Siding Nails

Clutchcargo

I'm gearing up to reside my house with Hardiplank 4" exposure siding. I'll be blind nailing. I'm planning on using stainless nails, but what kind of nails?
Also, do I need a new nailer or will my framing nailer be adequate? It shoots down to 2" nails.
TIA

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AtlanticWBConst.

You should use an actual SIDING gun, not a framing nailer. They sink the heads differently. (Also: there is usually no nail-head sink adjustment on framing guns)

Hardiboard installation guide will have all your answers:

http://www.jameshardie.com/pdf/hardiplankinstall.pdf

(Be prepared to pay a ''pretty penny'' for stainless nails)

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NateHanson

I've heard of using roofing nailers for hardiplank, although I can't attest for that myself.

Clutchcargo

Thanks Atlantic,
What are you're thoughts on the Bostitch N66C? HD has it for $319-10% coupon + 5% tax or final cost of right around $300. I don't think I'll have much of a use for it afterward so I'll ebay it when I'm done.

For a 2" 6d nail the price is around $130/3600 from www.stainless-nails-brads-staples.com. I estimate I'll need around 5000 fasteners (2 boxes) at most.

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crecore

from my research the N66C is the best air nailer. It's the newer model that accepts smaller heads (not an issue in your case). But it's versatile, can be used on fencing, osb, roof sheathing, etc. wire or plastic joined.

I'm doing a rough cut cedar and mahagony siding job soon using ring shank stainless steel. With some research I found some nails other than Bostitch that had smaller heads and were much cheaper.

check the hardiboard recommendations, choose the nail, then work backward to the nailer.

crecore

let me rephrase that b4 any1 jumps down my throat about the N80 IMHO the N66C is the best siding gun.

Clutchcargo

So, do you like the N66C or not. Thanks for the gleaming recommendation.

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747

Thats alot of money just for one job. Ask atlantic what siding gun he has. He definately has a couple. Are you getting the hardi prepainted? I'm assuming you don't have a shear so you will need a masonary blade to cut that stuff. Make sure you wear a mask. Plan on going through a couple of blades. From what the guys say hardi we eat a blade up. Thats why most siders have a shear to cut it.

Clutchcargo

The nail gun I figure will end up costing me about $100 after I buy it, use it, and dump it on eBay.
I'm a little torn between using the prefinished or just primed. There's about $1000 difference between the two products. The primed is available off the shelf at the big box stores, while the prefinished is 2-3 week lead. Does anyone know if both sides of the plank are finished in the prefinished stock?

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AtlanticWBConst.

Only the fronts are finished. I have a box of hardi board samples. You should be able to get one at a reputable siding supplier.

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AtlanticWBConst.

Let me just say that siding guns are not inexpensive. We use Bostich N66C's and also the model that was it's precursor. Can't remember what we paid for the older guns.

(SIDE POINT: FWIW - For cedar siding on premium jobs, we actually prefer to ''hand-nail'', as it is the only way to control nail-placement and head-sink-depth 100%. All siding guns, by nature are not 100% reliable in terms of proper functioning/cycling, head sink, and nail placement-firing, etc ... add the fact that cedar boards are expensive. When face nailing cedar planks, guns can mar surfaces with just one missfire or oversink a few nail heads, requiring a board to be removed and then having to start a course all over = lost time and lost $)

Make sure that you read up on the hardiplank siding installation guide for nails and fasteners.

Here is some more information:

Consider "Bear Clips" for installation, spacing and venting:

http://www.bearclip.com/

Also, you should install "flashing" squares at the joints of boards, since they expand and contract. The link above has these. Their's are called "Bear Skins". You could also cut squares from roofing felt.

Cutting:

http://www.toolsofthetrade.net/artic...0&type=article

Installation video:

http://www.hgtvpro.com/hpro/pac_ctnt...&videoid=66953

Warning on Cement board dust (Silica Dust):

http://www.nichiha.com/pdf/tru0304061instsilica2.pdf

http://www.n-usa.com/pdf/NIC040907(2)MSDSWSERIES.pdf

We like this portable system hooked up to a sliding compound saw with correct cutting blade and dust masks worn (Dust is dangerous!):

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes

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Clutchcargo

Thanks Atlantic,
as always, a wealth of information.

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Clutchcargo

Unfortunately, most reputable siding suppliers only deal with licensed contractors. It's either HD or Lowes for me.

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NateHanson

Have you checked at the building supply yards around you? I never had trouble getting building supplies from lumber yards when I lived on the N. Shore, and up here in Maine all the lumber yards are 100% open to home-owners.

Maybe you're just referring to the dealers that just do things like siding or roofing materials, and I can understand them just dealing within the industry. But you shouldn't have trouble getting Hardiplank from a decent lumber yard. And they'll have more info, help, and advice for you than Home Crapot.

AtlanticWBConst.

I agree, Just make a phone call and find out.

Also, here is another "Low Dust" cutting option I ran across at a local suppy house:

http://www.abccatalog.com/store/view...uct=0629500286

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