Some Questions On Stair Case Skirt Boarding (how To Measure, Cut, Materials) - Carpentry - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Carpentry


Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-03-2009, 01:38 PM   #1
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 3
Rewards Points: 10

some questions on stair case skirt boarding (how to measure, cut, materials)


New to this forum, but have already gleaned some nice info. Planning on purchasing oak stair treads from HD or similar and pulling up carpet on my enclosed stair cases to lay down the treads. I currently have drywall skirting the existing stair case and would like to have skirting boards for a nice finish, durability and so I can paint white to match the risers.

Now my questions:

1) Anyone have a how-to on measuring, marking and cutting the skirt boards?

I found an article on ( that suggests using a level on the front of the riser to basically extrapolate a line onto the skirt board for each riser. Then use a square to make a line for the tread at 90 degrees.

It seems like this would produce a good fit for the riser, but the tread might be a off a bit if it's not exactly 90 degrees. But perhaps not an issue as the treads will but up against the skirt board when installed?

2) What material should I use for the skirt boards? Will paint with white semi-gloss latex.

3) A more general question about installing the treads: I plan on purchasing oak treads that already have a bullnose on them, so I just need to cut to size and glue down (no stairnose molding or anything). I've read other articles that say the existing plywood tread overhang (I can feel it overhang over the riser underneath the carpet) should be removed so the edge of the tread is flush with the riser. I assume this is so the hardwood tread has a nice finished joint with the riser, rather than having this extra plywood protrusion in between?

Could I instead cut some nice poplar risers and nail them over the existing riser so it's flush with the edge of the tread? In order for this to work I assume all the overhangs would need to be nearly exactly the same (e.g. 1"), and that the poplar would need to be the same thickness.

Perhaps it would be better to spend the time to cut the tread overhang and then finish it with a nice thin poplar riser?

Sorry for the long post. Appreciate the feedback!



dwichman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2009, 11:07 PM   #2
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 780
Rewards Points: 500

Here's a link someone else posted on another thread

See if it helps


hayewe farm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2009, 05:40 PM   #3
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Arkansas
Posts: 323
Rewards Points: 250

I was the OP for the referenced link. I think your correct. If you install the treads after you put the skirt board in place then the treads should cover any gaps from inaccurate cutting of the skirt board. You should know that the problem is getting the treads to fit exactly against the skirt board without leaving any gap between. You have to scribe each individual tread (on both sides if it's an enclosed staircase) because the walls are not perfectly flat and the skirt board will follow the wall. Hope that makes sense. My skirt boards were different as they were installed first and the risers and treads put in place from behind with wedges. That technique is shown in the link on page 9 and 19 I think.
Mike in Arkansas is offline   Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Top of Page | View New Posts


Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1