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Old 12-22-2009, 03:28 PM   #1
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Setting up a saw for crown molding


I am all but finished with a cabinet style stand I built for my miter saw and have only to install the saw. It will primarily be used for cutting crown molding and baseboard. Should I set it up so that the saw's table is level with the wings or slightly above the surface of the wings?

Here is what I am talking about.


Last edited by Klawman; 12-22-2009 at 03:49 PM. Reason: Add photo
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Old 12-22-2009, 04:24 PM   #2
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Setting up a saw for crown molding


Set it level. You want the pieces to be properly supported so when the saw plunges through, the pieces won't come back like a hinge and pinch the blade.

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Old 12-22-2009, 04:53 PM   #3
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Setting up a saw for crown molding


boy I do like my hitachi stand, folds up into this compact 5' tall creature that i store in a corner. straps to my roof rack. thats a beautiful piece of work claw and as to your ? flat always flat
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Old 12-22-2009, 05:47 PM   #4
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Setting up a saw for crown molding


It will be flat at the point of the cut, as the saw's table is perfectly flat. I was just thinking that, as I can only set the wings so they are nearly flat, say within a 64th of the level of the table, it might be better to set it up so that the table is a 64th above the level of the wings. Perhaps even a bit closer. The plans call for planing strips of solid wood the saw rests upon so that the wings are level.

I was thinking of changing the plans, and mounting the saw on a piece of plywood suspended above the base of the stand with four bolts. Then I can fine tune the level of the cutting table by turning a support nut in or out on one or all four bolts.
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Old 12-23-2009, 06:14 AM   #5
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Setting up a saw for crown molding


Well--Hello again!

As said above--Get your extensions as flush as possible to the saws table.

You said in a previous thread that you bought a table saw--you can cut your saw risers with that ,I would think.

By the way--NICE TABLE!!!--MIKE--
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Old 12-23-2009, 06:18 AM   #6
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Setting up a saw for crown molding


I'm going to have to install marble in MY shop!!

Got to keep one step ahead of you new guys----------------------Ha Ha--MIKE--
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Old 12-23-2009, 06:48 AM   #7
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Setting up a saw for crown molding


Nice stand ! Consider adding a hooded backstop to catch and drop most of the saw dust and cut down on the clean up.
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Old 12-23-2009, 11:57 AM   #8
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Setting up a saw for crown molding


Hi, MIke. I am dense, but not that dense. I will figure out a way to set the saw's table and the wings level. I hadn't thought of using my table saw to cut risers. That should work. Right now I am thinking I may try to make things easy. A piece of 3/4" plywood and a 1/2" piece of mdf bring the saw's higth to slighltly over what I need. I can machine out some spaces about 1/2" larger than the saws four round feet, using a spade and a drill press. If that doesn't get them level, I can use some washers as shims.

You mean all shops don't have marble floors?

I am still practicing the coping and getting pretty good with my 20 year old craftsman jig saw. (But after what I spent on the wife for Xmas, I think she will let me go for a new Bosch.)

My table saw is a piece of garbage ala Craftsman; the cheapest 10" bench saw they were selling 20 years ago, (the kind that accessories do not fit due to Craftsman's weird miter saw slots) but after banging it about a few times it cuts fairly well. I just have to carefully check the fence each cut. My next large purchase will probably be a decent saw.

Happy Holdidays to All!
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Old 12-23-2009, 12:01 PM   #9
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Setting up a saw for crown molding


Quote:
Originally Posted by 47_47 View Post
Nice stand ! Consider adding a hooded backstop to catch and drop most of the saw dust and cut down on the clean up.
That is a good idea. Even with a shop vac plugged in, some kind of folding cloth catcher would be a good idea. Especially if I try to use it in the house, which I think isn't going to happen.
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Old 12-30-2009, 09:29 PM   #10
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Setting up a saw for crown molding


Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
Well--Hello again!

As said above--Get your extensions as flush as possible to the saws table.

You said in a previous thread that you bought a table saw--you can cut your saw risers with that ,I would think.

By the way--NICE TABLE!!!--MIKE--

As usual, your advice is on the money. I finally got around to cutting the risers for mounting the saw. I miscalculated when I bought them and they needed to their thicness milled a bout a sixteenth. I placed them on their 3/4" edge set the fence up to take off about a half a kerf and it did the trick.

But I didn't buy a table saw. I used my falling apart 19 year old craftsman bottom of the line 19" bench table saw. I am thinking about investing in something a little nicer but not too expensive, such as a a Ridgid. I would love to pick up a used saw, but tools are the last thing someone parts with.
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Old 12-31-2009, 06:06 AM   #11
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Setting up a saw for crown molding


Glad to hear from you!

A table saw(even an old tired one ) is a must . I wish you were closer--I've got two older table saws I want to get out of the shop.

When you do replace your old junker --get one with the biggest table you can fit into your shop.

As you have already learned--Bigger is safer.(easier to use and more accurate)

A few years ago I finally bought a big cabinet saw(Grizzly) 8 feet wide and 7 feet deep.
What a joy! Safely and easily cuts full sheets of ply without a helper.

---MIKE--
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Old 12-31-2009, 12:26 PM   #12
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Setting up a saw for crown molding


Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
Glad to hear from you!

A table saw(even an old tired one ) is a must . I wish you were closer--I've got two older table saws I want to get out of the shop.

When you do replace your old junker --get one with the biggest table you can fit into your shop.

As you have already learned--Bigger is safer.(easier to use and more accurate)

A few years ago I finally bought a big cabinet saw(Grizzly) 8 feet wide and 7 feet deep.
What a joy! Safely and easily cuts full sheets of ply without a helper.

---MIKE--

That is why I cut most of my plywood with a circular saw and guide while it is laid out on sawhorses. It is time consuming but safer than trying to cut it on a little bench saw.

Making those dangerous cuts to mill the runners down (risers, runners, the strips of wood the saw is acutally mounted on), only reminded me of one of the reasons I want a new saw. The Sears, even when new, won't accept standard feather boards and jigs as it doesn't have a standard size "T" miter slot. I should have had side and top pressure applied to that board with featherboards. As it is, I have to make a tall auxiliary gence to clamp a featherboard to and also clamp home made feather board to the table to apply side pressure. Lousy little fence, proprietary miter slot, small table, arbor won't even take a standard dado.

I also like the "European style" anti kick back knives on the newer saws. The one injury I ever had was due to kick back from a similar piece of wood to what I cut the other day and I almost lost a couple of digigits of a finger. (This time I always kept fence ward pressure on the board so as not to allow it to flop against the side of the blade"
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Old 12-31-2009, 04:38 PM   #13
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Setting up a saw for crown molding


Glad to hear that you are doing your best to work safely. There are a lot of nice saws available now.

A good fence and a large table are the two most important features. That monster that I have is a pure joy. The people at Grizzly are so helpful --kind of makes me want to buy something from them just to get the attention.

Have a good New Year--Thanks--MIKE---
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Old 12-31-2009, 04:50 PM   #14
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Setting up a saw for crown molding


Happy New Year to you, too, Mike.

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