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Old 01-09-2012, 07:03 PM   #1
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skirt board installation


If i just have stringers--how do i make the top and bottom cuts of my skirtboards

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Old 01-09-2012, 07:11 PM   #2
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Are the two outside stringers held off from the wall with a 2 X 4 behind them for the propper spacing?

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Old 01-09-2012, 07:29 PM   #3
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I don't get the question.
Plumb cut on the bottom and a level cut on the top?
Just guessing.

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Old 01-09-2012, 07:52 PM   #4
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very true, not enough info given
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Old 01-09-2012, 08:15 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by CDNSr. View Post
If i just have stringers--how do i make the top and bottom cuts of my skirtboards
It really depends on the type of stairs you have, does your stairs have an open side or walls on both sides. What will the top of the skirt tie into or die into. Are you trying to cut the bottom or top of the skirt so the top of the skirt is even with your base.

If the walls need to be painted, you can lay the skirt off on the wall to make it easier to cut and figure. Take your framing square and set down on the spacer between the wall and stringer. Make a mark at 12" even if the 1X12 isn't but 11 1/4", at the top of the stairs and again at the bottom of the stairs. Pop a line all the way from the floor through the two marks on the wall up past the last step.

Now you can see where the top of the skirt needs to be cut. If you want the bottom cut to be even with your base mold, just lay a piece of base mold at the bottom on the floor and make a mark where the top of the base intersects with the line you popped for the top for the skirt. Make a mark there. That is where you will want to make a plumb cut so the base will butt into the skirt.

Just a note here, if you plan to install a trim on top of the skirt which looks like the trim on top of you base mold be sure to drop the skirt down to allow for the mold to butt your base and run on up the skirt smoothly, it will look like the molding on to of your base just continues on up the skirt. Or you can just plumb up on your skirt a hair past the last nosing of the bottom tread and butt the base into the skirt there.


If just a straight run with no tie ins or you aren't trying to make the top flush with your base, set the 1X12 (usually) on edge on the treads from top to bottom of the stairs. Have some one hold the 1X so it don't move at all. Plumb the skirt at the top and at the bottom. Make a mark. If there is a 2X4 spacer, like there should be against the wall, be sure to clean any trash out so the 1X will lay all the way to the bottom of the spacer. Once in place check to see how much you will need to cut off the bottom of the bottom of the skirt and make a level mark and cut as described above.

Lay skirt board back onto the spacer if you didn't measure, and see how much you need to cut off the top cut and make a mark and make a level mark there, cut and there ya are. Now if there is a landing or you have an open side all bets are off. I hope this is clear but more than likely it isn't.
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Old 01-09-2012, 08:32 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jiju1943

It really depends on the type of stairs you have, does your stairs have an open side or walls on both sides. What will the top of the skirt tie into or die into. Are you trying to cut the bottom or top of the skirt so the top of the skirt is even with your base.

If the walls need to be painted, you can lay the skirt off on the wall to make it easier to cut and figure. Take your framing square and set down on the spacer between the wall and stringer. Make a mark at 12" even if the 1X12 isn't but 11 1/4", at the top of the stairs and again at the bottom of the stairs. Pop a line all the way from the floor through the two marks on the wall up past the last step.

Now you can see where the top of the skirt needs to be cut. If you want the bottom cut to be even with your base mold, just lay a piece of base mold at the bottom on the floor and make a mark where the top of the base intersects with the line you popped for the top for the skirt. Make a mark there. That is where you will want to make a plumb cut so the base will butt into the skirt.

Just a note here, if you plan to install a trim on top of the skirt which looks like the trim on top of you base mold be sure to drop the skirt down to allow for the mold to butt your base and run on up the skirt smoothly, it will look like the molding on to of your base just continues on up the skirt. Or you can just plumb up on your skirt a hair past the last nosing of the bottom tread and butt the base into the skirt there.

If just a straight run with no tie ins or you aren't trying to make the top flush with your base, set the 1X12 (usually) on edge on the treads from top to bottom of the stairs. Have some one hold the 1X so it don't move at all. Plumb the skirt at the top and at the bottom. Make a mark. If there is a 2X4 spacer, like there should be against the wall, be sure to clean any trash out so the 1X will lay all the way to the bottom of the spacer. Once in place check to see how much you will need to cut off the bottom of the bottom of the skirt and make a level mark and cut as described above.

Lay skirt board back onto the spacer if you didn't measure, and see how much you need to cut off the top cut and make a mark and make a level mark there, cut and there ya are. Now if there is a landing or you have an open side all bets are off. I hope this is clear but more than likely it isn't.
It is nice of you to spend the time walking the op through this, but you would have to be a pretty good carpenter to keep up, IMO.
But kudos to you.

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Old 01-09-2012, 08:49 PM   #7
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I do not get to do this job often enough, my guys that work for me do it and there far better them me thank goodness so I cheat and rip a piece of 1/4 louon to 11 1/2" and make a template for the top and bottom cuts.
That way I only can mess up cheap wood when doing trial cuts.
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:38 PM   #8
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skirting isnt really a diy trim project. even after trimming close to 40 houses before i started trimming stairs it took me a few sets to get past the head scratching stage to know what to do without thinking . its mostly a matter of making reference lines on the wall with a chalk line first then simply scribing and transferring plumb and level lines
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:51 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodworkbykirk
skirting isnt really a diy trim project. even after trimming close to 40 houses before i started trimming stairs it took me a few sets to get past the head scratching stage to know what to do without thinking . its mostly a matter of making reference lines on the wall with a chalk line first then simply scribing and transferring plumb and level lines
And don't use red chalk. Paint will never cover it. It's permanent. Use blue.

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Old 01-10-2012, 07:56 PM   #10
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A handy tool to have for this job, or for cutting any trim for inside or outside corners and crown moulding is
http://www.starrett.com/industries/p...ter-cut-errors
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Old 01-10-2012, 10:29 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by titanoman View Post
It is nice of you to spend the time walking the op through this, but you would have to be a pretty good carpenter to keep up, IMO.
But kudos to you.

Sent from a Samsung Galaxy S2
Sorry bout that, I never have been good at explaining things very well.
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Old 01-11-2012, 09:58 PM   #12
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And don't use red chalk. Paint will never cover it. It's permanent. Use blue.

Sent from a Samsung Galaxy S2
it also bleeds through primer, orange also works in place of blue and shows up better in dim lit spaces
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Old 01-11-2012, 11:33 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by titanoman View Post
And don't use red chalk. Paint will never cover it. It's permanent. Use blue.

Sent from a Samsung Galaxy S2
You don't want to mark on the wall with a ball point pen either.

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