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-   -   Saw blade recommendations for ripping prefinished wood (http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/saw-blade-recommendations-ripping-prefinished-wood-66077/)

benjamincall 03-05-2010 04:34 PM

Saw blade recommendations for ripping prefinished wood
 
I'm looking for a blade that will perform flawless, splinter-free rips on prefinished hardwood planks, so I don't have to try to touch up the finish on the edges (they won't be hidden by base molding).

Since this wood will be used for flooring, I don't care about burn marks.

Would an 80-tooth cross-cut blade like this Forrest Chopmaster do the trick if I feed the piece slowly?: http://www.amazon.com/Forrest-CM1080...7827815&sr=8-3

I was thinking I could use the blade on both on my 12" miter saw and on my table saw.

I'm new to finish work, so your input will be invaluable.

DangerMouse 03-05-2010 04:41 PM

The more teeth, the cleaner your cut!
Feed the pieces slowly, yup.

DM

benjamincall 03-05-2010 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DangerMouse (Post 410179)
The more teeth, the cleaner your cut!
Feed the pieces slowly, yup.

DM

I guess I'll have to get the 10" version for my table saw. Do you think using that same 10" blade on a 12" miter saw will cause me any trouble?

DangerMouse 03-05-2010 05:03 PM

I'd just put it on my table saw and run the pieces that way.

DM

benjamincall 03-05-2010 05:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DangerMouse (Post 410189)
I'd just put it on my table saw and run the pieces that way.

DM

For ripping, I will definitely keep it on the table saw. A blade that nice deserves to go on a miter saw after I'm done with the flooring project. How well does a 10" blade work on a 12" miter saw?

DangerMouse 03-05-2010 05:47 PM

Personally, I wouldn't do it.
Use a 12" blade on a 12" saw, and a 10" on a 10", etc.

DM

tpolk 03-05-2010 06:03 PM

sometimes a blade is rated for max rpm's and a saw rated for a 12" might have problems with a 10" being over torgued. a friend of mine put the wrong rated wheel on his grinder and it came apart while using, hit him in the head , killed instantly

DangerMouse 03-05-2010 06:24 PM

what he said....

DM

Jay123 03-05-2010 10:24 PM

Since you're obviously interested in a high quality blade (:thumbsup:), give forrest a call and they'll hook you up with what you need.

http://www.forrestblades.com/

Great blades! :yes:

Klawman 03-07-2010 02:21 PM

Calling forrest is a good idea. I have read there can be a problem with what is called climb when a blade designed for a table saw is used on a miter saw. It has to do with the angle of the teeth. Not sure if the problem is limited to sliders or non-sliders. Just a DIYer.

Klawman 03-07-2010 02:34 PM

Calling forrest is a good idea. I have read there can be a problem with what is called climb when a blade designed for a table saw is used on a miter saw. It has to do with the angle of the teeth. Not sure if the problem is limited to sliders or non-sliders. I think you asked about ripping and not crosscutting. Are these guys saying you can rip hardwood just fine with a crosscut blade, if you aren't worried about burn marks? Just a DIYer with a non slider and looking for a decent blade or two for a new table saw, but mine is a hybrid with a small motor which makes a difference.

firehawkmph 03-07-2010 02:59 PM

I too would say to call Forrest. I have several of their blades and they all work well for their intended purposes. I don't think you will need an 80 tooth blade for ripping however. The rip blade they sell for the table saw only has 20 teeth if my memory serves me right. I'll have to take a look at it when I go out to the shop in a bit. It seems like you would want more teeth, but I think the fact that you are going with the grain instead of across it with a rip cut is why it works like it does.
Mike Hawkins:)

Klawman 03-07-2010 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by firehawkmph (Post 411096)
I too would say to call Forrest. I have several of their blades and they all work well for their intended purposes. I don't think you will need an 80 tooth blade for ripping however. The rip blade they sell for the table saw only has 20 teeth if my memory serves me right. I'll have to take a look at it when I go out to the shop in a bit. It seems like you would want more teeth, but I think the fact that you are going with the grain instead of across it with a rip cut is why it works like it does.
Mike Hawkins:)

Hey Ohio. I called Forrest to ask about a combination blade for a low power saw and was then am still considering a WWII which is a 40T ATB. The guy suggested if I would be ripping much thicker wood, considering a 30T WWII. That MAY be a good solution, IF the contractor is talking about both ripping and crosscutting the flooring. Since he also has a miter saw, I assume he uses that for crosscuts and may want to go with a dedicated rip blade like you suggest. I don't recall if it is a 20 or 24T. Also, if he he has a lighter duty motor, as I believe do many more portable saws, he may want to consider a thin kerf blade. I would The guys at Forrest are the ones to ask. Just noticed he specifically asked about the chopmaster, the dedicated miter saw blade. If you call Forrest, I believe they sell more blades than shown on their web site.

firehawkmph 03-07-2010 08:28 PM

Klawman,
I checked this afternoon to see what I had. I do have the WWII 10" rip blade with 20 teeth. And I have the chopmaster 10" 80 tooth blade for my mitersaw. The rip blade does a good job, leaves a smooth cut, but is intended for ripping only. The chopmaster works well for crosscutting.
Mike Hawkins:)

Klawman 03-07-2010 08:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by firehawkmph (Post 411247)
Klawman,
I checked this afternoon to see what I had. I do have the WWII 10" rip blade with 20 teeth. And I have the chopmaster 10" 80 tooth blade for my mitersaw. The rip blade does a good job, leaves a smooth cut, but is intended for ripping only. The chopmaster works well for crosscutting.
Mike Hawkins:)

Sounds good. Am still to cs to pull the pin on a 40 tooth wood worker II for my little weekend warrior table saw. I still have the blade that came on my dewalt miter, but should probably get something like the chopmaster if I want to do any stain grade crown moulding. You may remember me asking about that on another thread.


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