Shop add-on

abtanner · 06-01-2006, 09:50 PM

Hi; I'm new. Adding an addition 16'x16'. Slab's finished. It'll have an 9'x7' garage door.Need advise with constructing the header. Will 2x10's (doubled) be adequate to span the studs at the door opening? Also what's the distance between the studs, to accomadate the door width?
TIA, Al.

**joasis** · 06-02-2006, 07:57 AM

A 9 wide garage door will have a rough opening of 9 feet, exactly. Doubled 2 x 10's are typical above garage doors. You need to "sandwich" 1/2 inch plywood or OSB to get the 3-1/2 thickness of the walls.

abtanner · 06-02-2006, 06:25 PM

Joasis; Thanks a bunch for the info. I'd of never thought of the 1/2" plywood 'sandwitch'. Neat solution.
We welders like to "tack" things in place and back-up and take a 'gander' at it to check the fit-up.
Am very greatful for ya help.
Al

Joe Carola · 06-02-2006, 07:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by abtanner

Joasis; Thanks a bunch for the info. I'd of never thought of the 1/2" plywood 'sandwitch'. Neat solution.
We welders like to "tack" things in place and back-up and take a 'gander' at it to check the fit-up.
Am very greatful for ya help.
Al

What will you use for garage jambs?

I've never seen an opening for a 9' door exactly 9' or any other opening the size of the door before. We always make the rough opening 3" bigger in width and 1-1/2" bigger in height for any size door to allow for 2x jambs sides and top and then on the inside we nail 2x4's to them and then the garage door companies bolt the tracks to them. For your rough opening it should be 9' 3" x 7' 1-1/2".

**joasis** · 06-02-2006, 09:25 PM

Everyone does it differntly Joe...I RO the garage door openings exact to door panel size and trim with 1X, giving the door panels 3/4 on each side to "jamb" with. If a commercial sized door, 2 inches over. I have seen OHD's jambed with 2X, and it works. I just prefer 1X trim...

Joe Carola · 06-02-2006, 10:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joasis

Everyone does it differntly Joe...I RO the garage door openings exact to door panel size and trim with 1X, giving the door panels 3/4 on each side to "jamb" with. If a commercial sized door, 2 inches over. I have seen OHD's jambed with 2X, and it works. I just prefer 1X trim...

What do they bolt the tracks to?

We always have 8" block above grade and then our 2x jambs go past them and then we nail 2x's to the jambs (we call them goal posts) and then they bolt the tracks to them.

The last addition I framed I also did the cedar siding and exterior trim I went over the jambs with 1x cedar for a finish. It works out nice that way with cedar siding. If the house gets vinyl siding then the 2x jambs just get wrapped with coil.

**joasis** · 06-03-2006, 07:06 AM

The door panels are exactly 9 feet, or 8 feet , or 16 feet...the tracks bolt or lag 2 inches or so from the RO. I see where you are going with what you guys do, our way is just a little different. When we frame for an OHD, we typically place 3 2X per side.

Joe Carola · 06-03-2006, 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joasis

The door panels are exactly 9 feet, or 8 feet , or 16 feet...the tracks bolt or lag 2 inches or so from the RO. I see where you are going with what you guys do, our way is just a little different. When we frame for an OHD, we typically place 3 2X per side.

Joasis,

What do you do to get past the inside of your block? If your walls are 2x4's or 2x6's and you have 8" or 12" block, where are you bolting your tracks to? The inside of the block isn't flush to your framing.

Here's a quick sketch of what we do.

**joasis** · 06-03-2006, 09:34 AM

Nice sketch...since we typically frame on slab, this isn't an issue for us...very few block walls like you depict in my area. If there is a stem at all, it is 6 inches wide, formed and poured, 4 to 6 inches high. The wall is then framed and faced with a 2X and the bottom track mount is attached above the stem...similar to what you do. The only differnce in our methods is the manner in which we trim the jambs from RO.

Joe Carola · 06-03-2006, 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joasis

Nice sketch...since we typically frame on slab, this isn't an issue for us...very few block walls like you depict in my area. If there is a stem at all, it is 6 inches wide, formed and poured, 4 to 6 inches high. The wall is then framed and faced with a 2X and the bottom track mount is attached above the stem...similar to what you do. The only differnce in our methods is the manner in which we trim the jambs from RO.

Joasis,

After my post I thought that's what you were going to say about working on slabs. Now I get it.

I drew that with SketchUp. Google has it to download for FREE!!

Check it out if your interested.

Itried to copy and paste the link but it wont let me do it here for some reason.

**joasis** · 06-03-2006, 12:50 PM

I have seen lots of posts from different framers about how things are done...area, experience, tradition..and on and on. There are book methods, old school methods, and what we find out that works. That is what makes these forums work is the sharing of information on different techniques and practices. Thanks for the insight Joe, I hope we didn't confuse the thread since this is the DIY instead of contractors forum. I will try to get the program..looks like it would be really useful.

abtanner · 06-03-2006, 08:55 PM

Hi;Joe Carola & Joasis,
I'm 'bout finished with the door opening. I gleaned a lot from your discusion. It's gunna be 'hell for stout', as I've double studed 'er and carefully cut and fit each member.
Thanks, you were a great help.
Al