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G.P. 11-14-2005 03:10 PM

Sagging roof - framing question
Hello all, new to this site.

I have a relative who wants me to help him to fix a sagging roof. Basically the situation - It's a stick-built roof that he plans on stripping and re-roofing. one half of the house (ranch) is fine (an addition) the other has the sagging ridge. This side has rafters but no ceiling joists. My suggestion was to re-frame it with joists, but he has a vaulted ceiling with beadboard attached directly to the rafters and doesnt want to destroy this. Would it be a bad idea to scab on 2X lumber to the existing rafters on the correct pitch, or would this add too much weight and it would settle again anyway? Thanks in advance!

K2eoj 11-14-2005 10:04 PM

Your walls are probably pushing out also. I think you need to pull the walls together and raise the ridge at the same time and then get some type of decorative and structrual members to hold the walls together or get another ridge beam under what is there to hold the ridge in place. Either way it sounds like you need an engineer or a very knowledgeable roof framer to consult with on site. There are a bunch of threads on this subject on this site and Contractor talk. If you read them all you might get a good general feel for what needs to be done. I wouldn't try scabing anything on. it would make more of a mess and be harder to fix. If I lived close i would come and try to help you. HS>

JustaFramer 11-14-2005 11:16 PM

Oh I love it when H.O. say I don't want to destroy this or that. Fact of the matter is the rigde is not structural enought to handle the load.

Pulling the walls in and putting up collar ties is one easy option. No need to lose the vault effect but no peak. With the ties you may need to put one on eachside of the rafter and bolt. This would need to be spec'd out with all variables.

G.P. 11-15-2005 11:18 AM

Thanks for the replies guys. a little more info - don't know if this will impact your advice or not.

This is a tiny house, 15x32 or so. It's also a summer vacation home that is used 3 months/year on leased land. The original 15x16 structure is at least 50 years old and is a prime example of "six-pack" construction. This is where the sagging ridge is.

Due mainly to the leased land issue (the land-owner's future intentions with the property are unclear) it would be risky to spend significant $$. So getting an engineer there (or even a building permit for that matter) is unlikely.

In any other situation, for anyone else, it would be rafters & joists, or trusses, or I would pass on the job.

As for me, I have about 3 years experience working as a finish carpenter. I have done a couple of frames, but that was years ago as a kid. I have done minor framing, adding partition walls and such in recent years on remodel jobs but that's about all.

K2eoj 11-15-2005 01:09 PM

Oh yea I think that would change my view. Being so small it would probably be easier to fix and stabalize. If it were my place i would think about a couple of turn buckles and cables to the outside walls and jacking up on the ridge as you pull in on the turnbuckles. I bet it wouldn't take much. Then I would think about painting the buckles and cables black and maybe leaving them there. I'd probably make some type of plate connector to secure the cables to the outside walls. It'd probably last longer than your lease. <P>
Sounds like a great little getaway. <P>
I keep a stock of 2-3 ft. turnbuckles for structural repairs and could probably part with a couple if you were in a pinch. ($20 to $30 ea.) I'm thinking they would cost quite a bit more than that.HS.

nailbanger138 11-19-2005 01:48 AM

there is no fixing this CORRECTLY without changing the bead board somewhat.

G.P. 12-01-2005 03:16 PM

thanks for the replies. this isnt something that will likely happen before spring time, I will keep your advice in mind.

joeronimo 12-26-2005 04:32 AM

this may sound like a lot of work..but really isn't.
If the lot is mostly yard on the non-gabled might be able to drive stakes into the ground and wedging 2x4 or 6's...14'or 16' should do. Put one end of the 2x under the soffit or facia, whichever the case, then wherever your board hits the ground, move in between 6 and 12 inches and sledge in a wooden stake. Drive it in good too. Remove the 2x from under the soffit and butt the other end behind the stake. Angle the top of the board back under the soffit and start pulling the same time sliding it back toward it's original 90 degree angle with the stake. You may need to do this 2 or three times, at the same time, on either side of the house. Don't try to get it all at once if it proves difficult. On the inside, run a 2x, from gable end to gable end, about 2' down from the peak, on either side of the ceiling. T-leg these off the floor, opposing exterior braces. If you're gonna re-roof, cut about 12" of sheeting away from the ridge. Remove sheeting and old ridge board....providing there was one...and replace it with a Micro-lam or Para-lamb (both of these are laminated wood products and are structural). Para-lams are often used when support is needed in finished areas. Can be stained or painted, whereas micro's can't. Micro's are generally 1 7/8" thick and come in many different widths and lengths. Para's vary in widths and lengths. Neither is cheap but should be the only major expense aside from the bracing material. Leg them up solid at the gable ends...from the ground up. This rout...may only sacrifice a little beadbord, if any, at the very top of the ceiling...but a stained beam always looks good with a ceiling fan!!!!

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