old cabinet will be very thin. If you blow through those, you will need to reveneer the surface.
Ron