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-   -   Rotten Window frame/sill (http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/rotten-window-frame-sill-54535/)

brennanfuchs 10-06-2009 12:23 PM

Rotten Window frame/sill
 
1 Attachment(s)
Gentlemen, looking to know if I would be able to simply replace the bottom piece of wood which has some serious rot on it?

The window does not open it has a very large sill which is fine it is just the bottom piece which sits dirctly against the window which has rot.

Would i be using nails/screws, what type of wood? what type of caulk? Would the wood need to be weater proofed (sealed) before it is primed painted?

Any help would be great I'm a pretty handy guy an feel like this should be a simple job but am hoping to avoid any surprises.

THANKS

Thurman 10-06-2009 09:16 PM

I do these a lot, so maybe I can help. The picture is helpful but vague.
"The window does not open it has a very large sill which is fine it is just the bottom piece which sits dirctly against the window which has rot." 1) Why doesn't the window open? Is it because of paint, which can be dealt with and the window opened, even a little. 2) IF the window sill is fine, and does not need to be repaired/replaced, the this gets more difficult. 3) IF it is the actual bottom piece of the window that is rotted, and this appears to be a double-pane window, the bottom piece of the window will need to be removed and replaced. Since the only mill shop in my town closed July 01, I have to make my own now, and I do not have a cabinet shop. These pieces are not available at big box stores, to my knowledge. These pieces are not easy to remove, as different window manufacturers use different methods of attaching the rails and stiles together, and to do this without breaking the double-pane glass is tricky. So-that said: IF you are a pretty handy guy, and you have a table saw, a good router and router table, a really good sense of woodworking, and take your time, you could do this. Draw the old piece out first, make sure you can match the details of the designs cut into the wood, measure three times, cut carefully, and you're on your way. I don't use PT wood, just good primer and better paint. Good Luck, David P.S.-Scrape the paint off of the wood at the bottom corners, look to see if there are any attaching screws, nails, metal or wood pins that join the rail and stile.

Just Bill 10-07-2009 07:10 AM

Big box stores and lumberyards have premade sills, but check your slope and profile, they may be different. It is not a simple job to replace the sill, but care needs to be taken so the rest of the frame is not damaged. Everything is nailed or stapled together. A good sawzall with nail cutting blade is a must. The sill is usually not nailed to the house framing, so the only fastening point are at the side frames.

brennanfuchs 10-07-2009 08:00 AM

3 Attachment(s)
Thanks, to both. PT wood? I can rhyme off 1000 IT acronyms but PT wood does not register.

I do have a saws all also it looks like the portion which is most rotten sits on a larger sill. The window does not open because its just that a large double pane peice of glass.

I will include a couple more photos to clarify what you are looking at. I live in a pretty rural areas with one major hardware store I'm going to go on a limb and say they dont have pre made sills. this is a very large pane. So if I need to make the cut myself what type of wood should I use? cedar?

Here are a couple more pics. These shoudl make what your seeing much clearer.

mradam 10-08-2009 08:15 PM

PT = Pressure Treated

-used for applications when wood will be in contact with the elements.

Just Bill 10-09-2009 07:01 AM

No PT wood. It tends to expand/contract more than untreated wood and is harder to keep finished. Als tends to crack, check.

But, from the looks of your pics, you have other damage that is hidden. If this was to be done right, the window would come out and drywall on the inside removed to repair the damage. And since that is the fixed sash sill that is rotted, it will be difficult to fix.

Thurman 10-09-2009 12:17 PM

The new pictures tell a new story. Bill is correct in that you probably will have damage to the hidden areas behind the interior wall below the window. This needs to be addressed. From what I see in the last photo: It appears there is 3/4" x 3" (or close) trim added after the window was installed and this is where the rot started and led into the window sill. At this point, I would say this is not a DIY job, unless you have skills beyond the average homeowner. One question to answer, and you may need to take out the interior wall for more info, is whether to remove the entire window set and rebuild up from the framing. Good Luck, David

user1007 10-09-2009 12:57 PM

I have used these products for these kinds of situations with great results. They are a bit pricey though. Sometimes it is the only way to fix historic frames without elaborate millwork.

http://www.abatron.com/cms/buildinga...intenance.html

mradam 10-09-2009 05:39 PM

Quote:

PT = Pressure Treated

-used for applications when wood will be in contact with the elements.
Sorry. I wasn't saying to use PT, just explaining what it was.

brennanfuchs 10-09-2009 07:03 PM

The damage is on the exterior you figure there will be that much damage on the interior?

The frame from in interoir to exterior (ie interor window sill is almost a foot long before the window is present so the window is almost a foot awat from the interior wall. (no softness or damage is present on the interior so far). I can see if there was some possible damage to insulation but unless this was like that for a long time (it may have been would it not be rather difficult for the interior to be affected?)

I'm trying to avoid replacing these windows as we drained the bank accounts to purchase and they are appox 9 feet by 7 feet.

Would not replacing the runner along the bottom re-caulk secure paint not be good enough?


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