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matt151617 10-16-2011 04:30 PM

Replacing Sliding Door Rollers
 
I'm trying to take my sliding glass door off the track to replace the rollers. One side doesn't seem to roll too smooth and I can't even see the rollers on the other side. The door is almost impossible to open because of this. Problem is, I can't figure out how to get it off the track to even get to the rollers. I removed the top trim piece, but the right side is too high due to the rollers on that side. Looking behind the wooden plugs, I can see the hardware of the rollers but there's no screw to adjust them (picture 3). Any ideas?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...s/IMG_2255.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...s/IMG_3272.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...s/IMG_7406.jpg

loneframer 10-16-2011 04:50 PM

That looks like it may be an Andersen Frenchwood door. If so, look up.

There is a wooden stop molding that is screwed straight up into the head jamb, with roughly 7 screws. Remove all the screws except one. In your case, the one on the far left. Now, slide the door to almost fully open. At this point you should be able to take the stop molding, pull it outward and up far enough to tip the door past it. The Andersen doors must be set on the roller track first, then the top stop molding installed.

You may just have to reset the roller on the track. They can jump off if not adjusted properly. If it is truly damaged, provided it's an Andersen, replacements are readily available, either online or through a distributor.

josall 10-16-2011 04:55 PM

Have you tried lifting the door straight up and pulling the bottom of the door towards you. This should let you remove the door so you can get to the rollers.

loneframer 10-16-2011 04:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by josall (Post 749958)
Have you tried lifting the door straight up and pulling the bottom of the door towards you. This should let you remove the door so you can get to the rollers.

That might work, but the rollers would have to be adjusted as high into the door as they will go to allow enough travel to do so, then properly readjusted to seat properly to the side jamb, as well as to get the strike plate to align properly for the lock to work.

As long as the trim doesn't interfere with the top stop molding, it's really about a 2 minute job with a drill/driver to remove, tip the door out and reset the rollers on the track.

matt151617 10-16-2011 05:12 PM

I did take the trim strip off, where that white line is on the top of the door is where it used to be. I can get half the door out but without being able to adjust the rollers, I can't drop the other half down enough to clear the trim.

loneframer 10-16-2011 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by matt151617 (Post 749968)
I did take the trim strip off, where that white line is on the top of the door is where it used to be. I can get half the door out but without being able to adjust the rollers, I can't drop the other half down enough to clear the trim.

If that's the case, the trim is improperly installed. The trim should be applied no lower than 1/8" below the edge of the jamb itself, barely covering the line where the stop meets the head jamb.

You can try adjusting the rollers to the point of lowest adjustment and lift the roller back onto the track. Sometimes you can get a small pry bar under the roller and lift it high enough, it's just harder that way, IMO.

matt151617 10-16-2011 07:43 PM

Any idea how I can adjust the rollers up and down? There doesn't appear to be any way to adjust them up and down.

loneframer 10-16-2011 08:47 PM

In your last pic, you have the adjustment hole. A straight bladed screw driver with a medium width tip will do the job. I can't recall which direction raises and which lowers the door, but I think clockwise will raise it.

As you turn the adjustment, you will hear a click, this sets the roller in each position. Depending on it's current position, you may have 4-5 clicks to completely lower it.

It might be best to try the roller that is properly set first, just to verify the proper direction to turn it.

Have someone hold the door in position while you do this, just in case it decides to free itself up and fall on you.:wink:

The panels are quite heavy, so have some extra muscle available to prevent injury. Or you could do it like I have for the last 25 years and impress your friends.:laughing:

matt151617 10-20-2011 07:49 PM

I tired a few different size screwdrivers, and can't get the roller to budge. It just doesn't want to turn either direction.

kwikfishron 10-20-2011 08:13 PM

On the tough ones I slide a thin piece of metal (I usually use a flashing scrap but you could use a “thin” putty knife) and slide it under the panel "and then" towards the roller. The metal should slide right under the roller allowing you to remove the panel. You’re approaching it from the left or right and not trying to pry anything up straight on.

Ron6519 10-22-2011 10:11 PM

With the top stop molding removed, the door should literally fall into the room.
The door adjusts by putting a screwdriver on each side of the door and lowering or raising it. The out of focus picture looks like the screw is stripped.
Spray some silicone lubrication along the top of the door and frame.
Grab each side of the door and give it a pull. It should pop right out.
If not, remove the top molding and any shims over the door frame. Raise the top frame and pull out the door.


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