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Old 07-16-2009, 08:08 AM   #16
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Siding repair


II Weeks,

Thanks. I think I got what you mean; use a water resistant 1"x4" board for the corner's trim boards, but I don't know why the 3/8" shim. Are you saying to cut the siding all the way up to the roof the width of the shim board, then insert this long shim in the area you just cut out (using it as a nailing surface for the corner's trim board), and then nail the 1x4 water resistant trim board to it all the way up? Sorry, I'm not good a diagrams.

The siding is not a flat surface. If I just run the trim board up, I assume I'll have to caulk the gaps between the back of trim board and the siding's ridges.

The Trim around my windows are about as you describe. The edge of the siding laps over the window's black barrier paper and stops about 1/2" from the verticle side (h) of frame. Then they rabbeted a 1"x1/2" wide groove about 2" from the end of the siding the height (h) of the window, then inserted a 1"x 1/2"x(h) wood strip in that groove--which acts as the nailing surface for the window's verticle trim. There is no need to caulk (but you should a little) the seam between the two because you have the flat backside if the window trim nailed flat againts the front flat side if the wood strip. Is this about the same as you have suggested? I'm not real good a words either.

Thanks again.

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Old 07-16-2009, 08:15 AM   #17
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Siding repair


Thurman,

This novice lives in Redlands (So. Cal), California; hot and dry in the summer and mild and mostly dry in the winter. But, sometimes it rains like heck. We should have water issues with houses here--unless thry are constucted poorly or using methods they used on Victorian houses 100 years ago. Hardie board is heavy. Is that the same stuff as "Hardie Backer" board that you lay bathroom tile over?

Thanks
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Old 07-16-2009, 08:16 AM   #18
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Sorry, "shouldn't have issues........"
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Old 07-16-2009, 08:38 AM   #19
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Siding repair


4gy6-I cannot say for sure if the Hardie Board siding is the same material as the Hardie Board backer used for tile applications, it seems to look similar and cut similar, but as far as the actual composition, I really do not know. My experience with the Hardie Board siding has been good so far, as far as being able to cut it, nail it in place and paint it to suit the customer. Yes, this stuff is heavy, and if allowed to bow when picked up will break easily, that is why a helper is nice to have. I tend to take on small jobs with my "Household Handyman" business and seldom use any help. You learn how to pick up a full piece, put it in place without breaking it. In our area there are the Home Depot, Lowe's and Pro Build. They all carry either Hardie Board siding or a similar product under a different name. It depends on what the customer wants as far as smooth or simulated wood grain as to where I buy for each job. As I stated though, I firmly believe in priming before even starting any cutting or installation and caulking all joints, I bevel all adjoining siding edges and caulk to help prevent water intrusion. Some say I take too much time to do things like this, but I believe they make the job/product last longer. All of my exterior corner boards are PT also, primed before painting. Fortunately, I'm retired and do this work to stay busy and have my "boy toy" monies so I can spend all this extra time on a job. The job in question would be one that I would do if it were in my area and I had the chance to bid on it. Thanks, David

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